58 replies to this topic

[John H]

He's not sold it yet, he's getting it into a condition where it can actually move under it's own power (it does now but I think he has a little more work to do) as I think the fact it couldn't be seen driving would put potential buyers off.

It was actually my old shell and the work Oli has put into it is fantastic! If I didn't have so little time/space I'd have the thing back off him!

[cookie4343]

I would have brought it if I had the money when I saw it on eBay as it looks top quality, I mean the subframe alone is a piece of art.
Shame he didn't decide to make a jig and reproduce the front frame.

[coopdog]

like the sound of this, good luck

[cookie4343]

Front subframe nearly completed, still a few bits to sort out to make it look better.




Car level, sorry about the pic.

Engine and gearbox level in frame.

Engine in final position, best I can get it in there, has a slight forwards tilt.

Edited by cookie4343, 07 February 2016 - 06:02 PM.

[lawrence]

Great looking subframe and install there mate, engine looks really happy in the frame.

Now personally if I was yourself I would completely smooth the valve cover over bar a tiny place to top the oil up :) but then again I like the smoothed valve cover type look!

[jackjewelljj]

Add some strengthening to the lower drivers side

[cookie4343]

My clubby front arrived from Curley, fits spot on and great quality product.
This is the second front first one was second hand, never again £80 flushed down the drain.


Not a lot of room for rad, may have to modify manifold after all.

[cookie4343]

Alternator done today, top original bracket modified and new one made up for bottom, need finishing but it fits and clears the front.
The drivers tie bar is still catching the corner of the block so how bad would it be if I moved the tie bar fixing points say 5mm out just for clearence.

[fuzzy-hair-man]

The drivers tie bar is still catching the corner of the block so how bad would it be if I moved the tie bar fixing points say 5mm out just for clearence.

I think moving the tie bar mount could start all sorts of headaches. I'd be inclined to investigate how much room there is in the sump to relieve some room, on my micra conversion I bashed it back with a hammer, I recently had the sump off to seal it up and there was plenty of room it could've gone in another cm or so easily.

[jackjewelljj]

I moved the tie bar mounts on the 1.8kseries I built was fine drove in a straight line ect.....

[Broomer]

As you will prob have adjustable arms and tie rods anyway I would not worry about moving the mounts a bit.

[cookie4343]

Cheers guys, it will probs be 5 to 10mm max depends on frame clearence as my bottom rails are sort of in the way.

[cookie4343]

Clutch cable done and seems to work ok not sure until test drive.
Radiator is becoming a headache, I got a Suzuki swift one which is pretty tall which means the top radiator hose will be running uphill will this be ok or not.

[cookie4343]

Here's my top hose does this look like it will be ok

Edited by cookie4343, 19 February 2016 - 02:53 PM.

[fuzzy-hair-man]

Here's my top hose does this look like it will be ok

I don't see a problem with the hose going up it will make it easier to bleed air out of the system when you fill the radiator.

 

Engine movement and the rad hose rubbing against the radiator may cause some issues? but it may not be as tight as it looks once the cardboard is removed.

 

You going to run a thermo fan out the front?