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Bloody Wheel Bearings!


Best Answer surfblue , 07 July 2018 - 11:35 AM

Well my problem is at last fixed  :D

Yesterday I finally got round to fitting my nos hub, nos drive flange and a taper roller wheel bearing kit. All went together easily and no play now.

 

(Edit, Just like to place on record my appreciation for all those who provided advice and detailed explanations of how it all 'should' work! Especially Moke Spider and Tigger 99.)

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#46 cian

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 05:40 PM

The aftermarket bearings must be manufactured to an higher tolerance than timkens as they have no matching numbers or engravings 😂

#47 foreverfixin

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 10:14 PM

I get the bit about matched bearing sets, etc. What I'd really like to know though is - when the hub nut is done up is the inner end of the drive flange shaft meant to tighten against the CV, or is it the set of 2 spacers and 2 bearings that clamp onto the CV? Or, maybe it's both?

#48 tiger99

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 12:07 AM

It is the entire stack of split cone washer, hub flange, "inner" outer bearing, spacer (if needed, some bearings have them built in) and "inner" inner bearing that is clamped between the hub nut and the body of the CV. But there is a complication. You use the large washer initially to pull the entire stack up tight, before fitting the split cone.

 

The outer races are just a "medium" press fit (as opposed to a "push" fit or a "heavy" press fit) in the hub and are not restrained in any other way except that the cone of rollers in the "inner" bearings are pressing lightly against them.

 

The difference for ball bearings and drum brakes is that there is no split cone, and the back of the hub flange forms a sleeve on to which the bearing inners are a medium press fit. The stack of bearings and spacer is what is clamped between the flange and the CV. The sleeve must not be too long, or it will bottom out on the CV and leave the bearings unclamped.

 

The drive is actually transmitted by friction between the clamped surfaces, notably the split cone. The splines are only there as backup and would quickly suffer from fretting if there was movement. That is why the tightening torque is so enormously high.

 

If anything in that rough explanation is not clear. please ask again.



#49 Spider

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 06:32 AM

I get the bit about matched bearing sets, etc. What I'd really like to know though is - when the hub nut is done up is the inner end of the drive flange shaft meant to tighten against the CV, or is it the set of 2 spacers and 2 bearings that clamp onto the CV? Or, maybe it's both?

 

Right, gotya now.

 

With Drum Brakes, the 'tube' of the Drive Flange that the Bearings mount on to should be and needs to be a bit short of the Bearing Cones (the inners) and the Spacer when mounted. This is so that when tightened up, it is in fact the Bearings through the Cones and Spacer that are getting tightened up. The Spacer will (or should) maintain the correct distance between the Bearing Cones (hence why it's matched). Hope that makes sense!

 

 

Except as cian has pointed out with the cheap sets that are manufactured to such accuracies that they don't need matching,,,,,,, Bhahahahahahahaha,,,,, yeah, right,,,,,,,,



#50 foreverfixin

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Posted 09 January 2017 - 03:12 PM

Thanks for those comments which have cleared up my uncertainties, I now know what to expect when it comes to putting the hubs back together again. Whilst awaiting delivery of the new bearings and flanges I'll put lick of paint on all the bits, ahead of which I need to weld nuts on to the back of the 'rounded' adjusters.

#51 surfblue

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 07:07 PM

So here we are, almost a year to the day since I started this thread and I still havent got the issue fixed. Amazing how "over the winter" plans get forgotten about. Im definitely going to get it done this year..........



#52 Spider

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 08:32 PM

So here we are, almost a year to the day since I started this thread and I still havent got the issue fixed. Amazing how "over the winter" plans get forgotten about. Im definitely going to get it done this year..........

 

If I recall, you are in need of a hub?

 

If you can't find a decent one, look in to having one built up with metal spray and machined back to size. It shouldn't cost too much.



#53 surfblue

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 09:23 AM

Well today Ive actually managed to buy a NOS hub on ebay for the grand sum of £10  :D

So just maybe this winter I will get around to fixing this once and for all. I think I will go with the taper roller bearings as suggested along with a new drive flange. 



#54 dyshipfakta

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 11:48 AM

New hub solved it for me. Mini spares hubs are excellent

#55 surfblue

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 11:35 AM   Best Answer

Well my problem is at last fixed  :D

Yesterday I finally got round to fitting my nos hub, nos drive flange and a taper roller wheel bearing kit. All went together easily and no play now.

 

(Edit, Just like to place on record my appreciation for all those who provided advice and detailed explanations of how it all 'should' work! Especially Moke Spider and Tigger 99.)


Edited by surfblue, 08 July 2018 - 08:45 AM.


#56 Rorf

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 05:20 PM

Well done surfblue and great stuff for the feed back. This is an excellent thread on front wheel bearings and great comments from some of the long time fundis on the forum (Moke :proud:  and tiger 99).

 

Which bearings did you finally use and from who did you get them? :proud:



#57 surfblue

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 07:45 PM

Just went for minisport standard disc brake wheel bearing kit:-

https://www.minispor...-disc-type.html

Taking into consideration how few miles I do I expect this will do the job!

#58 Spider

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 09:19 AM

I'm really pleased for you with the outcome here mate - worth the wait !






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