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More Rust - Rear Quarter


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#1 finch661

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 12:23 PM

So it seems that just as i get the front wing, flitch and a-panel welded, i noticed three bubbles on the rear quarter, one at the bottom by the rear bin, one at the top of the wheel arch and one where the rear panel meets the back panel/valance. bit of poking found a hole in the rear bin, the top of the wheel arch seems solid, and put a hole at the back  -SIGH - was hoping to patch it up, but looks like it would need a fair bit of work (and filler). looks like it has had a repair section welded in some time ago, and is full of filler else where. The car isnt going anywhere and i am not in a rush. I am thinking a new rear quarter repair panel, and possibly a wheel arch?

 

20141124_211642_zpsaimn8jdg.jpg

 

20141124_211614_zps2kx9whlw.jpg

 

In terms of removing the quarter  - drill out spot welds along the window frame, along the seam, along the sill/wheel arch seam?

 



#2 Ben_O

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 01:25 PM

I think a new Quarter is the best way forwards with this.

 

Yup, you need to drill the spot welds down the rear seam (although it is easier to grind up the quarter panel side of the seam through the spot welds with a 4mm cutting disc in the grinder as there are so many spot welds and they are very close together) then the ones behind the bottom of the window seal, down the shut line where it sot welds to the B post, along the sill and round the arch.

 

You may find it easier to grind most of the spot welds out when removing the quarter panel due to how close together they are.

 

Don'y forget theta the quarter panel needs cutting at the B post and C post, do the cut as close to the swage line as you can to allow plenty of room for trimming when it comes to cutting the new panel in.

 

Ben



#3 finch661

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 02:13 PM

I think a new Quarter is the best way forwards with this.

 

Yup, you need to drill the spot welds down the rear seam (although it is easier to grind up the quarter panel side of the seam through the spot welds with a 4mm cutting disc in the grinder as there are so many spot welds and they are very close together) then the ones behind the bottom of the window seal, down the shut line where it sot welds to the B post, along the sill and round the arch.

 

You may find it easier to grind most of the spot welds out when removing the quarter panel due to how close together they are.

 

Don'y forget theta the quarter panel needs cutting at the B post and C post, do the cut as close to the swage line as you can to allow plenty of room for trimming when it comes to cutting the new panel in.

 

Ben

saving me again ben!! I would rather see a repair that would last a good 5-10 years, rather than a quick fix (repairing a lot of "quick fixes" on the mini). Would i need to brace the car when removing the panel?



#4 Ben_O

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 02:18 PM

 

saving me again ben!! I would rather see a repair that would last a good 5-10 years, rather than a quick fix (repairing a lot of "quick fixes" on the mini). Would i need to brace the car when removing the panel?

 

No bracing would be required if you are just removing the quarter panel.

 

It would pay to check the waist rail which is the panel that runs behind the bottom window lip on the quarter panel for rust in the seam. If the waist rail needs replacing, i would replace it first as you will have the quarter panel in place still to line the waist rail up to.

 

When i replace my arch tub, i will cut the old one out and replace it before i remove the old quarter panel. That way i will have the arch lip of the quarter panel as another reference point to line the arch tun up to.

 

Ben 



#5 finch661

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 02:23 PM

i might have to replace the arch tub as well, as it doesnt look that healthy inside. so best replace that then the rear quarter



#6 Ben_O

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 02:37 PM

i might have to replace the arch tub as well, as it doesnt look that healthy inside. so best replace that then the rear quarter

That's what i would do. That way, you have the arch lip on the quarter, the rear subframe brace, the rear bulkhead and the back flange of the companion bin to line it all up with. There is far less chance of it going in the wrong place that way.

 

Lots of people remove the quarter panel and then the tub and then fit the tub followed by the quarter with great resultsso it is fine to do it that way too but my way is just personal preference.

 

Ben



#7 sonikk4

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 03:40 PM

With all of the quarter panel off it gives you great access for other hard to reach items like the arch front close out panels and of course if you so desire any repairs inside the companion bin.

Once the quarter is off you will see exactly what needs to be done and you can plan from there.

#8 Ben_O

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 07:25 PM

Neil is right, i should have explained myself better  >_<

 

What i failed to mention is that I cut the bottom 8 inches of my quarter panel off leaving the arch section and bulk of the panel in place. This allows good access into the inner sill, stiffener, and closing panel but leaves the arch in place to line the tub too.

 

Like i said though, it s perfectly fine to remove the quarter panel complete first, the way i described is just my personal preference

 

Ben



#9 finch661

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 01:27 PM

Neil is right, i should have explained myself better  >_<

 

What i failed to mention is that I cut the bottom 8 inches of my quarter panel off leaving the arch section and bulk of the panel in place. This allows good access into the inner sill, stiffener, and closing panel but leaves the arch in place to line the tub too.

 

Like i said though, it s perfectly fine to remove the quarter panel complete first, the way i described is just my personal preference

 

Ben

 

 

With all of the quarter panel off it gives you great access for other hard to reach items like the arch front close out panels and of course if you so desire any repairs inside the companion bin.

Once the quarter is off you will see exactly what needs to be done and you can plan from there.

Thanks guys, i think i will have a look tonight and if i have time remove the panel (dreading whats behind it) :( Managed to find a guide on the panel replacement on here (Sonikk) and in the minimag!



#10 finch661

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:29 PM

right i have removed the rear quarter; initially it wasnt as bad as i thought it was, the bin looks ok (i was dreading this)

20141128_164449_zps9rabtmkx.jpg

 

wheel arch looks iffy

20141128_164454_zpsa30bw14n.jpg

 

Sigh

20141128_170357_zpss0jwv5ih.jpg

nothing but fibre glass and filler (oh and rust)

I have no idea why this plate was welded in?

20141128_164508_zpsoqft8h8r.jpg

 

So it looks like a new archtop, rear arch closing panel and a quarter panel? how do i remove the arch?



#11 sonikk4

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:32 PM

The arch is spot welded in place and there is a lot of them, i will post up a picture in a mo.



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:35 PM

IMG_2224_zpsd64646b2.jpg

 

64272cec-517d-4770-bd3b-183bf8477add_zps

 

that should give you an idea of where all of the spot welds are



#13 finch661

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:42 PM

cheers sonikk, is it best to remove the whole arch to replace the upper part?

#14 sonikk4

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:44 PM

Looking at the damage i would replace the whole thing.



#15 finch661

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Posted 30 November 2014 - 09:55 PM

ah ok, wont tell the wife how much this is adding up to! does the subframe have to come out?




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