18 replies to this topic

[bob540]

I'm planning on overhauling the drive assembly and surrounding bits fairly soon and I'm not sure whether to go all new or if refurbishing some of the parts is a good idea. It's a 94 and I think everything is original on it (has only done 39k so I don't think anything was replaced). Here's a list of what I'm looking at replacing:

• Calipers
• Discs
• Disc shields
• Pads
• Drive flanges
• Hubs
• Steering arms
• Track rods
• CV joints
• Bearings
• Putting in Hi Lo's
• Shocks
• Bushes

I've a few questions:

1. Can anyone think of anything else that I should be replacing while I'm at it? 
2. I had the ball joints done in the last couple of months with genuine parts, can I reuse them or am I better off starting fresh?
3. Do steering arms generally become worn/damaged over time? If not then I figure I'll give them a clean up to get the surface rust off and then give them a coat of stone chip and reuse them. They look fine to me but I have little to no experience here.
4. Are calipers worth refurbing? Would it be hard/expensive to do myself or have a specialist do it? Was planning on going with minispares calipers but if the originals are as good/better then I'd rather keep it original.
5. Is there any reason I shouldn't clean and paint the disc shields and reuse them?
6. Is it best practice to change the track rods while I'm down there or is there any point if they aren't causing problems?
7. Finally, originally I was gonna go with drilled and grooved discs but I've read in a number of places that standard discs are better (under normal driving conditions) as you get more surface area for the pads to connect with and under normal driving conditions you wouldn't need rapid heat dissipation, does that sound right or are drilled and grooved better? I should say that I don't drive hard at all.

[Carlos W]

Bin the disc shields, one less thing to worry about

[firstforward]

Unless the CV sprays grease over the disc.

[Nick Warwick]

Unless the CV sprays grease over the disc.

 

True but how many times have you heard of this happening? not has disc shields on mine for 6-7 years with no problems.

[69k1100]

The point of drilled and or grooved discs is to allow gas to escape from between the brake pad and the disc. Problem is the holes have been known to crest stress risers in the disc and the grooves wear down pads quicker. Personally solid ones are the go for every day driving.

[BritishRacingGreen]

What's prompted all this? at 39k i shouldn't have thought you'd need to do more than a pad, disc and trackrod change as normal maintenance. 

[zerobelow]

With that long list, might as well check the condition of the cones and knuckle joints, too.

[wile e coyote]

There's a lot there that probably won't need replacing - e.g CV joints, hubs and drive flanges - that's not to say they wouldn't benefit from an inspection, clean up and good lube but my guess is at least those items are fully serviceable - probably bearings too (unless you're experiencing issues - the factory fit bearings were really good - those available now - unless you use Timken ones (£££££'s !!!!) less so.......
Brake shields down to personal preference - but if they're in fair condition and just need a good de - rust / crud (in which case trusty grinder with wire wheel attachement and some hammerite if so inclined is your friend) why not refit them?

Calipers are one of those things that either work or don't - they can look decidedly manky but work perfectly - if theres no problems again whip the crud off, , inspect the pistons for rust / pitting - if none present treat them to a coat of paint if so inclined and refit.... if the pistons have pitting, stainless ones available at reasonable cost as are the seal kits...

Discs again - if excessively thin or scored - replace them - if not just fit new pads - don't be tempted to put racing compound pads in that some retailers "hint" at being super whizzy etc - they won't get up to their optimum temperature to work properly unless on the track.......made that mistake myself years ago - ordinary road going Mintex ones are fine...... others have commented on the discs - standard are fine!

This is just my 2p worth - as I subscribe to IRAN.... (inspect & repair as necessary) & in my head OE components nearly always preferable ....besides I'm a skinflint!....
Obviously if you want to do all that - go for it (and can you lend me a few grand??? lol) - but not necessary!(probably!)

[bob540]

What's prompted all this? at 39k i shouldn't have thought you'd need to do more than a pad, disc and trackrod change as normal maintenance. 

