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Steering Rack Overhaul - Uk Type Mkii


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#1 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:19 AM

I've put this together as a guide for overhauling the UK manufactured and fitted MKII Steering Racks.

 

As this involves Steering on your Mini, if you are at all unsure or uncertain about any of this, then don't try it on. Overhaul at your own risk!

 

001_zpsfezmdzxo.jpg

 

I'm not exactly sure what years this particular Rack covers, however it would appear it was a 'popular' type of Rack, from various documents it would appear that these were first fitted in 1967 and went on right to the end, however I have come across a few other UK types that appear to have also been OEM.

 

To assist with this particular Rack, here's some identifiers

 

002_zpsigicsgd7.jpg

 

003_zpsn8mvfhhl.jpg

 

005a_zpsyiuat1vc.jpg

 

005_zpsavbikp7z.jpg

 

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and of course, the fabled Plastic Plug

 

004_zps2adivdwn.jpg

 

First job is to remove the Boots. Caution, it maybe filled with Oil, so you'll want to be prepared for that and a means of draining it. This particular one was loaded with Grease, which I understand was done in the factory for a while

 

007_zpsrmoskkpn.jpg

 

This particular Rack came from a late Australian Moke, so it's been modified at our Factory with Lock Stops

 

008_zpsaabuqfre.jpg

 

For most Mini application, just ignore these throughout this thread, however the later cars that were fitted with 13" wheels from the Factory were fitted with a similar stop.

 

After removing the Boots and Draining any Oil, next job is to remove the Tie Rods. I have a Pipe Vice for holding the Racks to make this (and a few other jobs) easier, however, you could also use some shaped timbers in a vice so you v=can grip the Rack Body without crushing it or damaging it.

 

009_zpsiaocpfqp.jpg

 

Part 2 to follow

 



#2 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:25 AM

Then undo the Lock Nut. The correct Tool is actually a 'C' Spanner. Here's mine!

 

010a_zpsjz7wmafc.jpg

 

If you don't have a suitable C Spanner, you can usually get away with using Vice or Mole Grips, just go easy so you don't squash them. Here I have a set on the Lock Nut

 

010_zpsz5b7qatq.jpg

 

and here (I've removed that set from the Lock Nut for clarity) on the Main Nut, NOTE I've only gripped by the lower section, this is important!

 

011_zpszuobkmjx.jpg

 

Loosen the Locknut while holding firm the Main Nut. Note that it will need some force as these two nuts are not only tightened up but also 'staked' together.

 

Once the Locknut has been loosened, the Main Nut usually comes off easy

 

012_zps9639yfac.jpg

 

Jumping one step ahead here, under the Main Nut is the Tire Rod Ball Seat careful you don't loose or damage it!

 

013_zpsazmn67cu.jpg

 

Undo the Tie Rod Main Nut all the way off

 

014_zps9anufcwk.jpg

 

Then carefully lift out the Seat

 

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and the Spring

 

016_zpst3eibezq.jpg

 

017_zpsztw0gcfk.jpg

 

Remove the other end the same way.

 

Next up, remove the Plastic Plug so it doesn't get damaged

 

018a_zpseaue197y.jpg

 

part 3 coming up......



#3 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:30 AM

then undo the Yoke Plate. Careful! There's shims under there

 

019_zps86aueqjz.jpg

 

021_zpsnnhzefx4.jpg

 

022_zpsruzizinl.jpg

 

NOTE the length of the Bolts here. We'll come back to these at a later point

 

020_zpssecdgt2i.jpg

 

Now we remove the Yoke. To aid in this, push the Inner Rack as shown

 

024_zpssoaoczif.jpg

 

Out it comes

 

025_zpsgjhpgzjd.jpg

 

There's an O ring fitted to the Yoke to seal it up

 

026_zpseeljhgdv.jpg

 

Not the best idea, but that's what it is

 

and the Yoke

 

027_zpsnvrljdsu.jpg

 

Yuk!

 

028_zpskx0x7uam.jpg

 

OK, next Up, we can remove the Pinion Assembly. Undo these Bolts

 

029_zpsjypevxvy.jpg

 

stay tuned for part 4,,,,,,



#4 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:35 AM

Note the length of these Bolts;-

 

030_zpsyx8vlcxa.jpg

 

Similar but ever so slightly shorter than those from the Yoke, as seen here

 

031_zps8muiptcj.jpg

 

When re-assembling, be sure to fit the right Bolts back in the right location, or the Rack will lock up and it'll take you days to work out why!

