28 replies to this topic

[giles_g]

Well that's the front end done, not bad for starters more to follow.  image.jpeg   27.37K   72 downloads

Attached Files

•  image.jpeg   47.54K   40 downloads

Edited by giles_g, 15 May 2016 - 09:09 PM.

[Steve220]

I'd be now rubbing a good polish into it, remove with a microfibre cloth then add a good wax. T-cut should only be used on small areas, not entire panels.

[giles_g]

I have been using a microfibre cloth, ok I'm welcome to recommondations Steve...

[giles_g]

And why is using T cut all over such a bad idea?

[robminibcy]

I had a metallic blue Volvo for a short while. On the passenger side wing there was a big scratch with white showing through, a matter of seconds it was completely gone and the paint quality was better than most modern cars! Out of interest though why shouldn't tcut be used on whole cars? I understand why they should be waxed after t cut.

[giles_g]

As I say was interested in hearing Steve's opinion... T cut has worked wonderfully for me.

[the.stroker]

I'd be now rubbing a good polish into it, remove with a microfibre cloth then add a good wax. T-cut should only be used on small areas, not entire panels.

Sorry Steve, but that's just duff gen, nothing stopping you doing the whole car, however you do need to know what your doing, I periodically MOP my Porsche all over with a poorboys mild cutting compound , but as stated I know what I'm doing and check the paint depth every time prior to cracking out the MOP.
However when it comes to re waxing the car after, Steve is spot on!

Nice article here from the chipsaway geezers!

https://www.chipsawa...nd-when-not-to/

[Steve220]

It is severely abrasive to your paint work, drying it out and exposing the laquer to the elements causing premature oxidation and fading of the paint work. It also doesn't break down as you use it like a polish. You can easily 'break through' laquer to the base coat too. There is a misconception about polishes and waxes. A polish is abrasive, it takes microscopic imperfections and oxidation away from the paintwork but leaves it exposed, then you put a wax on top to seal it. T-cut will also leave marring of the paintwork if you're not careful. Personally I'd only ever use a finishing polish, meguiars ultimate compound is amazing at getting old, tatty paintwork back to normal. Follow that up with Ultimate polish and then your choice of wax and you should get an amazing finish!

http://www.detailing...ead.php?t=37732

I did mine a year or so ago, but with a DA.

[Steve220]

I'd be now rubbing a good polish into it, remove with a microfibre cloth then add a good wax. T-cut should only be used on small areas, not entire panels.

Sorry Steve, but that's just duff gen, nothing stopping you doing the whole car, however you do need to know what your doing, I periodically MOP my Porsche all over with a poorboys mild cutting compound , but as stated I know what I'm doing and check the paint depth everything prior to the MOP.
However when it comes to re waxing the car after, Steve is spot on!
Nice article here from the chipsaway geezers!https://www.chipsawa...nd-when-not-to/

There's the caveat - you need to know what you're doing. Checking paint depths, applying equal pressure, checking the marring with a light gun etc. For average joe and a few bottles in the garage it is a very different story. I've seen cars go in for respray because their entire lives they've been T-cut every weekend. I hasten to add that I have very good friends with valeting and body shops so have heard many a horror story.

[giles_g]

Sounds interesting and will read in depth later and check out the links and suggestions made.
However on a shoe string budget t cut will do nicely even without looking I'm guessing you're suggesting a very expensive alternative. Not even sure how long I intend to keep this mini for so won't be throwing loads of money at it only the necessary.

[Greigzy]

I will back up Steve on that one - having been detailing for around 6 years, the last thing you really want to use it T-Cut.

 

If you were to go for a DA polisher and a range of pads and polishes, you would see some impressive results with a bit of practise, with a very small risk to your paint (DA's don't heat up like rotarys do).

 

Detailing World is a fantastic forum for guides and advice for anyone that wants to read up further.

[giles_g]

Maybe so but as mentioned in my last post it's not really applicable and won't be spending extra on waxes etc

[giles_g]

I will back up Steve on that one - having been detailing for around 6 years, the last thing you really want to use it T-Cut.
 
If you were to go for a DA polisher and a range of pads and polishes, you would see some impressive results with a bit of practise, with a very small risk to your paint (DA's don't heat up like rotarys do).
 
Detailing World is a fantastic forum for guides and advice for anyone that wants to read up further.

With in mind your experience in detailing would love to hear some feedback from you about how to get the decals in the exact position on the boot and back panels.

[Steve220]

Soapy water method! Google it, works everytime!

[giles_g]

Soapy water method! Google it, works everytime!

In relation to the decals? So how does that work then?