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Cigarette Lighter Installation - Help & Advice


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#16 Jordannn

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 07:52 PM

Thanks for the replys guys!

JohnR - that's waaaay to technical for me 😂
I want the cigarette 12v socket to work ONLY when the ignition is turned on, so that there's no chance of draining the battery.

What appliances, or wires are there available to use as a source?

Thanks

#17 Jordannn

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 08:21 PM

I'm looking at a Haynes Mini Manual at the moment and have come across this page (see attachment)

It clearly states that for the 4-fuse block, to attach 'additional appliances' to the no. 5 fuse(in red). However, for the 24 fuse block, there is no mention of adding 'additional appliances'.

Really confusing that there seems to be no guidance for adding additional appliances for a 24 fuse block!

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#18 johnR

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 07:51 PM

If you want a socket to turn off with the ignition you will need a new relay with a feed from the switched side of the ignition to activate it - power to the socket then from the starter motor positive through an inline fuse perhaps?

JohnR  



#19 1984mini25

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 07:58 PM


It clearly states that for the 4-fuse block, to attach 'additional appliances' to the no. 5 fuse(in red). However, for the 24 fuse block, there is no mention of adding 'additional appliances'.
 

 

But that is if you want the additional accessories (ciggy lighter, 12v socket, dash lighting etc) to work independently (permanently live) from the ignition.



#20 Jordannn

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:28 PM

 


It clearly states that for the 4-fuse block, to attach 'additional appliances' to the no. 5 fuse(in red). However, for the 24 fuse block, there is no mention of adding 'additional appliances'.
 

 

But that is if you want the additional accessories (ciggy lighter, 12v socket, dash lighting etc) to work independently (permanently live) from the ignition.

 

Yeah, i dont want it to be permanently live from the ignition - simply to reduce chances of a flat battery. The 12v socket would only be used when the keys in the ignition.

 

Since the 12v cigarette lighter socket already has its own 10amp fuse, isnt it as simple as finding a source that only works then the keys in the ignition, at either point I or II, and connecting the new live cigarette socket wire to the live feed, and the black earth cable to the body?


Edited by Jordannn, 07 September 2016 - 08:35 PM.


#21 minisilverbullet

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:45 PM

You have some options. 

 

Generally white colored wires are switched live. Or only live when the ignition is on. You will find these behind the dash or on the fuse box (unscrew the box)

 

So now you have the option of piggy backing from one of these wires or you may be able to by one of these fuse piggy back connectors which sit in place of a fuse and then the original fuse plugs into that. I am not sure the lid of try fuse box will close with these. 

 

It seems like you want to just directly connect the socket directly to an existing circuit. While this will work it may put too much strain on the wiring of that circuit. 

 

A much safer option is to use a relay. Here you can run a 12V supply from the starter solenoid to the relay (this is the source that will power your accessory).

But you also run an ignition (white wire) to the relay, all this does is power the solenoid in the really to close the switch allowing the 12V from the starter to power your accessory. This way means there is no additional strain on the existing circuit.

Then you add your accessory to the relay and an earth using a ring terminal to somewhere on the body.

 

This sounds very complicated and it really daunted me when i first bought my mini. But is really simple. 



#22 nicklouse

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:51 PM

Sorry but having it wired to ignition on is more likely to result in a flat battery.

The type you linked to is only working when you have something pushed in. Nothing in no draw.

I would still wire it up to a perm live. Fuse it and have socket Assy with a power switch.

Which is how I have one and I also have three that are not switched but had differently rated wires as they are used differently.

A single with wiring suitable to run a fridge

A double with water proof caps for use with 12v compressors etc and a 4 way that is used for charging phones tablets etc.

Not the mini but the camper/service van.

#23 Jordannn

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 09:22 PM

The type you linked to is only working when you have something pushed in. Nothing in no draw.

I would still wire it up to a perm live. Fuse it and have socket Assy with a power switch.


Ahhh, I didn't think about that. Do you have any recommendations as to what perm live feed I should consider wiring the red 12v socket cable up to?

And when you say 'power switch' - I take it you mean a flick switch (like a light switch)?

Thanks for the reply, I'm absolutely hopeless when it comes to circuits, and wiring .ect

#24 Jordannn

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 09:23 PM

.

Edited by Jordannn, 08 September 2016 - 06:02 AM.


#25 Jordannn

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 09:23 PM

.

Edited by Jordannn, 08 September 2016 - 06:02 AM.


#26 Jordannn

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 05:20 PM

Update:

My lighter socket has come today, these are the available sockets to use (see attached)

I've not got a clue what the white ending can connect into, nor have I got any idea where I can connect the blue clips! 😔

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#27 idlethumbs

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Posted 11 September 2016 - 06:20 PM

Mines wired to the switched live of the car stereo. Then sits inside my glovebox build.

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#28 johnR

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 09:28 AM

Just make sure that your 12v socket has a cap to cover it when not in use - I accidentally hoovered up the cap from the socket on my daily, forgot to recover it, then the end of a USB charging lead ended up dropping in and blew the fuse!

#29 Jordannn

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 05:16 PM

Thanks for the reply guys, going to give it a go in the next week!

 

johnR - ill be sure to always keep it covered!

 

Thanks






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