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Spi Throttle Cable Setting


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#1 minidave54

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Posted 20 March 2016 - 09:01 PM

Hi Guys,

 

Car now going back together after a re-build and engine finally installed ( car is a 1995 spi )

Hoping to visit some shows get out on some runs after 18 months away.

 

Problem i'm having is with the newly fitted throttle cable from mini spares and trying to set the lost motion.

But the cable appears to be too long. I run out of adjustment before all the slack is taken up.

 

Has anybody come across this problem and found away around it.

I've checked the part number and it's the correct item.

 

Dave



#2 MRA

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 02:00 AM

Don't what ever you do try to lose the loose part of cable, it is a very specific set up procedure not like carb cars.

 

It is in the Rover workshop manual you might find one on eBay etc...



#3 FlyingScot

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 06:57 AM

Moved to injection section ;-)

How does it compare with the original cable?

FS

#4 minidave54

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 08:27 AM

Unfortunately I did not keep the origional as i knew i would be replacing it.

Error on my part, i'll know for next time.

Did not expect to have this problem as they come pre-made to lenght.

#5 MRA

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 09:46 AM

It might not be a problem, the slack you speak of is supposed to be there, but you need to find the Rover manual to work through it methodically.

This way you will understand why it has to have slack



#6 minidave54

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 01:00 PM

Hi MRA and thanks for the info.

 

I have been working through the Haynes manual to refit and adjust the throttle cable.

 

It states that the lock nuts should be positioned to allow equal clearance either side of the throttle lever at the lost motion link and have no slack in the cable.

But before I can take up all the slack and set the lost motion, I run out of adjustment with the lock nuts.

There seems not way to set it as per the manual other than shortening the cable.

 

The Haynes manual seems at odds with you saying it has to have slack.

 

Have you set yours with slack in the cable and if so how did you set the lost motion?



#7 MRA

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 02:54 PM

Can you point me to where it says this in the haynes and which one you are reading please ?



#8 minidave54

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 04:29 PM

I'm using Haynes service and repair manual for minis from 1969 to 2001

 

Chapter 4B, sub chapter 4 Accelerator cable removal, refitting and adjustment.

 

It's paragraph 8 that deals with setting the lost motion.



#9 MRA

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 05:36 PM

Ok that is different but means the same thing, once done you will have slack in the cable, ok so with the cable inner stop resting against the outer cable end (this is where a friend helps by pressing the pedal to the floor) and the throttle lever balanced in the middle of its "free" movement (although the throttle must be fully open on the injection unit) adjust the cable to remove the slack but it must not be tight. in other words you should not be able to get 100% fully open, 90%+ but not 100% .



#10 MRA

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 05:57 PM

Here is the Haynes version

 

Attached File  IMG_8160.JPG   47.41K   41 downloads

 

Attached File  IMG_8162.JPG   49.15K   31 downloads

 

Attached File  IMG_8163.JPG   51.13K   25 downloads

 

Attached File  IMG_8164.JPG   51.89K   21 downloads



#11 minidave54

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 06:36 PM

So what the manual seems to say is if initially the correct lost motion cannot be obtained and requires adjusting, switch on the ignition and move the throttle fully open then closed.

Then check lost motion settings again and adjust lock nuts as required.

 

I will need to check this when I get to a position that I can connect the battery.

Hopefully I have interpreted the manual correctly. 



#12 hunterg30

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Posted 09 October 2018 - 10:59 PM

this might help  a few new people

 


Edited by hunterg30, 09 October 2018 - 11:10 PM.


#13 tarnofsky

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Posted 07 June 2022 - 09:04 AM

Hi all,

 

You guys rock! Helped me a lot to get the cable changed and correctly set up first time. The problem of high idle speeds really was down to a 29 year old cable that wasn't perfect anymore.

Just for those who maybe aren't native speakers, just like me: the "lost idle" bracket you have to look at is the small U-shaped thing on the lower rear of the mechanical levers that transfer the cable's motion to the throttle body. What it does is, it allows the stepper to move the throttle and control the idle speed in a range BEFORE you change the position by depressing the throttle.

This is why it is important to set it up so that the stepper has room to move the throttle.

 

Two things that might prove helpful:
Check that no carpet or sound deadening blocks the throttle pedal from returning to the zero position, thereby depressing the little switch behind it that tells the ECU you haven't depressed the pedal. Happens so easily....

I wasn't able to reach the point where the cable goes through the bulkead from above. Too many hoses and cables in the way.

It's pretty easy to reach though from below the car. Jack it up on the left hand side, secure with an axle stand and you can reach the cable from behind the CV coupling upwards. Pretty simple even with not so small hands like mine.

 

Happy Mini everyone!






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