9 replies to this topic

[Garymk]

Hi. I've been slowly putting a mini back together that was a unfinished project.
It's a 1992 998cc city.
I've got the engine cranking but have no spark at the plugs.
I've got power at the points so I've set the static timing with a lamp so assume that everything is ok there but I don't have a clue where to look next ?
It's got the pink/white sensertive wire going to the + on the coil along with the yellow/white from the small terminal on the starter .
On the - side of the coil I've put the white/black and that also going to the condenser.
Have I got these round the right way ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers

[dklawson]

It's a 1992 998cc city.
I've got the engine cranking but have no spark at the plugs.
I've got power at the points so I've set the static timing 
It's got the pink/white sensertive wire going to the + on the coil along with the yellow/white from the small terminal on the starter .
On the - side of the coil I've put the white/black and that also going to the condenser.

 

At the distributor, the white/black wire from coil (-) should functionally be connected to the wire on the condenser and the moving arm of the points.  Your wiring sounds correct.

 

Since you got the test lamp to work setting the static timing, you probably have a functioning low-tension circuit.  It's time to look at the high-tension parts.  Start with the distributor cap.  Look for any carbon tracking or craze cracking.  If cracked, replace the cap.  Also look at the spring loaded carbon brush in the center of the cap.  If it is damaged, stuck or missing, replace the cap.  If you have another rotor, try that.  There are some rotors that can short internally to earth through the dizzy shaft.  Of course... make sure the plug wires and plugs are in good shape.

 

The common method of testing for spark is to remove a plug from the engine and rest it on the cylinder head while a friend cranks the engine on the starter.  That works but if there are problems with any of the components above you don't know which is at fault.  An alternative starting point is to remove a plug from the engine and remove the center high-tension lead from the distributor cap... leaving the wire connected to the coil.  Place the disconnected end of the plug wire on the plug you removed and while it is resting on the head, have a friend crank the engine.  If you see sparks at the plug with this test you know the coil and points/condenser are working and that the problem is with the cap, rotor, or plug wires.

[James_eaton_thewholething]

just remember not to grab the spark plug as it really hurts

Edited by James_eaton_thewholething, 12 February 2016 - 05:38 PM.

[Garymk]

Thank you for replying.
I hadn't thought of checking the coil lead like that but will in the morning.
All the leads are in good shape and it's new plugs .

[Garymk]

Double post doh

Edited by Garymk, 13 February 2016 - 06:57 AM.

[Garymk]

I've finally been able to get outside and look at the mini. There is a strong spark coming from the coil but nothing from the cap so I guess there's my fault .

[Tamworthbay]

I've finally been able to get outside and look at the mini. There is a strong spark coming from the coil but nothing from the cap so I guess there's my fault .

caps can look fine but break down invisibly. Also worth getting a new rotor arm while you are at it. They don't seem to last as long either, built to a price not a quality.

[cal844]

 

I've finally been able to get outside and look at the mini. There is a strong spark coming from the coil but nothing from the cap so I guess there's my fault .

caps can look fine but break down invisibly. Also worth getting a new rotor arm while you are at it. They don't seem to last as long either, built to a price not a quality.

 

Cap, rotor arm for now, also stock up on 

points, condenser and a set of decent leads as you will need them

 

Or once you find the fault id upgrade to Electronic (breakerless) ignition

Which makes the car more reliable in the rain and damp weather!

[Garymk]

Cheers.
I've ordered a cap. Rotor arm. Points and condenser too. Once up and running I'll invest in a contactless setup.

[Garymk]

Quick update. I've replaced the cap, arm, points and condenser. It now runs. Cheers everyone for your advise. 😊