Well done on the cam timing. It is a real pain, but you get much quicker at it. Fingers crossed though you will not need to do it again. Trouble I had was when I tensioned the belt tensioner, the crank moved ever so slightly. What I learned to do was to set the the crank some degrees before TDC, know that when I tensioned the tensioner it would intern turn the crank to TDC. I marked the tooth on the flywheel with tipex, which was in line with the opening for the starter. I did this when the engine was in the middle of its dwell position any TDC. Made it much easier to find TDC the numerous other times i needed to.
Also bought some 2.5mm threaded bar. you are right on not being trick to set the dial gauge into position. I am happy to say that yours looks exactly like how I did it.
Crank sensor - looks good!
I think the belt is to close to the water pump pulley.
I re-read the SC guide and spotted that it said 0.8mm - 1mm for the crank sensor so may tweak it out a bit.
Looking carefully at the belt it's up against the ring on the idler pulley so it certainly isn't likely to crash against it but I may try and encourage the belt backwards, probably need to release the tension to do this, not sure if that will affect timing though :-/
Damn its tight around the belt end! I also agree that its too close. Iv not yet built a 16v a series but have a massive amount of experience with 16v 4efte starlet engine building. Belts can travel across the cam pullys a few mm when under load. Id try and get some more clearence if its possible, any chance you can put some spacers under it?
Other than that im super envious of the engine, it looks great dude!
Thanks! spacers would be a good idea but alternator water and crank pulleys are all perfectly aligned at the moment, anyway, as above I think it's already in worst place position forwards, will have to give this more thought once I've encouraged the belt back a bit.
Engine looks amazing! - very jealous
I have had both an 8v and 16v head sitting around for a little while so have been following your build with interest. Cam tolerances look like a massive pain and having seen the insides of the heads I can see why (although 8v has a little more room for obvious reasons). Is there anything that you have come across that you were surprised by/werent aware of once you started putting the block and head together? I ask as I am likely to go down the same route as you with getting SC to do the machining/prep and I put it together.
I'm not sure there's been any huge surprises, mainly because I'd spent quite a lot of time researching before hand, some of it is reasonably straightforward, what you will find though if you have the SC guide that it really is just a guide, while there's some very useful and specific info in there there's also quite a bit it doesn't tell you, however, the guys at SC are quick to respond and happy to help when you have questions.
Also note that while the kit that SC sell is very comprehensive it's certainly not complete, there's lots of other bits and bobs you'll have to source yourself and solution's you'll have to work out for your specific build.
The most time consuming and tricky single thing as far as the conversion is concerned has been cam timing, other parts of the build have been tricky but I'd have had them anyway even if I'd gone for a straight forward build.
That is literally a work of art! Love it!
Bet you cant wait to hear it run?
Thanks, it does look good, the mrs has suggested it looks too good to hide away in the engine bay
Gonna be a little while before it runs, got to get it in the shell, do the mods, get the shell painted then build it back up again, it's going to be a long wait!