8 replies to this topic

[Jay_Jay]

Hey guys I wonder if you can help me please.

I've got a '94 with the 2 clocks.
Recently the fuel gauge and temp gauge have decided to stop working and both reading at the bottom. Potentially a voltage stabilizer I thought and was going to perform the helpful guide that is on here.

However, problem number two. The battery check light has now decided to stop working when you turn the ignition on, and as a result of this the alternator isn't charging the battery. I've read on here that no light means the alternator won't 'turn on' so to speak.

I'm starting to think there maybe a problem with the whole clock panel itself or a pesky fuse has blown.

I've checked all fuses and they all seem fine, plus everything else is working fine.
I've tested at the temp sensor and fuel tank end by earthing the wire and neither gauge moves when doing so.

Any suggestions please? Is there a hidden fuse I don't know about?

Many thanks in advance

[RooBoonix]

Have you checked the connector in the back of the cluster. I have a 3 clock cluster but I have a plug which clicks in place, maybe that has come unclipped and is slowly working it's way out, disconnecting wire by wire as it wiggles out?

 

Just an idea, easy to check, just remove the dash wing nuts and pull the dash out a few inches and you should see it there. That's if yours has the same type of connector/system.

 

Hope that helps,

Cam.

[Jay_Jay]

I've had the clocks in out, in out, and shake it all about with no resolution.
The dash panel lights up with the lights switched on, but everything else refuses to work.
Faulty PCB? I think thats what it's called lol

[Jay_Jay]

The more I think about this, the more I think there is a break in the PCB that isn't feeding both gauges, and both warning lights.
There is power at the White wire with the ignition on.
Can the PCB be fixed with a conductive pen???

[RooBoonix]

Possibly.. it's not really a PCB it's more of a plastic with copper paths ran etc... but I don't know. When you say "breaks" are they obvious? A conductive pen may work, someone else may pipe up with more advice but if it's broken there's no harm in trying to fix it!

 

 

Cam.

[Mark G]

Sounds like 1) a earthing issue 2) main harness connection has worked loose or has a loose connection within the plastic block.

 

1) check from battery connections down to alternator connections and fusebox connections, engine earth strap aswell.

2) as RooBoonix suggested check the main cluster connection. If all this is fine then remove the main cluster and check the "Flexible PCB" for breaks in the tracks. This can be done by eye and breaks are normally visable by the tracks look burnt or just missing with visable breaks.

 

I wouldnt fix with a conductive pen as this may lead to more issues.

[Jay_Jay]

All connections have previously been checked and earth straps are brand new.
When you take out the bulb holder for the charge light it appears to have worn away some of the copper on the PCB where it has been removed over the years. I still strongly believe this is to fault even though the trace is completely broken.
I'll report back with my finds after today's fiddlings

[Jay_Jay]

So the conductive paint didn't work
Back to the drawing board

[Jay_Jay]

For anyone that is interested it was a loose/old and dodgy inline fuse behind the air filter. Replaced that and all is well again