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Wheel Arch Protection


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#1 Brit in RacingGreen

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 11:54 AM

I have just wirebrushed my wheel arches down to bare metal to assess for rust after finding a few small holes.  Now that I need to recoat them, is this a good mix?

 

seam sealer (on the seams)

followed by P10 red etch primer

then stone shield anti chip coating

finishing with body colour paint

 

I'd appreciate your input.

 

Thanks.



#2 Norris73

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 12:00 PM

My cars are not pristine so I don’t go for factory finish, rather try to keep them from rotting out.

 

I wire brush as you have done

2 coats of Jenolite rust convertor

2 coats Hammerite 'direct to rust'

Seam seal with Upol brushable

2 coats of Tetroseal

 

Seems to hold up well just keep an eye on it from time to time and touch in as necessary.

 

Olie



#3 dyshipfakta

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 12:00 PM

I think only thing I did different was some primer before he sealer. Aslong as its well dry should be ok. Then a tonne of your favourite wax based product ontop.

Upol gravitex is ace for a stonechip and over paints v easily just make sure again everything has dried fully perhaps even longer then you think before the stone chip as it has a tonne of solvent in it.

#4 pete l

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 01:23 PM

Down to bare metal,

Treat any rust with bilt hamber deox gel rust REMOVER, don't use anything else as it's pants. Get rid of all the rust, any rust pits left will re-rust.

Prime with EPOXY primer

Seam seal it

Primer and / or stone chip

paint 

laquer



#5 tiger99

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 04:48 PM

Where are the holes? When the metal is holed, it is usually too far gone for rust removers and protective paints to be effective. It is almost always necessary to cut out the affected area and weld in new metal.

#6 bluedragon

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 06:40 PM

Prime with EPOXY primer

 

 

Second this point. A good epoxy primer is the #1 step to protecting against future corrosion. It's more important than the topcoat, since quality epoxy primer is more moisture-resistant than even 2K paint (even to equal or better than a polyurethane.)

 

Ideally, get an epoxy whose manufacturer directions indicate to put body filler *on top* of the epoxy primer base. This is more time consuming, but it's the ultimate in corrosion protection (since body filler absorbs moisture.) Having the epoxy below seals off the metal from any moisture that the body filler traps. It's the best way to go if the epoxy maker has designed their product to work in this fashion.






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