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Head Torque Setting


Best Answer Spider , 29 November 2014 - 08:37 PM

65 lb-ft for cylinder head nuts sounds really high. Is this for ARP studs or the Minispares ones?

 

I'm sure the ARP studs should be well capable of taking this, but not so sure how well the block will cope...

 

The area of the block next to the studs tends to get distorted / pulled up when engine is used hard. Using a very high torque setting on the studs could make this worse.

 

Yes;-

 

"EN24 Nickel Chrome moly steel studs, Competition head stud kit (11 studs, nuts & washers.) 4 long and 7 short.

This special kit was developed to replace the increasingly inconsistent standard items. The studs are manufactured in selected hi-grade steel and produced to exacting specifications. These studs do not stretch, so they pull the head down, not the thread up, this vastly increases head gasket life, even on high compression engines. Special thick washers, countersunk on one side, help clamping capability and reduce thread bottoming of the nuts. Note that even replacing the head bolt with a stud, only torque that stud to the factory recommended spec(25 ft/lbs), the other studs can be torqued to 65ft/lbs with oil, 55ft/lbs with ARP lube."

 

http://minispares.co...c/C-AHT280.aspx

 

And, I agree with your views and comments. I'm not going to suggest to anyone on this subject how to suck eggs, but this is why we don't use them. For any fastener to work correctly, it does need to be stretched a certain amount, especially critical ones, like head studs, and without the fastener's correct stretch, it could give trouble (depending on the application). I know the blurb here says they don't stretch, however I would suggest they mean go beyond yield (stretch to the point that they don't shrink back). We feel that in order to get these studs to perform as designed, you'd just about be pulling the deck of the block up through the stud holes in the head!

 

We've only ever used the late spec OEM studs for all applications and had no problems with these, however we have been sold some as OEM that were not, I don't know if these would be any good or not as I was put off when screwing them in to the block and they had a bit of a wobble to them, which showed that the thread was not rolled square to the stud. This could lead to premature breakage.

 

Please don't take me the wrong way with my post here, I'm not suggesting that the ARP ones are no good or not suitable, I know there are thousands of sets out there, just that I'm rather cautious about some of this stuff.

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#1 minilee94

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 08:17 AM

I've run up my 1380 engine fresh rebuild it want to re torque the head down its 11 stud head , bk450 gasket , 11.1 cr , minispares hi tensile studs with arp lube also the 11th is not a stud it's a bolt

What are the torque settings please I can't remember

#2 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 09:05 AM

The ARP studs will have their own specific torque settings, based on the use of lube or not... and should be on a piece of paper with the set.

but for standard they are 42ftlb for the Nuts (x10) and 25ftlb for the bolt



#3 Spider

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 09:27 AM

The ARP studs will have their own specific torque settings, based on the use of lube or not... and should be on a piece of paper with the set.

but for standard they are 42ftlb for the Nuts (x10) and 25ftlb for the bolt

 

Guess-Works is correct here in saying that they should come with 'instructions', however with these, the Studs are Torqued to 65 ft/lb if using oil, 55 ft/lb if using ARP lube. The bolt is 25 ft/lb lubed with oil and 22 ft/lb with ARP lube. Don't do them dry.

 

Sorry to say here Guess-Works that those OEM settings were supersuded long ago. There were 3 torque settings over the years and depends on what studs & nuts were fitted;-

 

the original early ones were 40 ft/lb (not much to ID them by),

'Cooper S' ones were 42 ft/lb (IDed by a dimple in the centre of the stud and 8 stamped in to one flat of the Nut)

Late ones were 50 ft/lb (IDed by the UNF end of the studs coming almost to a point and flanged nuts) I think these were introduced around 1968.



#4 carbon

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 07:48 PM

65 lb-ft for cylinder head nuts sounds really high. Is this for ARP studs or the Minispares ones?

 

I'm sure the ARP studs should be well capable of taking this, but not so sure how well the block will cope...

 

The area of the block next to the studs tends to get distorted / pulled up when engine is used hard. Using a very high torque setting on the studs could make this worse.



#5 Spider

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 08:37 PM   Best Answer

65 lb-ft for cylinder head nuts sounds really high. Is this for ARP studs or the Minispares ones?

 

I'm sure the ARP studs should be well capable of taking this, but not so sure how well the block will cope...

 

The area of the block next to the studs tends to get distorted / pulled up when engine is used hard. Using a very high torque setting on the studs could make this worse.

 

Yes;-

 

"EN24 Nickel Chrome moly steel studs, Competition head stud kit (11 studs, nuts & washers.) 4 long and 7 short.

This special kit was developed to replace the increasingly inconsistent standard items. The studs are manufactured in selected hi-grade steel and produced to exacting specifications. These studs do not stretch, so they pull the head down, not the thread up, this vastly increases head gasket life, even on high compression engines. Special thick washers, countersunk on one side, help clamping capability and reduce thread bottoming of the nuts. Note that even replacing the head bolt with a stud, only torque that stud to the factory recommended spec(25 ft/lbs), the other studs can be torqued to 65ft/lbs with oil, 55ft/lbs with ARP lube."

 

http://minispares.co...c/C-AHT280.aspx

 

And, I agree with your views and comments. I'm not going to suggest to anyone on this subject how to suck eggs, but this is why we don't use them. For any fastener to work correctly, it does need to be stretched a certain amount, especially critical ones, like head studs, and without the fastener's correct stretch, it could give trouble (depending on the application). I know the blurb here says they don't stretch, however I would suggest they mean go beyond yield (stretch to the point that they don't shrink back). We feel that in order to get these studs to perform as designed, you'd just about be pulling the deck of the block up through the stud holes in the head!

 

We've only ever used the late spec OEM studs for all applications and had no problems with these, however we have been sold some as OEM that were not, I don't know if these would be any good or not as I was put off when screwing them in to the block and they had a bit of a wobble to them, which showed that the thread was not rolled square to the stud. This could lead to premature breakage.

 

Please don't take me the wrong way with my post here, I'm not suggesting that the ARP ones are no good or not suitable, I know there are thousands of sets out there, just that I'm rather cautious about some of this stuff.



#6 minilee94

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Posted 29 November 2014 - 11:18 PM

Thanks guys sorry I was meant to post that I had found the setting thanks anyway guys




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