14 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

Front I could buy off the shelf but I think I would need to mod the drop links....

 

rear looks like it will be a self build as no rear subframe and non standard hub spacing.

 

So what you use? solid or hollow?

 

I am thinking hollow and blades for the rear but not worked anything out yet so as I am feeling lazy who has done what and with what?

 

PS track car (sprint/hill climb)

[phil hill]

I made a rear bar to replace a broken MiniSpares one - no problem with the MS bar as such, but my diligent and persistent lack of maintenance caused the joints to seize up and break a blade off the bar.  I used a solid 12mm (1/2") bar and 3mm blades, and "green" pipe clamps to hold the bar to the subframe like the KAD bar does.

 

Took it off the car two years ago and now I can't find the drop links or pipe clamps...........

 

I did have a roll-bar calculation tool at one time, comparing stiffness of solid vs hollow etc.   I could see if I could find it again it you're interested.

 

Phil.

 

Edited to add : See if you can find pictures of some Miglia's, they use all sorts of arrangements.  Most seem to be mounted in the boot on a hard point such as a rear turret strut "brace" with long drop-links through the floor onto either the damper bolt or some arrangement on the rear brake backplate.

Edited by phil hill, 17 November 2014 - 04:34 PM.

[nicklouse]

Location will be rear subframe mounts or directly on the beam frame.

The tool would be good. Even though I am sure the info is in one of the many books I have, which happen to be about 650 miles away.

Just wanting to get some early infos so I can get a picture in my head before putting something else in a place that might cause package issues......

In fact for packaging I might just use some reinforcing rod.......


The other issue is mounting to the rear arms..... Might have to get Migliacars to take some pics of the Metro as I never did and can't remember how the drop link mounted.

[rally515]

Hi there Nick,

 

I'm a member on the Metro Power Forum and recently came across a show winning rover metro that had a custom made rear ARB on, after sifting through the 50 or so pages I came across the section about the rear ARB and how he made it.

 

The guy had use hollow CDS tubing as not to have any points of weakness along the bar and then welded the blades on the end and if I remember correctly he used poly drop links you can buy for the metros online.

 

Cliff

[nicklouse]

Ohhh googles metro power forum

[nicklouse]

Is that forum alive?

Still waiting for activation. But found the guy on there who made the brackets. But still not heard anything back from him.

But at least I know how they look if I have to make some up.

[summs116]

Endaf at Owens fabrication makes any sort of roll bar you need

[nicklouse]

Sure he does. And one day I might ask him to make something for me.

But that is not what I asked.

;)

[summs116]

I'm using a hollow tube type mounted in the boot on the roll cage between the rear top shock mounts. Blades with holes in and links through the floor on to a bracket that I made onto the bolts that holds the back plate on

[fastcarl]

Nick, I also have a  excel thing that allows  me to compare stiffness of tube /bar,

 

 

 

carl

[nicklouse]

Carl comparing ain't a problem. Material, well I couls always start with what Mini xxxxxx (insert any second part ) state they use and what thicknesses they offer. Effective length and arm length can be estimated and I could do a very good job of replicating what they have to offer to fit my oddball set up mounted where I want.

But is that what others have done or have people found that they were lacking and went up a thickness or...

One reason to go with bolt on blades just swapping out the bar is easy and no issues with getting stuff bent.


Mmmmm

[fastcarl]

Ok Nick   well you have  the same  ability as I do  as I used it  so I could  make a bar of comparative stiffness  but in lighter material , are you talking about the actual physical job of making/fabricating,?

 

you really need to read the race and rally car source book by you know who  to be able  to calculate what is needed for your application, something I wont do  as I will simply make an new one each time until I am happy, which I will never be.

 

 

carl

[nicklouse]

Yep have that. And many others. But they are about 600 miles away at the moment.

Really what I am doing is taking what myself and Alan discussed 13 years ago. Shame it has taken me such a long time to get around to it.

So like I said it is more of a what did you use post so them I can plug in the info and see what comes out with how mine might be and then adjust ......

I even have a CD with someone's final year project where they worked it all out just for the rear.....

If I trust his workings is another matter.

But to be honest what I think I will be going for will be an over stiff bar as. Wheel droop is something I want to remove.

But let's see what info comes forth.

[summs116]

The best option is to build a few different spec bars/tubes and go testing until u find a good set up that works for you and the rest of the front end set up as every set up and driving styles different
I know it doesn't answer your question but it's the only proper way of setting you own car up

Edited by summs116, 21 November 2014 - 10:50 PM.

[nicklouse]

Sure is but as you know track time ain't cheap.

And the only base info to go on is as I have said what the Mini shops are selling.

If that is what people are actually using then life is easy just make mine to do the same and use the adjustability to dial it in.

But if no one is using that in Motorsport then I will be building scrap well it won't be to far off the rest of the car ;)

And unfortunatly the retail ones will not fit even with modding.

No biggie.