9 replies to this topic

[Vinnienova]

Hi was wondering if anyone can shed light on sonething. I took my mini city for mot today and while the handbrake was on my rear offside drum turned freely meaning it wasn't working yet the other was stiff (working) my question is that is it normal for one to go and not the other and would I need to replace it or could there be something more simple I could do to fix it? Many thanks

[RedRuby]

Check the quant rant on the radius arm to make sure it is not seized, also check the handbrake linkage Attached to the cable that acts on the brake shoes and check that the brakes on that side are correctly adjusted.

[TAR]

If the handbrake lever on one side is siezed, it can cause one drum not to lock. Take the drum off, disconnect the handbrake cable from the lever and remove the lever. Check it moves on the pivot, if not clean and grease it and put it back.

 

Its quite a simple job.

 

Other cause can be a siezed handbrake cable on one side.

 

wow - wish I wasn't so slow at typing replies... beaten to it by RubyRed.

Edited by TAR, 31 August 2016 - 09:48 PM.

[Ethel]

Leaky wheel cylinder is another possibility, but would also kill the foot brake.

[tiger99]

Yes, take all these bits apart, clean and grease as said above. Also the actuating mechanism inside the drums, with the lever that comes through the backplate and the shoe spreading mechanism. Do both sides, as they are certain to need it now, or very soon.

[Vinnienova]

Great feedback thanks think I may know what I'm doing now. Had a look under the rear wheel today and can see a spring and where the wire actually goes into the drum from behind if I lift the elbow it's attaching to right before reaching the drum at the back it stops the drum from turning but my only issue now is that at the front of the drum itself there is a srew (possitive) and what looks like where a screw might have been but isnt. My problem now is the screw is about to be rounded of making it impossible to turn so I've sprayed with wd40 and going to wait a while before attempting to unscrew so I can get the dam drum open and inspect :-/

[TAR]

That screw holds the drum in place and should'nt be too tight. If you have an impact driver that will make light work of it.

 

Useful bit of kit to own, you put the bit in it and hit with a hammer, this turns the bit.

 

 

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[tiger99]

Yes, as sbove, use an impact driver. You set it to rotate in the correct direction (there is a pin in an angled slot), engage with the screw and apply some unscrewing force by hand. Whack it with a fairly heavy hammer. You usually need only one careful blow.

The impact holds the screwdriver bit down tight in the screw head to prevent it slipping and at the same time gives it a good jolt of untightening torque.

Extremely useful tool for old cars and other things, and not all that expensive.

The brake drum screw(s) perform no function when the wheel is on, but do prevent the drum becoming displaced when the wheel is off. A displaced drum can admit muck between the drum and hub, so the drum no longer runs true. For that reason it is good practice to always use the screw(s). 1/4" UNF. Worth fitting new screws an keeping spares in case they get chewed again. They always do, sooner or later, regardless of how much care is taken.

[gazza82]

Extremely useful tool for old cars and other things, and not all that expensive.

 

 

Which is good .. especially when you hit them and they break in two in your hand!!

Edited by gazza82, 02 September 2016 - 04:58 PM.

[tiger99]

Never had that happen. Is there a brand to avoid?