691 replies to this topic

[alchall]

 

 

Apart from the cam and timing gear, it looks standard.

 

Were the journals drilled as standard? for some reason I thought they were not.

 

 

Mine are, how else are they fed with oil?

 

 

Good point well made, obvious now I think about it! 

[johnR]

I believe one hole is standard, 'cross drilling' a second hole in each is a mod

[Steve220]

I believe one hole is standard, 'cross drilling' a second hole in each is a mod

 

This is true. However a lot of people get confused by the phrase.

[alchall]

 

I believe one hole is standard, 'cross drilling' a second hole in each is a mod

 

This is true. However a lot of people get confused by the phrase.

 

 

Probably the reason for my mistaken understanding too, anyway, definitely seems the crank is standard, SC have seen my photo's and have confirmed it's all good so it'll be on it's way to them in the not too distant future.... 

[minimissions]

This build has just got ever better, you will have one very sorted car at the end of this so hats off to you, I think this is an engine most people dream of.

 

I cant wait to see it come together.

[alchall]

This build has just got ever better, you will have one very sorted car at the end of this so hats off to you, I think this is an engine most people dream of.

 

I cant wait to see it come together.

 

I've been on and off deciding on whether to go down this route but realised I needed to make a final decision one way or the other before getting the car in for painting as some modification will be necessary, SC were really helpful and with the deal they offered me the additional cost of this over getting the most useable performance with a modified A series head was low enough to make my final decision fairly straight forward.

 

I can't wait to see it come together either, a long road ahead I suspect to make it happen though 

[alchall]

A bit of progress on the transmission this weekend, started cleaning some bits and bobs up, couldn't take the box apart as I'm missing a couple of large sockets needed but they're on the way so hopefully it will be in pieces and ready for a clean next weekend.

 

I did however manage to build up my x-pin diff, the hardest job being removal of the bearing from the crown wheel, took every technique I could find on the internet to finally shift it, a combination of drifts, crow bars, welder and grinder were required!

 

I think it's fair to say the old diff was well worn, the pin is toast...

 

 

As I think is the housing....

 

 

Output shafts seem ok though, there's sign of wear but it looks worse in the photo than it really is and it feels smooth to the touch, and this was the worse of the two...

 

 

The diff itself was pretty straightforward to build using the instructions provided and it all runs nice and smoothly and much tighter than the old one, I just now need to fully torque up the crown wheel bolts and fit the new bearings, again lacking the required sockets brought this to an end, no 1/2 inch drive imperial sockets and my larger torque wrench is 1/2 inch....

 

 

 

 

 

 

[johnR]

What are you working on - the largest nappy ever made?!! Nice shiny diff, I've been wondering whether to replace mine with something similar, but may just fit a competition pin for now. 

[alchall]

What are you working on - the largest nappy ever made?!! Nice shiny diff, I've been wondering whether to replace mine with something similar, but may just fit a competition pin for now. 

 

Haha it's an old towel I put down to my workbench while I had a load of old dirty and oily machinery out on it.

 

I needed the extra strength that the x-pin offers due to the extra power (or more importantly torque) I'll be putting through it.

[alchall]

Further gearbox progress and one slightly expensive mistake!

 

All completely stripped and cleaned ready to re-build...

 

 

First gear needle roller bearing is split so I need to order a new one of these before I get too much further....

 

 

Primary gear bush has some marking on it, I think it is probably not too bad, question to appear in the appropriate section!

 

 

 

2nd and 3rd gear installed, decided to get these done so the spring and plungers were not going to get lost! need to build the synchro's next, I got new springs and balls as they were cheap but probably didn't need them in reality.

 

So onto my mistake, I have given the gearbox case, transfer case etc. a thorough clean as I am getting them vapour blasted so they'll be nice and sparkly clean, I decided that now was the time together the two bearing races out of the crank case, not an easy job! Anyway, I got one out by heating with a blow torch and bashing the case on a lump of timber as per the little video on the Guessworks web site but the other wasn't coming out, in trying to give it a pull with a bearing puller I managed to punch the centre down hard and cracked the case, so it's now scrap and I'll need to order a replacement 

 

 

[alchall]

Gearbox case back from Fastline Coatings in Preston who did a fantastic job of vapour blasting, looks as good as new (probably better as I'll soon find out when I get the new transfer case that I cracked)...

