Best Exhaust?
#1
Posted 19 January 2015 - 06:34 PM
Thanks
#2
Posted 19 January 2015 - 08:35 PM
It is quite tricky to get within the limits and a 'works' replica will be far too noisy.
A Maniflow twin-box centre exit is the best and strongest with a 'cherry-bomb' centre silencer as they came already 'skid-plated' for rallying. However, after a few events they get a bit near the limit for decibels. The solution I use is a Maniflow 'cherry-bomb in the tunnel and an RC40 as the back box. I weld an additional 1.2 mm thick steel sheet to the underneath of the RC40 as the skin is a bit thin, and weld skid plates on each end to prevent damage on rough roads. Then I modify the rear fixings to prevent the exhaust being torn off on rough roads.
At the front, where the Y-piece goes onto the LCB I drill upwards through the clamps, after tightening them, and tap then 1/4" UNF, then fit short screws through the clamp, Y-piece wall & LCB wall, using Loctite to secure them. That has always worked. The entire exhaust pipe is welded into one unit with no joins/clamps. after the Y-piece to pipe joint.
#3
Posted 19 January 2015 - 09:33 PM
I use one of these.....
http://www.minispare...haust.aspx|Back to shop
Utter bombproof and passes noise ever time. Brilliant exhausts and very well made with skids already welded on from new so no modification needed.
At first I used to clamp the two sections together but ended up doing as Cooperman suggests and welded the two sections together. I run it with a stage 2 Maniflow LCD - again very well made...like all their products.
EDIT - Engine size and spec will dictate what bore size exhaut you go for.
Edited by rally1380, 19 January 2015 - 09:43 PM.
#4
Posted 30 January 2015 - 02:52 PM
It is quite tricky to get within the limits and a 'works' replica will be far too noisy.
A Maniflow twin-box centre exit is the best and strongest with a 'cherry-bomb' centre silencer as they came already 'skid-plated' for rallying. However, after a few events they get a bit near the limit for decibels. The solution I use is a Maniflow 'cherry-bomb in the tunnel and an RC40 as the back box. I weld an additional 1.2 mm thick steel sheet to the underneath of the RC40 as the skin is a bit thin, and weld skid plates on each end to prevent damage on rough roads. Then I modify the rear fixings to prevent the exhaust being torn off on rough roads.
At the front, where the Y-piece goes onto the LCB I drill upwards through the clamps, after tightening them, and tap then 1/4" UNF, then fit short screws through the clamp, Y-piece wall & LCB wall, using Loctite to secure them. That has always worked. The entire exhaust pipe is welded into one unit with no joins/clamps. after the Y-piece to pipe joint.
For my next road car (lowered on 10's) - I'm going the other way. Maniflow Rear box and RC40 centre box (skidded).
#5
Posted 30 January 2015 - 05:58 PM
#6
Posted 30 January 2015 - 09:08 PM
Only thing against Maniflow systems is I find the paint lasts all of 10 minutes...
Yeh agree...though my car was on fire the first time I got the exhaust properly up to temperature.
#7
Posted 30 January 2015 - 10:02 PM
Settled with a maniflow system as suggested.
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