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1960 R1 Mini (U.s)


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#46 roadhouse

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 08:13 PM

 

 

 

I'm putting together a list of all the parts I need to prep the R1 motor to be used in a car application. Here is what I have so far:

 

-R1 ECU (ordered)

-R1 wiring harness (have)

-R6 speedo (have)

-Replacement clutch kit (planning on using an OEM kit if I can find one, might as well make sure everything is fresh while the motor is out)

-Adding extra OEM clutch diaphragm spring (ordered, going to try this option first as opposed to buying a Barnett spring conversion)

-Exup eliminator

-Graves smog block off plugs (ordered)

-PC3 power commander (have)

-Pipercross PX600 air filter (any better options than this? My engine did not come with a stock airbox, are there any sensors I need from it?)

-Throttle bodies (ordered, my engine did not come with them)

-Oil pan baffle (have)

-Clutch cable (ordered)

 

I'm sure there is something I'm missing? I know I will need an ignition switch. Are most people using the R1 switch or an aftermarket option? 

why you are ordering an R1 Ecu? Sell your PC and get the polestar ecu from Lynx together with a ready made loom for it.

 

Clutch: I strongly recommand to use the Barnett spring conversion with the stiff 55lbs springs. The OEM standard diaprgram springs (or anything uprated from yamaha ) and endplate are hardly capable of the 180kg motorbike, a 500kg car is by far to much for them. They will slip through and ruin your new clutch plates in a very short time. My clutch has only 3000km on so I leave OEM clutch plates but in combination with the barnett spring conversion kit as Jon from lynx recommended. The OEM plates will wear out faster but they are for free :-)

If all the clutch is worn anyhow take the whole barnett clutch kit and save yourself frustration and money with the OEM one and take the full barnett clutch kit incl. spring conversion.

Aribox: the stock air box has an air-pressure sensor fitted, you would need this too. You also need the plastic air trumpets that are fitted in the air box and the opening form of the trumpets are calculated precisely for this engine, so don't mess with these as you will loose significant power. So best to get bottom part of standard air box with the trumpets and sensor mounted and tear it apart. You can also use the air trumpets from Yamaha motorsport which have 2 different length to support middle and high end power but they are rare and very expensive.

Airfilter: Simplest was is to stick BMC foam air filter directly on the end of each trumpet. Look at lynx green R1 miglia and you will see what I mean.

 

fuel pump: I need to look into this too. Most use facet pumps as the r1 needs 2,7bar till 3 bar fuel pressure on high revs. If you plan to use MPI pump it must be in absolute perfect condition as it is capable of only 2,7bar max. And this brings you to the question which fuel tank to use as you need a return pipe....MPI one is suitable here.

 

 

-Planning on just using all the R1 electronics and having Lynx modify the R1 wiring harness that I have. The Polestar looks like an awesome setup but I'm happy to go down the R1 ECU path and there are plenty of BEC users that have had success with it, Duds100 being one of them. I know we had chatted a little about it in your build thread and you broke down some prices to where the Polestar would be cheaper but in my case I was able to find many of the needed parts for much cheaper than your proposed prices. And I like the idea of using the R1 speedo (or in my case the R6 speedo cause I'm a cheap bastard lol)

 

-Jealous of your low mileage engine! Definitely just run the stock clutch out until it blows. I have no idea what kind of mileage is on this motor so we'll see what the clutch looks like when I open it up. I've been reading up on clutch options on other BEC and R1 sites and everyone seems to favor OEM clutch plates? I don't know... lots of opinions out there. Same deal on the clutch spring conversion. Either way... I think we can agree that the stock clutch spring alone won't be enough. For the low cost of the diaphragm spring it may be worth a shot to see how well it can hold the clutch. We'll see. I may change my mind. 

 

-Thank you for the info on the airbox. I was under the impresson I needed a few sensors off the stocker so I'll need to source one of those. Easy to find. Good info on the trumpets, too. I will check out the filters on the Miglia...

 

-Like you, I need to look into fuel pumps more and figure out which direction to go. We will be using an aftermarket fuel cell which may changes things a bit. 

 

Thank you for the detailed response. Much appreciated. 

 

you are welcome.

I am a cheap bastard too :highfive:

Planned the polestar route but will also go OEM route with rapid bike.

Reasons: 

1) figured out that I have a workshop with a rolling rod around the corner who is also familiar with Rapid Bike modules and can map the R1 in the mini properly on the rod, so a huge problem solved. 

2) in paralell I got a complete Rapid Bike 3 with quick shifter (clutch less upshifts), an R1 5 PW speedo and rapid bike pro software for a huge bargain.

3) 1+2 solves problems and give me the full modifiable electronic setup for under 250bucks,said I am a cheap as too...

 

Rapid Bike can modify

- ignition 

- fuel

- timing

- changes to throttle (adapt gas pedal line to BEC)

- Rev limit

- 2 maps parallel and on-the-fly switchable (e.g. dry and wet setup for track)

Additionally I got the the full master software and quick shifter option with it, means clutch less upshifts which is perfect for my tracktool. 

Try to get this package with power commander, costs you 4 digits sum and you won't get everything. Negative not best support from italian manufacturer (don't care as I have the full software to programme it and someone how knows the rapide bike by heart) and some tuner say chips in it are a bit slower then power commander but both are definitely fast enough for a 12 years old ECU.

I have the "old" model which called Rapide Bike 3, this is now between the Rapide Bike evo (http://www.dimsport....g/rapidbike-evo) and racing module.

 

 

Sounds like you got a nice deal on the setup  :proud: I just did some quick research on it and looks like some people have had issues with it, but like you said you have someone who knows the system well so shouldn't be an issue in your case. Best of luck with it and let us know how it turns out. 



