Help Identifying Cables?
#1
Posted 07 April 2016 - 09:13 PM
Any ideas what they are for?
#2
Posted 12 April 2016 - 03:03 PM
Bump? :)
#3
Posted 18 May 2016 - 10:03 AM
Anyone got any ideas?;)
#4
Posted 22 May 2016 - 10:39 PM
#5
Posted 23 May 2016 - 12:31 PM
#6
Posted 24 May 2016 - 01:26 PM
Ill have to go back and get an exact list for you.
ill try get up this week as wanting to get some form of radio in the car soon but dont know where to start lol
#7
Posted 24 May 2016 - 01:37 PM
Just hoping some of the colours would flag up as being familiar for certain purposes and whether they even relate to the radio or not, another step would be to check for voltage on each (to a solid ground) with the ignition off and on in position 1 and 2 to potentially find permanent and switched lives. Also check for speaker wires in the boot area (assuming speakers may have been in the rear shelf).
Im also assuming all the wires in the photo end to nothing and don't lead anywhere?
Edited by RooBoonix, 24 May 2016 - 01:39 PM.
#8
Posted 25 May 2016 - 09:35 AM
Okay ill take my multi meter up and give them a test. Hopefully get time this weekend.
There are speakers in the parcel shelf still. i tried tracing them but the go into a loom ( or just another load of cable wrapped in electrical tape) and i couldn't trace them further. Ill try to open up the loom and trace them maybe?
Failing that what do i need to fit from scratch? As i may do that just to be safe as it looks like theres been some cowboy jobs on the electrical side. Ignition live, earth, perm live ( where would be the best place to tap into these? ) then i could just run to my amp then power all the speakers off the amp?
#9
Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:10 PM
There's a couple ways to do things.. running new cables for the speakers is relatively easy, twin core wire for each side (left and right), run along the floor and either through the rear bench or hidden behind/under the rear seat would be fine. The power for the radio you can either tap into the fuse box and "piggyback" off a current spade connection, or the best way is to use an auxiliary fuse box with permanent and switched lives.
Running an aux fuse box isn't 100% necessary but is recommended as it takes any additional strain off of the current wiring loom. If you're just running a "normal" headunit and speaker setup (so nothing too special) then piggybacking off the fuse box should be fine (providing there isn't already too much additional load on the fuses). A good ground can be gotten from the lower dash rail using a self tapping screw and ring crimp terminal.
If running a powerful, high end system then dedicated wiring for the audio system would be necessary, but for a normal headunit and 2 speaker install what I have described above should be fine. As you're running an amp, this would need a new electrical supply from the battery and using a relay to trigger the switched live.
Hope that makes sense,
Cam.
Edited by RooBoonix, 25 May 2016 - 02:11 PM.
#10
Posted 27 May 2016 - 04:58 PM
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