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'89 Mini City To 'mk1 Cooper S'


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#331 johnR

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Posted 25 May 2019 - 06:49 PM

Yes they're tight - we went round the running engine/carbs with copious amounts of WD40 to try to identify any leaks but nothing showed up - wish it had, then I could have fixed it.

#332 johnR

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 01:30 PM

I took the car (in pouring rain) to Tipton Garage in Devon this morning on a trailer. A quick investigation and use of a leak detector that injects smoke into the carbs showed the suspected airleak was between the inlet manifold and the heat deflector. As the inlet manifold is for either HS2 or HS4 carbs the most likely culprit are the top two redundant HS4 stud holes which may have penetrated into the manifold. Should be a quick fix! Much relieved. Once the rain stops I'll sort the issue and we should be cooking. Tipton garage offer rolling road tuning at £60 per hour if anyone is interested - the proprietor races an A40 and owns a 60's Cooper s and his father worked for Downton so very knowledgeable about classic car issues.  



#333 johnR

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 04:10 PM

The problem...the blackening wasn't showing before so there was no sign that these holes were the culprits. The lower HS4 holes are just through the flange so I assumed the upper ones were too.

Gs9QRvk.jpg

The solution...

yhFRE3G.jpg

Now just need to bolt the carbs back on


Edited by johnR, 13 June 2019 - 04:12 PM.


#334 johnR

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Posted 13 June 2019 - 05:28 PM

A slight holdup - the thread on one of the block heater valve bolts has pulled through - I thought they were dodgy - helicoil kit ordered. 



#335 timmy850

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 03:28 AM

Good to find the problem after all those issues!

#336 johnR

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 11:23 AM

Yes, I feel an idiot for not spotting it sooner but we were concentrating on the head to inlet manifold join and the carbs so missed it.



#337 johnR

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Posted 17 June 2019 - 08:25 PM

Helicoil kit arrived - the 1/4" inch size coils were a pain to insert, they either distorted or the tang broke off at the slightest pressure but I got there in the end. Heater valve bolted on and 2nd head steady installed.

mTvl3UV.jpg

 

 The car started and idles much easier but with the reduced noise I noticed a clonking from the waterpump side of the engine. I checked the rocker cover and it looks as though one of the rockers is contacting the vent baffle and possibly valve springs are just touching either end of the cover which is a new one to me. I had a quick go with a bodywork hammer to dish the baffle and put a slight bulge in the ends of the cover but I think it needs a little more work, even with a new cork gasket. 

I've also noticed the fan belt is loose - it's at the limit of adjustment so I'll need a shorter one.

I might have known it would be too simple to block the rogue air intakes and everything would be fine!


Edited by johnR, Yesterday, 08:02 PM.


#338 johnR

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Posted 18 June 2019 - 04:55 PM

A bit more work on the baffle seems to have sorted the clonking (I think the marks inside the ends are probably from contact as the cover has come off and on), I've changed the needles back to size M as the E2s were unsurprisingly running very sooty. Just need an 825mm fan belt and I can get back to balancing the carbs properly.

Edited by johnR, 18 June 2019 - 04:57 PM.


#339 johnR

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Posted Yesterday, 08:03 PM

The engine idles nicely now - I did a bit of balancing - one carb needed richening up a little. When I took it for a run it drove nicely for a bit, then the carbs seemed to bog, only clearing when I stopped so there is obviously still some work to do - much better though. 

I noticed that the heat in the engine bay is softening the tube I was using for vacuum for the brake servo, I thought the mesh in it would support it but I've now replaced it with a piece of thicker walled rubber pipe.

OR9j3v3.jpg



#340 imack

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Posted Yesterday, 08:18 PM

You really need proper rubber servo vacuum hose.

Attached Files


Edited by imack, Yesterday, 08:24 PM.


#341 johnR

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Posted Yesterday, 09:57 PM

The piece I've replaced the hose in the picture with is rigid enough for now - I may replace it with the proper stuff when I've decided how I want it to look finally.




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