#47 LukeH

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 09:02 PM

If you haven't already seen them, these two websites are great source of info;
 
http://www.robcollin...sign/index.html
 
http://www.joe250.co...inirebuild.html
 
hopefully the site owners won't mind me posting links to them. 
 
Keep up the good work on the project. Looking good so far.

 
Thanks man. And thanks for posting up those links. I've read through the Joe250 build multiple times and just made it over to the other one a few days back. It's been awhile since Joe updated his build... I want to see the finished product!!

I emailed him a couple of weeks ago and he kindly supplied me with a copy of his Visio drawing. He said he intends to get his project sorted this spring so watch this space...

#48 roadhouse

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 06:48 PM

 

 

If you haven't already seen them, these two websites are great source of info;
 
http://www.robcollin...sign/index.html
 
http://www.joe250.co...inirebuild.html
 
hopefully the site owners won't mind me posting links to them. 
 
Keep up the good work on the project. Looking good so far.

 
Thanks man. And thanks for posting up those links. I've read through the Joe250 build multiple times and just made it over to the other one a few days back. It's been awhile since Joe updated his build... I want to see the finished product!!

I emailed him a couple of weeks ago and he kindly supplied me with a copy of his Visio drawing. He said he intends to get his project sorted this spring so watch this space...

 

 Great news!! Sounds like a nice guy, too



#49 roadhouse

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 09:13 PM

Pretty excited about this find. Mk1 Austin Mini steering wheel in really good condition. On it's way to me from across the pond :) 

 

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I also ordered front and rear brake setups for the car. We'll be using 4 pots (metro turbo) in the front and drums w/spacers in the rear. I have the next few days off work so I'm hoping I can make some progress on the suspension and figure out what I still need to wrap that up.


Edited by roadhouse, 05 March 2015 - 10:14 PM.


#50 roadhouse

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 02:58 AM

So I was bolting in the rear camber bracket to the subframe today and the nut/fitting broke off inside the boxed section of the subrame  >_<  Not happy... I guess I just need to cut out a little section and weld a nut back on. Any other suggestions? 

 

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So after the mishap with the subframe, I decided to focus my efforts on the motor today. I picked up a stock R1 airbox off ebay the other day and went about pulling the sensor and trumpets. An easy task I could handle lol

 

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I went ahead and pulled the clutch to see what kind of shape it was in. Most of the discs had some burning or discoloration so I trashed them. New clutch kit and extra diaphragm spring plate on order. 

 

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Installed a CNC oil pan baffle that I bought from John Rarity on ebay. Looks really good! 

 

Before:

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After:

862F534B-0AC5-44BC-B5AB-6DF2D9FB63C1_zps

 

In the process of dumping all the AIS junk. Still working on removing the damn plugs... I shall be victorious tomorrow! Also, the header studs on this motor look terrible. Need to order a replacement set. 

 

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#51 iSonic

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 02:15 PM

IMG_20150228_141759.jpg

 

Mine came of just fine. Used 'penetrating oil' (don't know if I translated it correct) and a Locking pliers to twist en pull..  Had them off in about 20 minutes.



#52 roadhouse

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 05:14 PM

IMG_20150228_141759.jpg

 

Mine came of just fine. Used 'penetrating oil' (don't know if I translated it correct) and a Locking pliers to twist en pull..  Had them off in about 20 minutes.

 

Thanks. I was able to get them out rather quickly yesterday after I changed my approach :) 



#53 roadhouse

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 02:50 PM

Full metro turbo brake conversion showed up today. Calipers, rotors, track pads ss lines, cv joints, hubs, etc. Now we just need a car so we can start assembling! Actually, I can start assembling most of the subframe/suspension pieces without the body. I've learned to not get myself excited about completing a task because as soon as I set out to complete something, I realize I'm always missing a few little parts. One of these days I'll have everything together beforehand but I guess these are the perils of building a car from scratch. 

 

These are pretty

5FDBF2B3-B66C-47AF-8D06-7F9F80B96A18_zps

 

The body shop still has shell and we are getting closer to paint. They had some issues with their pipe bender so the roll bar has been delayed a few weeks while they wait on the part. Minor set back. It's now been 11 months since we purchased the shell and we are getting anxious to get it back home. 

 

Yesterday I picked up a new OEM clutch kit (plates and fibers), an extra clutch spring plate, clutch cover gasket, oil pan gasket, stator gasket, and some fluid so I can put the engine/clutch back together.Slow progress but we are moving forward. 



#54 LukeH

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 04:09 PM

Nice brakes!

What are you doing with the clutch? Will you be using the Lynx cable/slave mechanism or changing for a Wilwood or similar slave? I think I'll be doing the latter.

#55 roadhouse

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Posted 13 March 2015 - 05:51 PM

My original plan was to use the Lynx slave and cable mechanism but I haven't put a whole lot of thought into it as of yet...



#56 iSonic

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Posted 17 March 2015 - 11:43 AM

 

 

Mine came of just fine. Used 'penetrating oil' (don't know if I translated it correct) and a Locking pliers to twist en pull..  Had them off in about 20 minutes.

 

Thanks. I was able to get them out rather quickly yesterday after I changed my approach :) 

 

What did you use to block off the holes?



#57 roadhouse

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Posted 17 March 2015 - 03:03 PM

Graves Motorsport block off plugs



#58 iSonic

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 01:53 PM

Did you get them in correctly? I found them to be really soft.....



#59 roadhouse

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 11:04 PM

Yeah I thought they were pretty soft, too. I tapped them until they wouldn't go in any further and it marred the ends of them a little. 



#60 roadhouse

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Posted 06 April 2015 - 05:45 PM

Update: 

 

Body shop is up and running with their new pipe bender and the car is set to get a roll bar this week  :shifty:






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