 

Shiny....

 

[72hump]

Hi, just been reading through your build, great work by the way, been thinking of starting a build thread but gone to far now, and can't be arsed typing it all out. I noticed you have gone for the Specialist Components 16v head conversion, if you have any questions about it, let me know and I will try and answer them. I don't know what front subby you have but if your wanting it without a bulge, I would look at getting a auto subby, if you not been told so far, if you want to run with the normal one here's what I did to my one to get the clearance.

Edited by 72hump, 30 November 2017 - 07:53 PM.

[alchall]

Hi, just been reading through your build, great work by the way, been thinking of starting a build thread but gone to far now, and can't be arsed typing it all out. I noticed you have gone for the Specialist Components 16v head conversion, if you have any questions about it, let me know and I will try and answer them. I don't know what front subby you have but if your wanting it without a bulge, I would look at getting a auto subby, if you not been told so far, if you want to run with the normal one here's what I did to my one to get the clearance.image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

 

Thanks, I may well be taking you up on that offer before long, should be getting my engine back from SC next week!

 

Your bonnet bulge looks very neat, how did you go about it (suspect it's beyond my capability!) I could live with something like that to be honest, the guys at SC said every car is different so it's difficult to say how much bonnet modification might be required, which seems true looking around at various other builds, got a manual late model subframe in mine...

 

Looks like on the underside you've taken out pretty much the whole centre part of the bracing and created some new bracing in a square to keep things rigid?

[72hump]

Hi, just been reading through your build, great work by the way, been thinking of starting a build thread but gone to far now, and can't be arsed typing it all out. I noticed you have gone for the Specialist Components 16v head conversion, if you have any questions about it, let me know and I will try and answer them. I don't know what front subby you have but if your wanting it without a bulge, I would look at getting a auto subby, if you not been told so far, if you want to run with the normal one here's what I did to my one to get the clearance.image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

 
Thanks, I may well be taking you up on that offer before long, should be getting my engine back from SC next week!
 
Your bonnet bulge looks very neat, how did you go about it (suspect it's beyond my capability!) I could live with something like that to be honest, the guys at SC said every car is different so it's difficult to say how much bonnet modification might be required, which seems true looking around at various other builds, got a manual late model subframe in mine...
 
Looks like on the underside you've taken out pretty much the whole centre part of the bracing and created some new bracing in a square to keep things rigid?

Hi, the original bonnet cross member were cut out, and a frame welded in to stop the bonnet twisting. I made it from cutting 20mm box section in half, then cutting slits ever 50mm, so I could form it to the profile of the bonnet, then welding it in. I've had to use aero catches on mine, as I had to cut the original bonnet release catch out, to clear my filter. The bonnet bulge I made by forming the ends over 30mm tube, then making a corner piece with panel beating hammers, I then cut the bonnet and welded it in.

[alchall]

 

 

Hi, just been reading through your build, great work by the way, been thinking of starting a build thread but gone to far now, and can't be arsed typing it all out. I noticed you have gone for the Specialist Components 16v head conversion, if you have any questions about it, let me know and I will try and answer them. I don't know what front subby you have but if your wanting it without a bulge, I would look at getting a auto subby, if you not been told so far, if you want to run with the normal one here's what I did to my one to get the clearance.image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

 
Thanks, I may well be taking you up on that offer before long, should be getting my engine back from SC next week!
 
Your bonnet bulge looks very neat, how did you go about it (suspect it's beyond my capability!) I could live with something like that to be honest, the guys at SC said every car is different so it's difficult to say how much bonnet modification might be required, which seems true looking around at various other builds, got a manual late model subframe in mine...
 
Looks like on the underside you've taken out pretty much the whole centre part of the bracing and created some new bracing in a square to keep things rigid?

Hi, the original bonnet cross member were cut out, and a frame welded in to stop the bonnet twisting. I made it from cutting 20mm box section in half, then cutting slits ever 50mm, so I could form it to the profile of the bonnet, then welding it in. I've had to use aero catches on mine, as I had to cut the original bonnet release catch out, to clear my filter. The bonnet bulge I made by forming the ends over 30mm tube, then making a corner piece with panel beating hammers, I then cut the bonnet and welded it in.image.jpegimage.jpeg

 

That's a really nice job you did of that, gives me some inspiration....