20 replies to this topic

[Spider]

The flywheel is not made of the same stuff as grade 10 or 12 nuts, so its threads will inevitably fail first. Has anyone had this happen, and how did you recover the situation? Drill and tap for larger bolts, or cut the flywheel off?

 

Yes, it happens. I drill and tap them 7/16" UNF at that point, but it does make the job go from an engine in to an engine out job.

 

<Edit: It's crucial though that whether Helicoiled or resized, that the threads are dead square or you'll just break bolts.>

Edited by Moke Spider, 25 September 2016 - 07:29 PM.

[tiger99]

My puller is a cheap, unbranded old thing, just a very thick triangular plate with a fine threaded large bolt in the middle. It is a lot stronger than some of the fancy, expensive models, because of the very thick plate. It was for a pre-verto but last time I had it out I noticed that at some time I had drilled another set of holes and fitted a set of metric bolts from an Opel Rekord D propshaft donut coupling.

It has always done the job easily so far, but the reason I was questioning the strength of the bolts and their threaded holes is because of some of the problems we see on this forum nowadays, with flywheels possibly being much tighter now due to age.

If you want to make one, start with a piece of at least 25mm plate. Crude but simple.

[leadly]

Wow, that's a bit nice!

[nicklouse]

Got to use it today.

Along with the good old SP flywheel lock.

[Jordie]

Nice.

 

I have the same locking tool.

 

I use a laser puller, never had a single issue with it. was about £15.

[nicklouse]

Nice.
 
I have the same locking tool.
 
I use a laser puller, never had a single issue with it. was about £15.

My old laser one was past it now. See earlier photo.