 

Note that this cover has a gasket fitted. 999 times out of 1000 I've found if treated carefully, they can be re-used. I do this, not so much to be 'tight' but the exact thickness of these Gaskets affects the Shimming of the Pinion Bearings and 999 times out of 1000 these don't need re-adjusting, so if re-assembled as found, most times you'll find that the shimming is OK and you don't need to go hunting for shims, which are NLA. 

 

Gently push on the Pinion and the Shims and Spacer will come out first

 

033_zpsoqbo7fee.jpg

 

034_zpsg7rwh9lw.jpg

 

It may at first look like 2 thick spacers, but there's a few shims in there when prodded

 

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keep pushing the Pinion, and the Lower Bearing will come out

 

037_zps7o4hrwi2.jpg

 

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Then keep going and the Pinion itself will come out

 

039_zpspou4qhxq.jpg

 

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Then the Inner Rack can be withdrawn from the Body

 

042_zpso0rbneb4.jpg

 

part 5 on the way,,,,,,



#5 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:46 AM

At the Passenger's end, there's a small Phillips Head Screw, Remove that

 

043_zps44gquf1m.jpg

 

It's purpose is to hold in the Bush, which is in here

 

044_zpswscjxhbh.jpg

 

One way of getting that Bush out is with a long bent rod, viz

 

045_zpsrdhvg2es.jpg

 

Inserted from the Driver's end and until it lands on the Bush,

 

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and a couple of light taps. the Bush will come out

 

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The Bush itself is mounted in to a Pressed Steel Housing. While new Bushes are obtainable, you'll need to re-use that Housing, so don't damage it.

 

The rolled over end faces the outside when fitted.

 

 

At this pint the Outer Race of the Upper Pinion Bearing can be removed.

 

To make life much easier, heat the Rack Housing in Boiling Water for about 5 - 10 minutes - I don't recommend any other way of heating it.

 

Then bang the end of the Housing down hard on some timber.

 

047a_zpsuo7t6wqd.jpg

 

 

Last job remove the Pinion Oil Seal

 

047b_zpsf5wndsdd.jpg

 

 

 

So, now you should have it all in bits.

 

Give everything a really good clean up. After De-greasing all the parts, I Wire Wheel them so I can Inspect them.

 

Here's the Pinion. I've inserted arrows to show what really needs to be looked at in high detail, I usually use a magnifying glass and do it in the sunlight

 

049_zpszz8kfzjk.jpg

 

The part that the Seal runs on needs to be blemish free. As much as it's there to keep Oil in, it's also to keep water out. The Teeth of course need to have no wear and no cracks.

 

If any cracks are found, then I'd recommend in the strongest terms to scrap the entire rack as it's clear that it's had some abuse, the extent of which would likely largely be unknown.

 

Also, the ends of the Teeth that locate against the bearings.

 

The Inner Rack

 

050_zpsrgvap5ql.jpg

 

Again, the Teeth need a good looking at in the same way as the Pinion and if any Cracks are found, scrap it. It's just not worth the risk.

 

The back of the Rack, where the Yoke runs also wears. Those that were assembled with Grease fare far worse in this dept than those that were filled with Oil

 

051a_zps8k1fofit.jpg

 

051_zpsfyvkfrqz.jpg

 

part 6  coming,,,,,,,,


Edited by Moke Spider, 22 November 2016 - 01:13 AM.


#6 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:55 AM

and the Bushed end

 

051b_zpspwn7jknd.jpg

 

Inspect the Main Housing / Body

 

Down where the upper Pinion Bearing seat

 

052_zpsfts0qfl8.jpg

 

the Yoke housing

 

053_zpsxunfihep.jpg

 

check it for feel with the Yoke, if there's any noticeable side movement, check with a feel gauge, no more than 0.0015"

 

055_zpszvhlhgzr.jpg

 

If it has more than 0.0015" play, then it can be safely assembled and used, however it won't have a nice tight feel about it.

 

Pinion Bearings. Usually these are good, I don't replace these as a matter of course, only if need be

 

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They are hard to find these days. There's no UK supplier I am aware of who has them, however they are obtainable from a few Australian suppliers.

