12 replies to this topic

[Gunmetalmini]

Just fitted the supercharger and drove it home about 40 miles,there's definitely more power there but not as much as hoped,now then I'm quite clueless with engines and not run a s/c on a classic before so could someone please advise,firstly it's running a standard su carb and quite a tired k&n filter I'm pretty sure by changing these ill get better results instantly?the second thing was although it ran very well and smooth there was quite a lot of heat coming into the mini,is this normal?the temp gauge for the engine ran pretty spot on all the way just slightly creeping over half way on a couple of occasions,any help advice would be very much appreciated and also what carb and air filter to use that would fit down the end of the bonnet.

[Ethel]

Carbs should match the power output/airflow of the engine, you should have an idea of that from charger and its drive ratio. Generally, you'll need less ignition advance but a rolling road session would be well advised.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

What SU carb have you got? definitely get the car on a RR before you drive it any more.

[Gunmetalmini]

Is it not good to drive it before having it on RR,all I know is the carb is standard from new and the car is a mini Tahiti 1275

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Is it not good to drive it before having it on RR,all I know is the carb is standard from new and the car is a mini Tahiti 1275

Probably a HIF44 (which is correct).If it was me I wouldn't drive it. The timing might be way out. Also may be incorrect needle etc. Might have detonation, if its getting hot or the fueling is out. IMO

[Gunmetalmini]

Should it not really generate heat into the cabin?,it was set up by a more than competant mechanic but from what I've read these do need a more specialist tuning?

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Should it not really generate heat into the cabin?,it was set up by a more than competant mechanic but from what I've read these do need a more specialist tuning?

Manifold could be getting v hot

[Gunmetalmini]

Yeah I'd say that's where it's coming from as the engine itself and sc didn't feel overly hot,so is the manifold getting excessively hot something that happens when having a sc or is that cause it's not running right?sorry for all the questions

[BritishRacingGreen]

Running a forced induction engine without getting it set up proper on a rolling road is asking for trouble in my opinion.

Yes, it may actually be ok to drive as it is but you won't know that for sure until you check. I don't know about you but if I'd just built a new engine I'd rather pay 2-300 for a RR session that have the thought in the back of my mind that it could melt itself any second. Have a search around as to what detonation can do to heads and pistons on a forced induction engine. It isn't pretty. There are plenty of FI mini friends RRs around the country that will be able to help.

Apologies for the essay but I'm just trying to save you money in the long run!

[Gunmetalmini]

Thanks mate I appreciate the advice and it sounds good advice!:)

[Gr4h4m]

Try ab garage in hawarden , Ade know his stuff and can setup supercharged minis.

Don't drive it until it's setup.

[Gunmetalmini]

So do I not need to think about changing the carb,is a standard su good enough?

[Gr4h4m]

The carb will work as long as it's in good condition, so all of the parts the wear are ok or replaced, things like

Throttle disc
Throttle spindle
Rubber seals like the spindle seals and choke seals if a hif.
The jet
The piston and chamber are within tolerance.
Float chamber needle and seat.

All of the above can be fixed with a kit from burlen.


You no doubt will need stronger throttle return springs.

Stronger dash pot piston spring or maybe even two and a custom needle.

No doubt some timing either mapping of adjusting. IMO you shouldn't run a forced induction engine with a dizzy, mapped ignition is a must if you want to keep your pistons from growing holes....