45 replies to this topic

[minimat]

There is a second 3 pin plug under the bonnet for the alarm only i think its green,if you plugged into this it could explain the communication error.

I would look at the crank sensor and its wiring.

[FlyingScot]

Coil sounds okay, by the way you only get the high voltage on switching on/ off, but please don't!

Any news from ATP?

FS

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Update

 

Thanks for the replies guys,

 

ATP have confirmed the ECU is fine and they are shipping it back today, hopefully with a correct pin out diagram for the part, so I can cross check against my loom. I bought extra plugs, for the 32 pin connector with the mind set of having to individually interesting each one and testing it again. Will see what happens this weekend. 

 

Definietly connected to the white 3 pin plug, not the green one.

 

I work with flow instruments, so am s£$% scared of anything above 24 VDC, so dont worry....I had rubber gloves and wellies on while checking the coil

 

Now to test that each component is actually connected to the ECU where is should be

 

Gav

Edited by mintlawmaisie1994, 05 May 2016 - 12:45 PM.

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Crank sensor seems to chuck out a small voltage when turning over, so maybe I'll change that as a starting point though.

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Update

 

ECU is back in my sweaty little paws now, with no faults reported, Yeeehaa!! 

 

ATP have marked it up with the numbers 11A12007595 and MNE101070, which according to Mini Spares is "COOPER SPI 069493 TO 103112 VIN NUMBERS".

 

My VIN number is 81793, so that makes it the right part. Now, the question is, does anyone have the correct pin-out for my ECU as it doesn't seem to match anything in the manuals?

 

If your recall, I have the MPI relay pack, but that should hopefully be a minor issue. I can almost smell the exhaust smoke now !!

 

Oh I did manage to figure out the lost motion link and have now managed to set the throttle cable. I had it too tight and the gap at the top was zero.

 

Refitted the ECU and just now added a video clip to my dropbox site of what happens when I turn the key. Now the fuel pump has stopped priming with only the ignition on and fuel relay clatters open and closed.

The purge valve clicks, when the fuel pump relay is manually pushed closed.

 

Now I'm thinking that possibly the relay pack and/or the crank sensor could be gone. 

 

https://www.dropbox....7sj3T4gH2a?dl=0

 

Gav

Edited by mintlawmaisie1994, 05 May 2016 - 06:57 PM.

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Update

 

Like a complete dumbo, I realised today that I was reading the 36 pin numbers on the ECU the wrong way round, so luckily I hadn't changed anything. With the correct pin numbers, all the wiring is correct.

 

Today I checked the crank sensor voltage and its just under 1 VAC while turning over. Continuity is good and it has 1300 Ohms resistance, so that seems OK. Can anyone else check what theirs is, when turning over?  

 

I hotwired the injector today as well and its sprays very well.

 

Now the issue is the chattering fuel pump relay. If I hold it on and turn over the car, the injector does not fire, but the fuel pump does charge the fuel lines and no spark. 

 

I have thoroughly cleaned and copper greased the two earth points on the triangular part of the bulkhead member, so that shouldn't be an issue, but am going to try a separate earth wire all way to the battery tomorrow, to see if that makes a difference, since Sprocket suggested that could be an issue, for the same problem in http://www.theminifo...ectric-problems

 

 

 

That's enough for tonight 

 

Gav

Edited by mintlawmaisie1994, 07 May 2016 - 06:26 PM.

[mintlawmaisie1994]

all,

 

stupid question time. The doors are on, and the door light switches fitted, But the boot lid and bonnet are not fitted, could this cause the car to turn over, but not start? The 3AS imobiliser didn't come with a fob, so I think it's been bypassed and maybe reset itself with the battery being out, but this would kill everything correct?

 

Got the main loom out again and checking every wire for a potential earth fault. Before I did this, the fuel pump relay chatter had stopped, but the fuel pump isn't working now, so I'm starting to feel like I'm chasing my tail. Maybe I'll find something in the main loom. 

[FlyingScot]

Glad that the wiring confusion is over. Crank angle sensor sounds better too.
Try bypassing the fuel cutoff switch temporarily to rule out this.
I'll get out to the workshop at lunchtime and check on the differences in the MFU (SPi versus MPi),
All the switches (door, bonnet, boot) work by grounding, so if they are not fitted they won't effect anything.
The immobilisers work in different ways for different models, some prevent the starter relay others the fuel pump relay.
Does it have a red telltale led on the dash in your car?

Sounds like a bad connection causing the pump relay to drop out intermittently.
Be careful operating the relays manually, remember that MEMS is "grounding" the coils to activate them so check the hot side when it's chattering to see if it's the supply (wiring) or MEMS dropping the control (possible immobiliser issue).

FS

[FlyingScot]

Okay on checking my "green book" the 3AS only works the starter circuit, so if you are able to turn her over its not the immobiliser.

FS

[mintlawmaisie1994]

cool thanks. Still looking through the main loom wire by wire, to see if I have any ground faults. 

 

Gav

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Update.

Main loom wiring all good. Same issues - chattering fuel pump relay, no spark, no fuel spray at the injector. Turns over ok and stepper motor resets ok after switching off.

Gonna bite the bullet and buy a relay pack and crank sensor, then hopefully the ECU will do its job and let the bu99er start.

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Argh!!

 

that's a new crank sensor fitted and it didn't make any difference,               

 

Still turns over, no spark, no fuel spray at the injector. The fuel relay still chatters when I turn on the ignition and the inertia switch was bypassed to be sure it wasn't that. The ECU was checked at ATP and is good, but I still can't communicate with it, with either a laptop with MEMS software and homemade cable, or a Sykes Pickavant ACR4, so I'm totally lost again.

 

Is there anyone in Aberdeenshire that can look at it and say some wise words, or is it time for a new relay pack?

 

 

Gav

[FlyingScot]

Gav

PM me I'll send you the correct SPi relay pack to try. Unless you are going to Glamis this weekend in which case you could collect from me?

FS

[mintlawmaisie1994]

Update, 

 

One more test done. On the relay module, to test the fuel relay chattering issue, I tied pin S1 to earth, then switched on the ignition = No chatter and the fuel pump runs for ever. No spray at the injector and no spark. So this is making me thinks its either a immobiliser or ECU issue? I'm going back out to try a few more tests now. I may be some time.

 

Gav

[FlyingScot]

It's got be be something simple like wiring. ATP have tested the ECU and they are highly respected in their field and they use direct into board test gear. Let's change the MFU and go from there. Making me want to drive to Aberdeenshire

FS