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Rear Fog Light Gremlins- 1989 Model


Best Answer CityEPete , 24 May 2015 - 05:09 PM

Dip beam will be fine for testing the fog.


The feed comes from the light switch output then to an inline fuse carrier bundled up behind the airbox I think, you might find its that carrier and the other ones tucked up with it that are grotty, just removing the fuses, clean, squirt of wd40 and put back together might solve your problem. Go to the full post


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#1 Sovereign01

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 04:34 PM

Got an issue with the rear fog light in that it's not working, this was only discovered when I took it for its MOT and along with a few other things that I'm working on, only this has me really befuddled.

 

The report said the switch was faulty, which after I took it apart and reassembled it found it to work (although the small lamp inside it didn't, I don't know if the light within the switch has to work or not). This is where it gets interesting because of what I found with the multimeter:

 

Testing the voltage across the terminals that plug into the back of the switch gave a reading of 11 Volts, when I test it at the lamp end it drops to 0.1V. I also tested the connecting wires between the lamp and the rest of the car within the boot, got the same reading- the wires then run into a taped wiring loom that runs acros the bottom of the boot and around behind the fuel tank before presumably running to the front. I have to assume that there must be some contact with the body that's sapping the power. I tested the bulb and it's working, none of the fuses have blown (garage had replaced the fusebox last year so it has modern fuses). I get the feeling there must be something I'm missing, though it's looking like I'll have to run a new wire from front to back.

 

Also, it was said that the rear exhaust is insecurely mounted because it hangs too low; it's a twin-pipe sports exhaust that's connected via this type of connector: http://www.ebay.co.u...1-/390364413097

 

I had to hang it one notch lower to transfer some of the weight from the cotton reel mount at the very back (which broke last time when it bore the entire weight and was replaced) to the rubber rings that hang onto the hook midway along the bottom of the car, I'm not sure how to fix that one.



#2 CityEPete

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 05:21 PM

You need to test the blue/orange to earth at the switch rather than across the switch. See what you have there and report back, dont forget the lights need to be on for the fog light to work.

#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 06:16 PM

You dont have contact with the body sapping the power, it would bloaw a fuse at the lightest touch chck the power into the switch and out and see if there is a difference in reading, usually when you get volt drop on a circuit its due to a bad connection somewhere up the line.



#4 Sovereign01

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 02:52 PM

Good idea; I've just now tested the power by inserting wires into the sockets that the switch plugs into and touching those to the fog light bulb- and it doesn't light up. Do I assume this means I should start looking further up the chain for the problem?



#5 CityEPete

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 03:25 PM

No thats not how it works, one of the wires behind the switch is fed when your lights are switched on probably blue with an orange stripe,the other wire is the output going to the foglight. What you are doing is putting the lamp in series with the foglight, it would light up dimly like that but not without a lamp inserted in the foglight to complete the circuit.

Test for voltage with a volt meter between the blue/orange and a clean earth on the cars body, the headlights must be on, are you checking things with the lights on so far?

If you have around 13v on that blue/orange behind the switch turn the switch on and check that the contact inside the foglight has 13v to a clean earth too, report back with your results.

Edited by CityEPete, 24 May 2015 - 03:28 PM.


#6 CityEPete

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 03:29 PM

If you haven't got a voltmeter look at Kernow's signature, lol :-)

#7 Sovereign01

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 04:47 PM

D'oh, I knew I had to be making a mistake somewhere with the testing. And yes, I've been making sure to test with the lights on full- I assume I should be doing so with full beam since doing that causes the red switch working the front spotlights (must be a bad connection or something since those lights don't illuminate) to light up when turned on.

 

What I'd been doing so far was testing the voltage between the input and output, which is blue/orange as you say and the output blue/yellow. I'll test with a clean earth and report my findings. As an aside I traced the blue/orange wire which ran behind the center console and I assume through the bulkhead. The circuit diagram states that the wire should run straight into the fusebox but no wires of that colour connect to it, so it must join another wire. I'll remove the air filter to get a better view.



#8 CityEPete

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 05:09 PM   Best Answer

Dip beam will be fine for testing the fog.


The feed comes from the light switch output then to an inline fuse carrier bundled up behind the airbox I think, you might find its that carrier and the other ones tucked up with it that are grotty, just removing the fuses, clean, squirt of wd40 and put back together might solve your problem.

#9 Sovereign01

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 08:06 PM

Dip beam will be fine for testing the fog.


The feed comes from the light switch output then to an inline fuse carrier bundled up behind the airbox I think, you might find its that carrier and the other ones tucked up with it that are grotty, just removing the fuses, clean, squirt of wd40 and put back together might solve your problem.

 

Well, after testing all the wires between the switch and the lamp and finding they were fine I went under the bonnet and sure enough it was behind the air filter just like you said, what had happened was the blue/orange wire going into the line fuse had frayed and broken, stripping the wire back and replacing the connection solved the problem :D



#10 CityEPete

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 08:34 AM

Good old minis :-)

#11 rokemester

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 03:04 AM

Coming back to an old thread. Trying to verify this is proper way to mount the rear fog lamp. I thought there would be two bolts for the mounting bracket.

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#12 CityEPete

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 07:01 PM

You're missing the plate that goes between the two.

#13 CityEPete

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 07:06 PM

Screenshot-20190614-200336.png

Ideally you'd have this for a factory look.

#14 CityEPete

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Posted 14 June 2019 - 07:07 PM

But you can buy the bracket on its own, you'd need to adapt it to fit that light though.
Screenshot-20190614-200308.png

#15 rokemester

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Posted 15 June 2019 - 01:30 AM

Perfect! That’s exactly what I needed. I forgot that I have the bracket but it needs to be blasted, primed and painted. Thanks all for your great help. This forum is pretty awesome.

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Edited by rokemester, 15 June 2019 - 01:38 AM.





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