 

The Tie Rod Ball

 

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and it's Seat - Check for Cracks and Splits

 

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Check the Spring for Cracks

 

And the Tie Rod Nut Ball Seat

 

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Shims

 

060_zps9mhtt52k.jpg

 

Yoke Cover - check that the Yoke hasn't hammered a divot in to it and that's it's flat

 

062_zpshsyizsk7.jpg



#7 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 08:00 AM

Part 7

 

Same for the Pinion Bearing Cover (note the Gasket as mentioned earlier)

 

061_zps4p8e1utm.jpg

 

Bearing Shims

 

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Yoke Spring - Check for Cracks

 

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Now to start assembling if all checks out

 

Fit the Upper Pinion Bearing

 

065_zpswfvrrs6f.jpg

 

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then the Pinion itself

 

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the Lower Bearing

 

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At this point we'd 'normally' check for Bearing Preload by meaning how far proud the Bearings are, but from my experience, I've found measuring it a little hit and miss due to the Bearings being an Angular Thrust type, so they tend to roll around rather than sit flat. The Factory state the Preload needs to be 0.001 to 0.003". I usually reassemble them as they came apart, with all the shims etc that were in and feel it. The Pionon should just and really do mean only just, be able to be turned with your fingers and while quite firm. it must be smooth all the way around.

 

070_zpskzkfcwbo.jpg

 

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Adjust if need be, though you might need to be inventive if looking for Shims, One possible source might be those used on the crankshaft sprockets for the timing gear, however, these only come in 0.005".

 

Once you have the Pinion right, take it apart and set it to one side.

 

part 8 to follow

 



#8 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 08:01 AM

Next up is to re-fit the Bush. You'll want to replace the Bush itself (sorry, I didn't on this one, so no pics, but there's not much to it)

 

Line up the hole for the retaining screw

 

072_zpsthywrsay.jpg

 

Drive it in, don't go Ape as they don't need much force to go all the way home - Rolled Side of the Housing out!

 

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Check the Holes

 

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Then apply some sealant, my favorite for this job

 

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a dab under the screw

 

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then replace the screw

 

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Note this screw is very short, about 4 - 5 mm. Don't try anything longer!

 

Insert the Inner Rack

 

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turn it so the Teeth are in the right orientation

 

080_zpss7vmfozo.jpg

 

and Centralise it

 

081_zpsa0rs2emf.jpg

 

part 9,,,,,,



#9 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 08:20 AM

Then re-fit the Pinion

 

083_zpstmgt5ujt.jpg

 

however if it has the single scallop for the Pinch Bolt, be sure to put it in with the correct Indexing

 

084_zpsb5k4xq14.jpg

 

This is so that the Indicator Canceller ends up in the right place (not applicable to all models, though good practice all the same) and also so the Steering Lock indexes correctly

 

Re-fit the Bearing and Shims as before, then apply some Sealant to the Gasket

 

085_zpsqtrxeeej.jpg

 

and fit the Bearing Cover back on using the 2 Shorter Bolts

 

Slowly move the Inner Rack over to one side, this should be done in while turning the Pinion

 

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then fit the Yoke

 

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and the O Ring (which is a BS212 sized O Ring)

 

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Don't fit the Yoke Spring at this point

 

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The Yoke should stand slightly proud of the Body. Check the how far proud and select a suitable Shim to Load the Yoke by 0.002 to 0.005".

 

Fit the Yoke Cover at this point with the selected Shim

 

092_zpscld9tjij.jpg

 

Centralise the Rack and check for Play. The Play can be checked in a number of ways, however one of the best is to see if the Inner can be rotated to any degree. You'll be able to get some rotation out of it, and while not easy to put a number to it, if you can get more than about 0.020" 'rotation' at the circumference of the Inner Rack, then it really need to be tighter.

 

We shim at on the of the 'Turned' Steering Movements, as this is where the Rack will have the least wear, so we don't want it too tight here, or it might be embarrassing! After Shimming, we check how effective that has been in the Centraised position as this is where it will have the most wear.

 

It'll take a bit of tooing and foing to hopefully arrive at a happy medium, though, if there is a fair bit of wear, you might not be able to 'get there' by shimming alone. This is a non-standard practice, but I take a lick of a few thousands off the shaft around the Toothed end in the Lathe, certainly no more than 0.005". If you do this, you want to end up with a good surface finish, grinding would be best, but what you can get with a tipped tool I've found quite acceptable. Then refit, reshim.

 

The more time and care that's taken here, the better the car will 'feel' when it's all assembled.

 

Once you've got the Yoke Shimming sorted, take the Yoke Cover off again, and then fit the Spring

 

094_zpsposd0ycg.jpg

 

part 10 to follow - almost there!


