308 replies to this topic

[fuzzy-hair-man]

I don't know what's available in terms of inner cv joints in the UK, but I was able to find a smaller diameter joint on an old auto pulsar, the number to look for is DOJ75 written on the side of the joint.
A possible source of inner cv is the older k10s, as I say I don't know but there are other inner CVs that will fit.
Just be wary ringing wreckers as they will sell you anything that fits despite me repeatedly saying the smaller diameter was what I was after...

Edited by fuzzy-hair-man, 28 October 2016 - 12:43 AM.

[McMini 22]

A different pot joint would work but it would be a ball ache making sure the splines all worked out. Scrap yards here are not favourable unless you know exactly what car you are looking for.

Anyhow it's done and ready to be painted this evening.



I have decided in the name of common sense to fit the fuel and brake pipes before the subframe goes back in.

[lawrence]

I've had the same problem with my frame too was having major issues with clearance around the inner cv. In the end I've had to take mine off the road and I need to take the engine out to remake the entire bottom arm to give more clearance. Such a faff to get 5mm more clearance

[lawrence]

This was what I was planning to do for mine if possible, to avoid changing the subframe design. Then I can move the gaiter away from part of the subframe and areas it may catch on and tap the cv joint for bolts.

[McMini 22]

This was what I was planning to do for mine if possible, to avoid changing the subframe design. Then I can move the gaiter away from part of the subframe and areas it may catch on and tap the cv joint for bolts.

 

Where is yours fouling the frame?  My boot was fouling the entire length of the front edge and was worst when suspension was on full droop.  If my subframe mod does not work then I think I'll cry!

 

I wondered about a different clamp on boot but a bolt on one sounds interesting.  I'm not sure there is enough room for tapped holes on the CV joint and as far as I remember it has a kind of rolled over edge on it to keep the inner cage in place.

[McMini 22]

As I mentioned I am running my fuel lines in before the subframe goes back in.  If I don't I know I will regret it later.

 

I am using 8mm Kunifer pipe for fuel lines and I wanted a bead on the end of the pipe (maybe 2 - a bead either side of the jubilee clip) to stop the rubber pipe slipping off under pressure.  I tried soldering a 8mm olive on to the pipe but it was pretty useless.  I was about to make a beading tool based on some photos I have found on the internet then I had an idea for crimping on an olive.  If you have done any plumbing with compression fittings you will know that the olives crimp on pretty tight and you have to cut them off with a junior hacksaw or Dremel.  So I bored out an 8mm brass fitting and sectioned it so that I can get it off the pipe once the olive has been crimped.   Works a bleeding treat!  

Which way to the patents office?

 

 

[lawrence]

So mine was fouling on the first fold of the boot after the clamp if that made sense. It was only when the engine was bouncing around whilst driving when it happens which is why it was fine the first mot. I have an approx 10mm gap between the bare outer casing of the cv. When I made the frame I though 1cm would be more than enough but I failed to account for the thickness of the boot as well as a tie to hold it on.

A bolt on solution would work for me, I was planning to use it to replace that retaining ring your thinking of and may use that ring to make my own bolt on gaiter, perhaps with a mini steering arm gaiter which will be much slimmer and less prone to chafing.

[l_jonez]

As I mentioned I am running my fuel lines in before the subframe goes back in.  If I don't I know I will regret it later.
 
I am using 8mm Kunifer pipe for fuel lines and I wanted a bead on the end of the pipe (maybe 2 - a bead either side of the jubilee clip) to stop the rubber pipe slipping off under pressure.  I tried soldering a 8mm olive on to the pipe but it was pretty useless.  I was about to make a beading tool based on some photos I have found on the internet then I had an idea for crimping on an olive.  If you have done any plumbing with compression fittings you will know that the olives crimp on pretty tight and you have to cut them off with a junior hacksaw or Dremel.  So I bored out an 8mm brass fitting and sectioned it so that I can get it off the pipe once the olive has been crimped.   Works a bleeding treat!  
Which way to the patents office?
 

Did the same on my fuel lines but I just dremiled the fitting in half after crushing the olive to get it off.

[McMini 22]

So mine was fouling on the first fold of the boot after the clamp if that made sense. It was only when the engine was bouncing around whilst driving when it happens which is why it was fine the first mot. I have an approx 10mm gap between the bare outer casing of the cv. When I made the frame I though 1cm would be more than enough but I failed to account for the thickness of the boot as well as a tie to hold it on.

A bolt on solution would work for me, I was planning to use it to replace that retaining ring your thinking of and may use that ring to make my own bolt on gaiter, perhaps with a mini steering arm gaiter which will be much slimmer and less prone to chafing.

Mmmm! Tricky one. This sounds like a lot of work for a solution that may cause other problems. Have you got a build diary on here? I want to check out photos of your subframe for comparison. I must have looked at photos of a couple of hundred subframes by now!

[McMini 22]

As I mentioned I am running my fuel lines in before the subframe goes back in.  If I don't I know I will regret it later.
 
I am using 8mm Kunifer pipe for fuel lines and I wanted a bead on the end of the pipe (maybe 2 - a bead either side of the jubilee clip) to stop the rubber pipe slipping off under pressure.  I tried soldering a 8mm olive on to the pipe but it was pretty useless.  I was about to make a beading tool based on some photos I have found on the internet then I had an idea for crimping on an olive.  If you have done any plumbing with compression fittings you will know that the olives crimp on pretty tight and you have to cut them off with a junior hacksaw or Dremel.  So I bored out an 8mm brass fitting and sectioned it so that I can get it off the pipe once the olive has been crimped.   Works a bleeding treat!  
Which way to the patents office?
 

Did the same on my fuel lines but I just dremiled the fitting in half after crushing the olive to get it off.

Great minds think alike. Mine is reusable so more environmentally friendly!

[McMini 22]

I have been struggling for time but managed to get the car up off the ground so I can get under it and run the fuel lines.

Has anyone got any photos of their fuel lines against the bulkhead?

[McMini 22]

I got the subframe back in (loosely) and it would appear that my fuel lines are being "touched" by the subframe.  The gap between subframe and bulkhead is tight as I wanted the rear cross bar as far back as possible.  The lines are not being crushed, more like being pressed on! 

Anyhow they are going to be re routed in front of the cross bar and I can cut them to length when the engine is in place.  Unfortunately the subframe needs to be dropped again.

 

 

[Artstu]

Obviously the like isn't for the fact you have the clearance issues. Now I hope you made another one just for me. .. 

[benm]

reckon itd be ok to use pre existing SPI fuel lines ?

[McMini 22]

I have no idea how spi or mpi fuel lines run so don't know if they are suitable. This was a carb engine from an MG Metro before so I needed new pipes and a new tank (spi one from Ebay).
I was going to use 8mm feed and 6mm return but decided both in 8mm was a better solution. They are not finished off at the back yet as rear subframe needs to come out for refurbishment.