New Mini Shed/garage
#1
Posted 05 October 2016 - 04:22 PM
First things first the base. 25ftx16ft concrete base used 9 tons of ballast and 40 bags of cement!!
You can see I used the steel from the tunnel to strengthen the base ;)
Next up was the frames. Had to make 6 separate frames as the longest length of 3x2 you can buy is 16ft!
Got them screwed together today plus put the window in.
Tomorrows job is bolting the frame into the concrete making sure it's all nice and square. Then get the 6x2s into the roof!
#2
Posted 05 October 2016 - 05:39 PM
Very nice
#3
Posted 05 October 2016 - 07:50 PM
Very nice
Thanks buddy! :)
#4
Posted 05 October 2016 - 08:14 PM
Wish I had access to my back garden for a car, Id be building something similar :)
Looking to be doing a good job....
#5
Posted 05 October 2016 - 08:23 PM
I'm not jealous at all..........
#6
Posted 05 October 2016 - 08:30 PM
I did something very similar.
Originally was going to have pitched roof, but height restrictions stopped that. We used a tile effect metal sheet roofing, but i want to replace it with wooden boards and a one piece rubber as the metal roof has too much flex in storms and leads to small leaks with it not having a steep run off.
#7
Posted 06 October 2016 - 02:52 PM
I did something very similar.
Originally was going to have pitched roof, but height restrictions stopped that. We used a tile effect metal sheet roofing, but i want to replace it with wooden boards and a one piece rubber as the metal roof has too much flex in storms and leads to small leaks with it not having a steep run off.
Looks good mate!
I was going to have a pitched roof but would if cost a hell of allot more!!!! My roof will be covered in 12mm obd board then covered with sheets of tile effect sheeting that lock together. Hopefully it doesn't leak !!! Haha :)
#9
Posted 06 October 2016 - 06:41 PM
Just looking at the timber you used, is it tanalised/treatd timber or just normal PAR timber....
I can see that roofing joists are treated, with them being a green colour..
If its PAR timber, you'll need a barrier between the concrete base and the bottom parts of the frames you have, otherwise they'll start to rot within 5 years or so...
Edited by minifreek1, 06 October 2016 - 06:42 PM.
#10
Posted 06 October 2016 - 07:28 PM
Just looking at the timber you used, is it tanalised/treatd timber or just normal PAR timber....
I can see that roofing joists are treated, with them being a green colour..
If its PAR timber, you'll need a barrier between the concrete base and the bottom parts of the frames you have, otherwise they'll start to rot within 5 years or so...
Was going to say the same. You should be able to slip some DPC under the frame though before you go much further. Also not too keen on how you are supporting the roof structure off the top rails. I'd add some additional support to transfer the load directly down.
#11
Posted 06 October 2016 - 09:06 PM
The joist hangers that have been used to support the roof structure will be more than capable of supporting the roof beams....
The decking at the back of my house is using joist hangers as that what was recommended by my F in L who's a retired proffesional builder....
#12
Posted 06 October 2016 - 09:28 PM
Just looking at the timber you used, is it tanalised/treatd timber or just normal PAR timber....
I can see that roofing joists are treated, with them being a green colour..
If its PAR timber, you'll need a barrier between the concrete base and the bottom parts of the frames you have, otherwise they'll start to rot within 5 years or so...
Not to worry guys I have damp proofing membrane already here to put on before the cladding plus the concrete base will not be grassed up to again the cladding will go down to cover the concrete. Edged with gravel. My dads garage was built in the same way been up over 20 years just done an extension no signs of rot in the frames ! :)
Roof is not yet finished and my 15 stone brother has been doing pull ups on it with no signs of movement. Will make sure it is as strong as possible before the sheeting goes on :) Thanks for the positive comments guys !!!
#13
Posted 07 October 2016 - 10:04 PM
#14
Posted 07 October 2016 - 10:48 PM
Worth making the roof a bit stronger for a homemade roof mounted engine hoist? I know that's what I plan to do when I make my dream garage :)
I have just bought a bargain of a engine crane ! £25 !!!! Clarke one too haha
#15
Posted 08 October 2016 - 12:00 AM
I'm guessing the comment on the rafters is that they're not directly above an upright. I guess it depends what you're using to clad the frame and for fascia boarding.
Mind you, it is big enough to require building regs. Luckily it looks to be somewhere secluded!
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