70 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

Hi

Mini istoo col for me!
When driving the temp goes down to 70 ish degrees.
On idle it rises Back to 85°
Fitted a 88° thermostat.
Waterpump is the minispares evo one with plastic impeller.
Gauge works as it should, tested in boiling water and was 102° so quite accurate. (Capliary gauge).

I Have a plain bottom hose. No heater connected..

Was a 15° day Today.
Help!

[neal]

Looking at your photo's your appear to have a spacer to push the plastic fan closer to what looks like a high efficient alloy radiator to go with your water pump, I can't quite tell which type of water pump pulley you have and to be fair the weather is getting colder, so perhaps you have quite an efficient system and the temp gauge is reflecting accordingly to weather conditions and vehicle motion?

 

I assume you fitted a new thermostat? Nevertheless if it was me, I'd be checking the opening temperature, I use an old kettle and thermometer to check, I have known new ones to operate outside of their stated operating temp as well as old used ones so you may wish to consider this.

 

I remember years ago that radiator shields could be bought to partially cover (some were adjustable) the radiator/grill for the winter months, some people used to cut a piece of fibre board to cover a small area of the radiator or grill to reduce airflow.

 

Not sure if this helps??

Edited by neal, 15 October 2016 - 07:46 PM.

[Spider]

That does look a little low, but probably not as low as you may think, that's about were the thermostat just cracks open, though it would be worth checking the Thermostat is seating and sealing (as they do) in the head.

Also, even if it is new, you should test the Thermostat. The test procedure is it open the Thermostat a little by hand and put a short length of cotton in the valve then release it. Put it in water and slowly raise the water temp, while measuring the water temp as close as you can within the water to the thermostat. When on heating, the Thermostat opens enough to drop the cotton, that is the Crack Open Temperature of the T'stat, but this is not the rated temp of it. The Crack Open Temp for an 88 degree T'stat is actually 78 to 82 degrees.

 

If the cooling system is in good order, which yours clearly is, and there's no by-pass, the temperature in the low end is totally controlled by the Thermostat.

[Dusky]

Thanks guys!
Ill check my thermostat
Im glad that No one Said(yet) that the cooling plumbing is wrong
I do notice a difference in the engine a behavior between cool and hot. After a bit of traffic it drives a lot better !


Might Be Time to finaly convert to a copper rad again. Cooperman uses a std 3 Core (Cooper, but I think the later ones Are All the Same with 16fins/inch?)
So one of those should Be good for me, but finding a good original rad seems to be a problem. And minispares ones Are 9/fins per inch.

Why cant it Be warm All year..

[neal]

Thanks guys!
Ill check my thermostat
Im glad that No one Said(yet) that the cooling plumbing is wrong
I do notice a difference in the engine a behavior between cool and hot. After a bit of traffic it drives a lot better !


Might Be Time to finaly convert to a copper rad again. Cooperman uses a std 3 Core (Cooper, but I think the later ones Are All the Same with 16fins/inch?)
So one of those should Be good for me, but finding a good original rad seems to be a problem. And minispares ones Are 9/fins per inch.

Why cant it Be warm All year..

The thought of driving in good weather all year round.....Now there's a thought!

 

You'll need that cooling system next summer, that's if we do get a good summer (It better be, because my car will be finished next year after 8 year resto!)

[Spider]

One other thing I forgot to suggest.

 

Although you've checked your gauge at 100⁰ and found it pretty good, it would be worth checking at 60 and 80⁰ too. It may not be linear.

[neal]

Hey, while on the subject of cooling issues and apologies for hijacking this thread, but have you guys used waterless coolant by EVANS? I have read quite a bit about it but wondered if it is as good as they say?
I understand there are issues if you spring a leak as you can't add water, but was just wondering???

[neal]

Hey, while on the subject of cooling issues and apologies for hijacking this thread, but have you guys used waterless coolant by EVANS? I have read quite a bit about it but wondered if it is as good as they say?
I understand there are issues if you spring a leak as you can't add water, but was just wondering???

I've just found a couple of topics on this and I don't think I'll bother.

[Spider]

Hey, while on the subject of cooling issues and apologies for hijacking this thread, but have you guys used waterless coolant by EVANS? I have read quite a bit about it but wondered if it is as good as they say?
I understand there are issues if you spring a leak as you can't add water, but was just wondering???

 

If you look at the MSDS you'll find it's 100% Glycol, which, funny as that sounds, isn't good in that concentration as a coolant.

[neal]

Hey, while on the subject of cooling issues and apologies for hijacking this thread, but have you guys used waterless coolant by EVANS? I have read quite a bit about it but wondered if it is as good as they say?
I understand there are issues if you spring a leak as you can't add water, but was just wondering???

 
If you look at the MSDS you'll find it's 100% Glycol, which, funny as that sounds, isn't good in that concentration as a coolant.

100%.......Say no more!

[neal]

Yes no more than 50/50 giving approximately -32 degrees, any more than 50% is corrosive!.......NOT GOOD

 

 

Here's something for you to think about...........Lets say that your coolant is measuring for example a healthy -20 degrees but you can't tell how old it is or its general condition such as if the coolant becoming corrosive due to old age and the freezing protection is beginning to drop.

 

If you do a volt drop test from the negative terminal of the battery I.e. connect negative cable of your multimeter to the battery negative and put the positive cable of your multimeter into the coolant in your radiator then take a reading (making sure you don't touch the radiator itself) you can carry out a volt drop test of the condition of your coolant. Then connect the positive cable to your engine block and take another reading, compare the readings. The multimeter must be set to volts DC and engine running, preferably warm/hot coolant as this increases electrolytic corrosion due to a higher volt drop.

 

If your coolant has too much rust in it would you get a potential difference to the engine block? If so, then surely will this initiate electrolytic corrosion in the water jacket eating your away at your metallic parts, whether it be cylinder head/block or alloy components such as your water pump?

 

Just a thought that I'm sure will provoke a healthy debate...... I hope?

 

Any more than 0.8 volt drop then I change mine.

Edited by neal, 16 October 2016 - 12:19 AM.

[Dusky]

Maybe I should put Evans in and it ll heat up a bit better then...
If Evans was so good there would Be more People making a similar thing.

Guess Ill Just order the minispares rad, or bit the bullet and Buy the one from minisport..they still have a 16fins/inch rad, but I'm scared to Buy it..

[Steve220]

Where's the sender for the gauge located?

[Dusky]

Standard location Just beneath the thermostat housing , it is mounted with an adapter,but I dont think that makes anydifference ( car was perfectly hot with the Old cam (Bigger HP ) and the Same rad

[racingbob]

mine runs cold in the autumn winter

 

i just run the revotec electric fan only then

 

i dont have an inner wing which may throw things round a bit

 

using new standard rad

 

in the summer i can get a single blade fan on without taking out rad

 

but can get a bit warm on hot days, so maybe a 2 core at some stage