Edited by Moke Spider, 01 January 2017 - 01:52 AM.


#10 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 08:46 AM

Next up is to fit the Tie Rods

 

Clamp up the rack Body as was done when disassembling and wind on the Locknut, wind it down out of the way

 

095_zpseenyv6ur.jpg

 

the Spring

 

096_zpsqv0bas2h.jpg

 

Check the Seat has it's Washer - very important!

 

097_zpsaowkal28.jpg

 

Fit the Seat

 

098_zpsymkbfrwc.jpg

 

apply some Moly Grease to the Ball of the Tie Rod at this point. The Main Nut isn't slotted or grooved, so Oil isn't going to get in there too easy.

 

Then fit the Tie Rod with the Main Nut

 

099_zpsbnvub5ts.jpg

 

Wind down the Nut, by hand preferably, while pushing down as indicated by the arrow every 1/2 a turn, keep winding just until all the play has gone, then wind on a further 1/8 turn.

 

Lock up the Main Nut with the Lock Nut

 

Do the same the other end

 

Fit the Pinion Seal. Wind some Tape over the shaft to avoid damaging the Seal

 

101_zps3kgr9gzs.jpg

 

Fit the Seal over the Shaft

 

102_zps0i9pn5wi.jpg

 

then drift the Seal in until it's just flush

 

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however, note that as the Pinion isn't square to the Body, the Seal should be cocked off a little

 

104_zpsnanonkuv.jpg

 

Fit up the Boot to the Passenger's end. I like to apply some Sealant to the Body (only - not the the Tie Rod)

 

105_zpsecbawb8u.jpg

 

It's worth checking that the Screw on the Clip isn't going to dig in to the Boot on full lock

 

106_zpsgn3dyx7c.jpg

 

if it looks like it will, then I fit a longer screw to the clip and then a Dome Nut to the end of the Screw

 

107_zpsu6fdbl6a.jpg

 

TIP: Don't use Cable Ties for on the Boots or the Rack will leak for sure. The Original Clips are best, but if you haven't got them, look for Fuel Hose Clips, generally in the 11 - 14 mm range, not the usual Worm Drive types though, just those that look like these ^.  CBS have 'Flattie' Cable Ties that are quite suitable for the Big End.

 

Here's a clamp I did find new    http://minikingdomon...ose-boot-clamp/

 

I would recommend refilling the Rack with Oil. Up to about the late 1970's these Racks were Oil Filled and the Factory manuals still recommend this. The correct Oil is a 90 weight and it will need 200 ml. To fill them, I stand them up, with the Pinion end upper most and slowly tip the Oil in that end. It won't take it all in one go, so be warned, it will want to burb. Usually about 3 or 4 goes is less messy!

 

Then fit the Boot on the Drivers end.

 

That's it, easy :D

 

By doing them yourself, you can not only save money, but also end up with a superior Rack to a new one

 

The Bush are still available from most suppliers P/N 37H8064

 

Bearings, don't seem to be available in the UK, however we have a few local suppliers who have them, P/N BTA662   http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product/steering-rack-pinion-bearing/   though it's seldom these need replacing.

 

Pinion Seal P/N  17H6293

 

Boots P/N GRV205 (I would recommend the Unipart boxed ones)

 

Yoke O Ring  BS212



#11 sledgehammer

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 10:54 AM

This needs pinning it so everyone can find it easy

 

really good job Mokespider

 

can you show this to some 're-conditioners' over in the UK please - as most don't seem to know / bother to do any of this

 

over the years , I've had several racks , that were wiped down , new boots , quick spray , & they were magically 'reconditioned'

 

good to know some people know - or are bothered to do the job right

 

the annoying thing is , once you have done several , they aren't that hard to do

 

but I must confess - it's been years since I've had to do anything to one , so this guide is a great refresher

 

- I did spend a few seconds looking at 'marks' on the rack face , trying to fathom how it had worn like that - only to realise it was the moke grill water mark - DOH !!!



#12 Elf is a mini

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 11:21 AM

This is awesome!

#13 slidehammer

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 02:57 PM

Great guide, thank you for taking the time to put it all together



#14 Stevie W

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 05:14 PM

Really great and informative guide Moke Spider!!! as above it would be nice to pin this. :proud:



#15 Steve8274

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Posted 12 November 2016 - 07:56 PM

Thanks for the info




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