76 replies to this topic

[Mr Frosty]

Ral 1003 is a little closer to BLVC 15 (I think this is nearly Ral 1006 Maise Yellow) than the bright yellow the car was painted in.

My son wants it to be a little brighter so Ral 1003 was a good compromise. Link to colour chart  http://www.ralcolor.com/

The original car colour was Bronze yellow but the only evidence is in obscure places the blasting did not get two.

The car has been sprayed in the bright yellow for some years and in the primer for the last two or so.

[SAL 821X]

YAY FOR YELLOW...... 

[Mr Frosty]

I had a great day on TET this week end.

 

Masked up the car ready for under body stone chip coating.

My son got to do under the bonnet. never one to do it the easy way!

Didn't have the heart to tell him to rotate the car to make his life easier but he made a good job.

 

 

Used the lining paper that has been cluttering up the shed to cover the car.

 

 

How would of thought throwing black sticky stuff at the car could have been so much fun?

 

 

[Mr Frosty]

Got a good smooth coat over all of under side and finished coat in the front arches.

 

 

 

Run out of stone chip so will get some more to finish the seals and inner sections

 

 

 

Finally feels like we have got somewhere now.

 

[minimaxie]

Following! Great thread

[Mr Frosty]

Thanks minimaxie!!

Ordered more high build primer and a few more stone chip cans to finish the under side.

Considering using it on the interior floor only. If I apply at full pressure will give me a smooth durable covering before covering with sound proofing.

[Mr Frosty]

Could not get to mini this week end due to my youngest sons birthday karting bash.

 

Off topic but above is clear evidence that I was in front and in no way points to being beaten by my eldest.

note me hanging on for grim death while number one son looks like he is about to have a small nap.

[Mr Frosty]

My eldest has decided that we are not having the old switches and wants a bespoke one with toggle switches.

He has seen some on he internet so had a look and contacted a specialist they had a five switch unit but it did not match what I wanted. As I have already rebuilt the wiring with extra circuits for spots ect I decided to make one to suit what modifications i had already done.

 

Cut a new back plate from some thick gauge stainless steel and ground to fit the original surround.

 

 

Drew it up on CAD and looked at 5 or 6 switches and decided on six switches. 1.on/off/on for spots 2. on/off Led for Aux 3. on/off Led for break caution 4. on/off Led for Hazards 5. on/off Led for rear fog 6. on/off/on for Side and head lights.

 

 

 Mocked it up but need to make some adjustments and I await the connectors and relays to be delivered so I can finish the wiring.

 

 

 

[SAL 821X]

I'm converting mine from rocker to toggle in a similar fashion but mine are flushed into the dash.. 

 

Where did you get the switches from Mr.Frosty?

[Mr Frosty]

Amazon my Internet shop of choice. I will send you some links over the weekend.
I was a little concerned about what I would get but they are pretty good.
Let me know if you need some help with wiring diagrams I have to fit relays for the hazards and brake level warnings to make them work.
Should be finishing the under seal and fitting the brake/fuel lines Sunday
Soon to be off rotary stand!

[java gt]

Great progress with the Clubbie,as regards wiring products I have used this company in the past and always found them to be very good to deal with and good service too.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

[Mr Frosty]

Good day Sunday on TET.

 

Finished stone chip on under side of car. Was going to do the box sections ect with the same stuff but the gun did not want to play so will do later with wax-oil.  

 

Fortunately I had the old brake/fuel lines to use as a pattern so set about making the new CUPRO lines. I was going to go all stainless but getting the conversion fittings made it a nightmare so went with the standard lines, there will be plenty of S/S in the engine bay where you can see them.

 

 

Next was fitting the rear subframe.

Being someone else's failed restoration project that I got as a box of bits there are subtle clues to where there are problems. With the body works if there was a new replacement panel for a part of the car that was there then their is a problem. Eg a new heal board when the original was already repaired, that was not centred and the measurement between the fixing points was 5mm to short.

the second clue I look for is missing bolts. If there is missing bolts this usually means it don't fit or the threads are Knackered.

In the case of the driver radius arm outer bracket there was two bolts missing and they would not align up. A little head scratching later and a medium size lump hammer to straighten the inner radius fixing point it all fits.

 

 

Now it was time to get off the rotating stands which have been a life saver but take up a lot of room.

 

 

Next to remove the stand brackets and the support frames from inside the car.ready to work on the body ready for paint.

 

  

 

[Mr Frosty]

The rest of my bits turned up yesterday so started to wire the rest of the switches.

 

 

all relays and cables fitted, just need to tidy it up and fit the banana plugs next week when i'm back to work. 

[Mr Frosty]

removed all the rotary brackets and support frames from the car and then set about finishing the stone chip.

 

 

 

 

 

ready now to do the body work to get ready for paint!

 

[Mr Frosty]

switch panel finished.

 

 

 

Yay for Yellow.!!!