12 replies to this topic

[mikal]

I have a newly restored '67 Mk 1 Deluxe (In name only, all souped up, 1293, Weber, cam, LCB etc). I've just removed the engine because 3rd gear synchro was a bit dodgy (new close ratio 4 synchro box). That's getting fixed under warranty, dodgy baulk ring apparently. Depressing!

Regardless, the new paintwork (2K) behind the extractors on the bulkhead is bubbling after only 5000km. Highly depressing!

What are your comments and suggestions please. Is it odd the paint is failing like this so soon? Should the 2k paint ought to cope with these temperatures. It is a street car.

My current thoughts are to clean it up and repaint with spray can Ferrari red but will this work any better is these circumstances? I don't have photo's but you can imagine bubbling paint I guess. It was about 3 weeks after painting the car the engine was first run.

Appreciate your advice.

 

Cheers

 

Mikal

 

 

Photo added...

 

And a few of the car... (and my Vespa, '62 model)

 

 

 

Edited by mikal, 28 May 2016 - 03:59 AM.

[dyshipfakta]

Repaint it with very high temperature paint if you aren't going to see it. Atleast then you know it's not going to happen again due to heat.

[sonikk4]

It could be heat affecting the new paint possibly. Maybe worth fully removing the affected paint back to bare metal, thoroughly clean and degrease then etch prime, prime and paint.

[Daz1968]

Think the works cars had a heatproof pad on bulkhead, I have never had the issue described though so maybe exhaust a little close, you could always heat wrap the manifold down to the y piece to help as well.

[mikal]

Thanks for the replies guys. But should 2k paint fail like that. .. I'm confused about that....

[sonikk4]

IT should not but there may be other factors at work here, paint not fully cured, contaminants on the bulkhead etc etc.

[mikal]

Photo's added, firewall photo not great but you get the idea..

 

Cheers

 

Mikal

[sonikk4]

It does look burnt but also signs of something like oil possibly. As I said strip it back completely to bare metal etch prime, prime and then topcoat making sure each stage the paint has flashed off properly.

[midridge2]

It looks like water/brake fluid etc  has come through, take it back to bare metal, etch, prime then bar coat it.

[mikal]

Definitely no brake fluid involved. Taking it back to bare metal sounds drastic if not depressing. I'll rub it back and paint it with high temp paint, hopefully red if I can find it. Thanks for your comments...

[sonikk4]

Definitely no brake fluid involved. Taking it back to bare metal sounds drastic if not depressing. I'll rub it back and paint it with high temp paint, hopefully red if I can find it. Thanks for your comments...

This can be done quite quickly, grinder with a wire brush on it will take that off very quickly. Better to remove it completely rather than risking it contaminating the new paint.

[Cooperman]

The original 'works' cars did, indeed, have a (whisper it) rectangular asbestos plate bolted onto the bulkhead just below the cross-member. I also have one on my 'S'. Paint bubbling/burning is always a problem in that area when an LCB is fitted.

[tiger99]

In that case, there are various modern asbestos - free insulating materials that could be fitted. A lot of excess heat gets into Minis of all sorts, and indeed cars of all sorts, via the exhaust and there is an entire range of stuff which can help, including exhaust coatings and flexible insulation for the floor and bulkhead. The kit car suppliers have suitable materials.

I would suggest a ceramic coating on the LCB first.