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Tips On Buying 1980 1.1L Clubman Estate

suspension brakes electrical engine

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#1 robinjhorn

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 12:18 PM

Hi everyone,

 

 I've just joined the forum as I'm going this evening to have a look at a 1980 1.1l Clubman Estate hopefully to put a deposit on it and rejoin the section of society that drives with a grin on their face after 15 boring years.

 

  The car in question seems to be very clean and mostly original, 45k on the clock, (original engine apparently) no refurb work done and very clean bodywork sills/ valances etc..

 

It's been a while since i had my '89 1.0l when i passed my test but the workings and 'mechanical features' of it are slowly coming back to me.

 

Does anyone have any particular advice regarding this era of estates that i should be aware of? i.e. rust blackspots, suspension issues, generational engine or gearbox issues, difficulty in getting particular parts, whether the petrol tank is doomed form the start being outside the body etc..?

 

  I've got a pretty good idea of all the major points to check but any and all advice no matter how patronising (it may be well placed condescention!) that i might do well to be wary of?

 

thanks in advance for any help offered,

         Robin.



#2 Mini Manannán

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 02:18 PM

Apart from the usual.  The trim around the rear windows can harbour rust, mine have to come off before winter  :unsure: Yes, the tank is liable to get 'weathered'. Again, mine has to get sorted for winter.  

 

They have their own forum: http://www.clubmanestates.co.uk/  though it is a bit slow-moving and you might have to wait a while for an answer...



#3 Archived2

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 03:03 PM

1098cc engine is pretty much a long stroke 998cc.
I know the mileage seems low but bring the revs up on a warm engine to around 3000 and hold it there for a few seconds (10-ish) and check for blue smoke. Increasing smoke is a sign of bore/ring wear that's very common in the long stroke.

Also check that the engine has either been converted to unleaded (check paperwork etc) or search the car to see if a lead replacement additive has been used. A leaded engine running unleaded can cause valve seat recession.

Check the gearbox for popping out of gear (2nd is the usual culprit) and graunching when changing from 3rd down to second. Both are an engine out and gearbox split fix

Rear tanks are available and not a hard job to swap.

Rear subframe needs to be sound all over. Check for thickening and blistering on the lower sections where it meets the cross member next to the heel board.
Any holes and it's a replacement. Everything mini is available except major panels like the roof skin unless you go second hand. On that note check the roof corners and in the gutters.

Clubby front end panels aren't cheap so barter hard even if they show only minor rust areas.

Edited by minihobbymini, 04 July 2016 - 03:05 PM.


#4 carbon

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 05:59 PM

Body, body, body.

 

Anything that bolts to the body is relatively easy, if body is not sound it could cost you a fortune.

 

Check in all usual places, take a magnet and ask to see inside with all carpets lifted up.



#5 greenwheels

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 06:24 PM

The fuel tank rusts from the top so it's impossible to know if its damaged until it leaks - if it looks ok don't worry.

Check all around the rear valance, if it's had a small shunt in the centre rear the stiffener may be rusting which is a pain to replace, but it takes along time to get bad, so if it looks ok it probably is. 

Check the side rear valance for rust, they tend to pick up mud from the rear wheels.

 

They are fabulous little load carriers.


Edited by greenwheels, 04 July 2016 - 06:25 PM.


#6 robinjhorn

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 10:02 AM

Hi guys,

 

 thanks for the swift and helpful responses, went to have a look last night, its a cracker. has been on the road for 3 yrs and garaged for 10 before that, body is super clean for the age, theres one patch of a small hole on the drivers side front wheel arch, sills, boot and footwell floors are clean and original, panels are all very clean incl sliding window frames and back doors, the only bits of rust that'll need dealing with are the rear valance in the corners of the doors, the front valance (surface rust on the seams and across the front, not too bad yet) and the stone chips and crazing on the front of the bonnet.

 

engine is smooth, no significant smoke (held the revs and it seems good), stainless fuel tank fitted, electric ignition, cooper disc conversion, immaculate original interior, subframes are in okay condition (front is good back needs a little bit of preventative work but generally its pretty solid) lots of rare original fittings still intact and a good crop of spares to come with.

 

All in all its very clean though in need of some remedial paint work befor ethe winter so that the light rusting doesnt set in properly.  Think I'm gonna go for it.

 

 

thans again!



#7 Mini Manannán

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 02:22 PM

Sounds good, enjoy your estate! :-)

#8 psychobob

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 02:54 PM

A stainless tank is a bonus. My old clubby estate I had years ago had been parked outside for three years with no petrol cap on when I bought it. When I took the tank off to swill it out, I found five  kitchen forks and a dead frog in it! And it leaked!



#9 tiger99

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 03:52 PM

So did the previous owner drop the forks while trying to get the frog out? Enquiring minds need to know...

#10 Archived2

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 04:27 PM

So did the previous owner drop the forks while trying to get the frog out? Enquiring minds need to know...


Lmao!





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