I've been having issues with play in the nearside wheel you can read my post about it here if you want http://www.theminifo...eated-correctly but essentially the split pin was left out by someone at some point and it's done damage to at least the cv and bearing so they'll have to be replaced on both sides. I also have the feeling that the hub has been damaged too and possibly the flange so again they'll need to be replaced both sides. Brake discs are definitely past it as are the pads.

[bob540]

The point of drilled and or grooved discs is to allow gas to escape from between the brake pad and the disc. Problem is the holes have been known to crest stress risers in the disc and the grooves wear down pads quicker. Personally solid ones are the go for every day driving.

Now you see, I thought it was for cooling, ya learn something new every day! Think I'll stick with the standard ones so, thanks mate

[bob540]

With that long list, might as well check the condition of the cones and knuckle joints, too.

Added to the list, thanks!

[bob540]

There's a lot there that probably won't need replacing - e.g CV joints, hubs and drive flanges - that's not to say they wouldn't benefit from an inspection, clean up and good lube but my guess is at least those items are fully serviceable - probably bearings too (unless you're experiencing issues - the factory fit bearings were really good - those available now - unless you use Timken ones (£££££'s !!!!) less so.......
Brake shields down to personal preference - but if they're in fair condition and just need a good de - rust / crud (in which case trusty grinder with wire wheel attachement and some hammerite if so inclined is your friend) why not refit them?

Calipers are one of those things that either work or don't - they can look decidedly manky but work perfectly - if theres no problems again whip the crud off, , inspect the pistons for rust / pitting - if none present treat them to a coat of paint if so inclined and refit.... if the pistons have pitting, stainless ones available at reasonable cost as are the seal kits...

Discs again - if excessively thin or scored - replace them - if not just fit new pads - don't be tempted to put racing compound pads in that some retailers "hint" at being super whizzy etc - they won't get up to their optimum temperature to work properly unless on the track.......made that mistake myself years ago - ordinary road going Mintex ones are fine...... others have commented on the discs - standard are fine!

This is just my 2p worth - as I subscribe to IRAN.... (inspect & repair as necessary) & in my head OE components nearly always preferable ....besides I'm a skinflint!....
Obviously if you want to do all that - go for it (and can you lend me a few grand??? lol) - but not necessary!(probably!)

As I said above unfortunately I think the CV joint, hub, drive flange and bearings are damaged on one side so I think I'm stuck with replacing them. I use timken bearings so it's fine. Discs are past it too. As for the calipers, I have no reason to think they aren't working 100% so I'm gonna put them on the refurb list (£100 saved, that's a start lol) If anyone has any advice or links on how best to refurb them I'd really appreciate it.
Lol I wish I had a couple of grand to loan you but I'm not that flush unfortunately, it's killing me to have to shell out so much but I figure that I may as well do it right if I'm gonna do it.
Any idea on the steering arms?

Edited by bob540, 06 May 2015 - 06:52 PM.

[Titchywitch256]

I refurbed my calipers recently (new seals and pistons) and found it fairly straightforward. Hardest part was putting in the metal ring that holds the dust seal in place. I used a piece of wood and applied even pressure until it popped into position - that was after I had bent 2 of them though 

 

Just keep everything very clean and you should be fine. 

[bob540]

I refurbed my calipers recently (new seals and pistons) and found it fairly straightforward. Hardest part was putting in the metal ring that holds the dust seal in place. I used a piece of wood and applied even pressure until it popped into position - that was after I had bent 2 of them though 
 
Just keep everything very clean and you should be fine. 

That's what I like to hear :) It seems like a straightforward job anyway, I have a vice so I think I'll split the calipers and use the vice to put in the metal ring. Probably easier to clean and paint them when they're split too.

[cal844]

Whilst your stripping, top arm refurb, steering rack refurb, tie bar bushes, engine/ subby mounts...