11 replies to this topic

[Gazp]

Hi guys just towards the end of my rebuild just got the engine going for the first time in 4 years yesterday.....yay! However my throttle moves but does nothing!

I have the fuel line connected and advance and retard connected but that's it....I'm pretty sure the carb had no oil in it either. Worth noting too no cables (choke or throttle) connected either
Any ideas would be great!
Thanks

Gaz

[nicklouse]

So? Connect something and see what happens.

Turn some thing and see what happens.


When you say your throttle moves but nothing happens explain.

We have no idea if the engine is running and there is no rev change. Or there is lots of revs and no change?

If you think there is no oil in the dash pot put some in.

Edited by nicklouse, 29 June 2015 - 07:37 PM.

[Gazp]

Well I'm not sure what else needs to go to it! Haynes manual is clear as mud as always!!!

It's running then just starts revving hard on its own! However when I pull the throttle on the side of the carb it does nothing!

How much oil goes in and where in the carb? Sorry new to all this!

[Stiggytoo]

Sounds like you need to read it again...

[wile e coyote]

Chuck some oil in the dashpot........and tell all what carb you've got and cable connection help to follow........... some Haynes's more help than others - I think I've got all of them (4?) and  metro ones too....

[Cooperman]

I think you should learn a bit more about how it all goes together & works before risking serious engine damage by running it again.

You don't start a newly built or re-installed engine until the throttle, choke and fuel lines are correctly fitted and set up. The throttle return springs must be connected & working. The distributor needs to be accurately timed in for initial start-up. The float chamber valve needs to be confirmed as working properly, the carb mixture needs to be set at around 12 flats down from max weak, The throttle cable should have a tiny bit of slack at fully closed, the dashpot should have thin oil to the right level. The carb piston must be able to rise and drop smoothly with just one finger lifting it and drop quickly when released. 

In addition the manifolds must be bolted on firmly to prevent any air leaks.

Don't run it again until you understand all this and have set it correctly and accurately.

[coopdog]

Well maybe you should take the carb back off and check if the butterfly in the carb is moving, sounds like it may be stuck wide open

[Gazp]

Ok sounds like I've made quite a few school boy errors along the way here!! Every day's a school day! Sounds like I'm gonna have to enlist some pro help for the final stage!! Thanks for all the advice guys!!

[Stu1961]

Probably a little late now, but as a novice to all of this myself, I would strongly recommend getting the Haynes Manual devoted solely to the SU carburettor's (EBay) I found it invaluable it gives all the base settings for the various carbs fitted to the Mini in a relatively easy to understand form. And once set correctly for initial start up you won't run the risk of the mixture being to rich. I followed the instructions and all worked fine. Like I said I'm only a novice but it worked for me.

[nicklouse]

I wonder do you have the spacer between the carb and manifold?

You say Haynes is hard to read. Did us fine in the 80s used them to rebuild various cars and service them and rebuild engines.

I would either read read it of find some cash to get someone to sort the car for you.

Sorry but if you are having problems with Haynes then you need to find someone who can do Minis.

[Cooperman]

Initial start-up after a restoration does require everything to be pre-set as correctly as possible to prevent any damage to the engine.

I missed out setting the valve clearances using 'rule-of-nine' to 0.012" (cold).

Never do an initial start-up without connecting everything and checking to ensure it is correct. I was wondering why anyone would attempt to start an engine without having throttle cable fitted, oil in the dashpot, choke connected and everything checked.

[nicklouse]

Yep considering you don't want it ticking over you want a few revs for a while to sort the cam out.

But it does come down to aquiring the info to know what to do. And as people now seem not to be reading and require videos etc.

Not surprised about the lack of engineers out there.