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Mcmini Micra Conversion


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#166 micraminiman

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 09:48 PM

Your at the pipe work too I see..... Its looking ace.

I need to figure out what pipes go where for the cooling.



#167 McMini 22

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Posted 09 December 2016 - 11:00 AM

Yes. Cooling pipes and exhaust pipes. A lot of TIG welding at the moment.
Welded the pipes to the flange which was a nightmare of a job. The welds turned out not too bad and will polish up fine.
However, the heat of the welding has bowed the flange. The middle is OK but there is a 3-4mm gap at one side.

20161209_105301.jpg

I am going to try and straighten this out with the hydraulic press. Hopefully no welds will crack!

#168 benm

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Posted 09 December 2016 - 05:35 PM

An here today on ze hydraulic press channel, we ave a ztainless exhorst 

:lol:

 

Tbf tho Im looking at your sexy exhaust, then looking at my monstrosity and im thinking I cant put this POS on my car  :shy:



#169 McMini 22

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Posted 10 December 2016 - 01:17 AM

An here today on ze hydraulic press channel, we ave a ztainless exhorst 
:lol:
 
Tbf tho Im looking at your sexy exhaust, then looking at my monstrosity and im thinking I cant put this POS on my car  :shy:


Aye. It's a bloody work of art! It's been a nightmare though. Most of the problems are to do with my lack of TIG welding experience but it's turned out OK.
It straightened up ok on the press and I gave it a final grind on the disc linisher. However, straightening it up has forced the middle branch forward and it hits the front panel.

20161210_002316.jpg

I had modified the front panel before I painted it when the engine bay got a coat of paint. Turns out it's not enough. I have tried the grill on and there is plenty of room to bash it out a bit more.

#170 micraminiman

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 12:39 PM

I bolted the old cast manifold to my new flange before I welded it to help prevent any twisting. Worked out great. Stainless is a real asshole to prevent bending tho...

#171 McMini 22

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 01:45 PM

I bolted the old cast manifold to my new flange before I welded it to help prevent any twisting. Worked out great. Stainless is a real asshole to prevent bending tho...


I used a large chunk of beam to bolt the flange for my inlet manifold. I suppose I should have drill more holes and used the same beam for the exhaust.

I tried modifying the front panel but access for a hammer is restricted by the engine. I ended up cutting a chunk out. It goes against my policy of modifying the shell but if it's not there then it can't get too hot! Nothing will be visible when the grill is on.

#172 benm

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 04:54 PM

Screwed mine to a 2x4
😄

#173 micraminiman

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Posted 12 December 2016 - 05:00 PM

 

I bolted the old cast manifold to my new flange before I welded it to help prevent any twisting. Worked out great. Stainless is a real asshole to prevent bending tho...


I used a large chunk of beam to bolt the flange for my inlet manifold. I suppose I should have drill more holes and used the same beam for the exhaust.

I tried modifying the front panel but access for a hammer is restricted by the engine. I ended up cutting a chunk out. It goes against my policy of modifying the shell but if it's not there then it can't get too hot! Nothing will be visible when the grill is on.

 

The Mpi front panel is cut away for the radiator , and it cant be seen. Will be fine.



#174 McMini 22

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Posted 19 December 2016 - 04:48 PM

The front hose is complete.  Bent a piece of 25mm stainless tube and even made up a couple of rings to weld on the ends of the pipes to stop the pipes blowing off under pressure.

20161218_220437.jpg

 

The alternator required a wee bit of modification to the front panel.  No big deal as I need to paint a few bits of the bodywork later on.

20161218_220450.jpg

 

The bottom mounting bolt is "interesting" to get a spanner on.

20161218_220458.jpg

 

I am still working on the water pipe for the back of the engine.  It needs a couple of spurs welded on to join up to the heater and also a bypass hose.  I won't get that welded until after Christmas.

 

What are others doing for heater control valves?

 



#175 fuzzy-hair-man

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 02:05 AM

What are others doing for heater control valves?
 


I used one of these
http://www.t7design....ater-valve.html

Also used thier heater... The old choke cable is now my heater control.

#176 fuzzy-hair-man

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 02:06 AM

What are others doing for heater control valves?
 


I used one of these
http://www.t7design....ater-valve.html

Also used thier heater... The old choke cable is now my heater control.

#177 McMini 22

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 09:29 AM

I saw that one on eBay and I have also looked at their website. I have ordered a plastic VW one but don't know the diameter of the outlets. I see T7 sell one which looks identical with 16mm outlets. My hoses will be 19mm to a flange at the bulkhead then 16mm inside the car. I was looking for a 19mm control valve as I was looking to put it in the engine bay. If the one I have ordered is 16mm then it will get fitted inside the car.

I have never liked that pull knob for the heater valve so I'll look at working out a rotary knob or maybe a slider under the one that directs the heat to the car or the window.

I have my heater in bits at the moment. The matrix has weeped and the inside is pretty rusty. Sandblasting and painting at the moment. Also fitting a new matrix with a mod to make the outlets exit on the left hand side by turning the matrix upside down.

#178 McMini 22

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Posted 02 January 2017 - 05:39 PM

I have decided it's time to start on the back end and get it all sorted and rustproof. So a good bit of tidying up and get the mini down on the ground. Out for the first time in the daylight with the Micra engine in.

20170102_145940.jpg


Bofore I strip the subframe out I thought I'd try the towbar on. I bought this over 20 years ago! I've also found a new 7 pin socket and a chrome flip down tow ball cover. Tastefull!

20170102_165228.jpg

Next step is to get the subframe off and sandblasted. Any welding will get done but I hope there isn't much. It will all get painted with epoxy primer along with the underside of the boot floor.
I haven't had a good look underneath yet but the inside of the boot looks to be in mint condition. It's been coated in some stuff called Bodygaurd and it looks like it's done a good job of keeping the worst of the rust away.

#179 McMini 22

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 02:35 PM

Started removing all the bits to get the subframe out. Hardest part so far has been the handbrake cable clevis pins. Seriously! The bolts in to the heelboard came out no problem at all.

I'm not sure if the subframe is saveable and I don't want to shell out 240 quid for a replacement.

When searching tinternet I found this website for a tubular subframe. This is something I thought about a while ago. Hell, if I can make a front subframe then it should be fairly easy.

http://www.minivatio...-rear-subframe/

Edited by McMini 22, 08 January 2017 - 02:36 PM.


#180 l_jonez

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 04:49 PM

I do like the idea of the tubular rear frame, I guess cost will be the biggest factor






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