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Fuel Injection For Vmaxscart Kit


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#1 Noble Savage

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Posted 31 October 2014 - 09:45 PM

Hello all,

 

I have recently spent a great deal of time, effort and money on a new engine and supercharger kit from Vmaxscart. Engine is originally a 1275 from a Metro. Car is LHD. Spec is as follows:

  • A+ Block bored to 1293
  • Head skimmed, rebuilt with fresh parts
  • Vmaxscart EVO140 kit with water cooled manifold
  • ARP studs and bolts
  • HIF44 with Vmaxscart supplied needle
  • Standard Metro electronic distributor
  • Omega +20 forged pistons 18CC
  • Standard connecting rods
  • Swiftune SW5 camshaft
  • Swiftune duplex timing kit
  • New turbo oil pump
  • No decompression plate (not required according to Stuart)
  • Maniflow manifold
  • RC40 exhaust
  • Guessworks rebuilt gearbox
  • X-pin differential
  • 2.76:1 FD
  • Standard helical gearset
  • Economy primary and input drop gears (0.9333:1)
  • Minispares 2 core radiator
  • 88 degree thermostat
  • Facet fast road solid state pump (SS502, 4-5.5 PSI)
  • Valvoline VR1 racing 20W50 oil

Car is intended to be as modern and quite as possible mainly for highways, thus using these gear ratios and camshaft etc. This is also why it is supercharged, soundproof has electric windows etc. Meant to be a daily car with extra puff. 

 

As it stands I have a couple of issues with the car:

1. It overheats when idle and under load. I believe this is due to the old 8 lb rad cap it has that I will be replacing soon with a 15 lb type. Also it hasn't been tuned on a rolling road yet so obviously timing and fueling are out.

2. Supercharger pully and belt contact the clutch master cylinder under light or more acceleration. This I will be solving by fitting an engine steady that attaches to the water pump bolts instead of the thermostat housing (had to be removed due to the supercharger).

 

Also I will be fitting a Filter King fuel pressure regulator for the Facet pump (I understand current pump pressure is excessive) as well as a mechanical oil temp gauge that reads from the sump plug to see if oil temp is causing overheating.

I'm considering fitting a Cinquecento front mounted radiator. Not because of the cooling issues, but because it would cancel the mechanical fan lowering noise levels even further. Obviously this would aid cooling as well.

 

I have read on the forums that forced induction requires different ignition properties than on naturally aspirated engines and that fuel injection improves pretty much every aspect of the engine.

Right now the engine feels weak when comparing to its performance before the project, Maybe 80 HP. It also feels "cammy" in low RPM and idles erratically, which is completely against the point of the camshaft I have chosen and the purpose of the car. I have checked the cam timing and it's spot on.

I know this is due to ignition and fueling, which is what I'm trying to solve.

Unfortunately where I live (Israel) there are 2 rolling roads and both I believe know nothing about carburetors and distributors, so going fuel injection seems like a logical step forward.

 

Questions:

Which system should I opt for? I have asked Stuart about this and he has said that he no longer works on minis and that fuel injection projects based on Emerald systems used to cost about £2500. This is way over my budget.

What are my other options? Preferably a system that uses O2 sensors to tune itself?

So far I have found Megasquirt from trigger-wheels.com, the Specialist components engine management kits, and the Emerald K6. Which is best for my needs?

Which parts do I need to complete the conversion?

 

Thanks very much!

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#2 mini13

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 10:54 AM

I think probably the SC kit, its going to be then most plug and play, and is around £1000 iirc,

 

that ever system you get it on the rollers, SC tuned a freinds car ( with the SC system on a K1100 head) not sure on the cost, but it was all sorted in a couple of hours, so money well spent



#3 Phil-R

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 12:38 PM

If you don't have confidence with you're local rolling roads, buy a wideband O2 controller and sensor (one that has a display) and a cheap strobe timing light. They'll take the guess work out of diagnosing problems and should both help you get to the bottom of your overheating problem. If you do eventually decide to move to fuel injection, they'll both still be useful.

 

I was unaware you could get an 8psi cap, but if the coolant is boiling with either cap, then it's some way over 100C. You should make sure your cooling system is working as it should, so check the thermostat actually opens at 88 degrees (even if it's a new one) and thoroughly flush the system if you have any doubts about it's condition. 



#4 Noble Savage

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Posted 03 November 2014 - 04:38 PM

Thanks for the replies!

Any other thoughts?

I'm a real novice at this, so any help would be appreciated.



#5 BaileyPerformance

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Posted 03 November 2014 - 05:46 PM

Hi,

we would love to help.

we have experience in all things supercharged and turbocharged, including A series 

 

My advise would be (to keep cost down) run the SC wet, so replace the SU with a throttle body and one large (1200-1600cc) injector. Install a 36-1 trigger wheel and coilpack. All controlled by Megasquirt 2 ECU.

Fuel pump would need to be replaced with a high pressure injection type, maybe from the later injected Mini.

The cost for this would be around £2000.

 

You could stick with the SU and just fit Megajolt to control the ignition only, we could then setup both the SU and the Megajolt on the rolling road. Cost for this £1000 total.

 

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#6 michaelb

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Posted 28 December 2014 - 06:23 AM

Hi,

I have similar setup to yours and I am using a C-ARA4441 , Aluminium 2 Core Radiator from Mini Spares, with 82C Thermostat.

I have no issues with over heating.

I also have mega jolt and HIF-44 carb but thinking about fuel injection just to try and resolve the fuel puddling in the inlet manifold while the car is idling.

The mega jolt does enable you to adjust the timing much more accurate then a distributor.






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