30 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

Plug welds are all you need.

 

 

 

I normally use either 3/16th or 1/4" holes spaced at 1" intervals.

[30 mm]

Ok so the last pic.

 

Please explain how you got that done.  Its killing me.

 

30

[sonikk4]

Ok here is a quarter panel i did on my sons car. If you look along all of the flanges you will see i have drilled 1/4" holes approx 1" apart.

 

Then in the next picture you can see where i have plug welded the panel on. The front edge has exactly the same process.

[30 mm]

Got IT!

 

Somewhat confused as to where i went wrong cause the front had to overlap causing the small gap. 

 

Either way let me order a new panel.  Ill keep this going once the metal comes in and Ill advise.

 

Thanks so much for your time and effort.

 

30

[sonikk4]

No worries.

[Marco1972]

Follow sonics advice
His work is top notch you're not far
Once you sort your quater panel out your door will fit much better

Mark

[30 mm]

Here is the latest.  Still a gap issue.

 

Ive follwed the direction to the letter.  Im confused now.  So its got to be the front but where do I start?

 

30

 

I cant seem to upload other pics without them being so pixilated they are useless

Attached Files

•  door-rear-gap(1).jpg   19.42K   24 downloads

Edited by 30 mm, 19 December 2016 - 09:15 PM.

[sonikk4]

We really need to see the front as well now. You should be able to load pictures on using Phorobucket without issues.

[30 mm]

Hows this Neil?

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks!

[sonikk4]

Without going into too much detail tonight I see the quarter panel is a Magnum item so the fit on the front where it meets the door is slightly out.

I had this issue on my friends car and I had to dress that front flange back a bit and also reshape the section of the B pillar where it meets the window frame. Now when you look at the front of the panel with the door open, is there a gap where it welds to the B post?? If so then you may have to cut a slot down the height of the panel to move the front flange back.

If however it is tight to the B post then the issue will lie on the A post where I see you have added gussets either side of the hinge mounting points. It's possible this has distorted through too much heat.

Won't say anymore in this tonight as I'm off to bed and my IPad battery is about dead.

Let us know if there is a gap between the new panel front return and the B pillar where it will mount to.

[neal]

I had a very similar problem with mine, I made sure that the rear quarter panel where it joins the back panel was pulled up nice and tight with vice grips. By doing this the quarter panel lip on the 'B' post was in turn pulled nice and tight.

But to do this I made sure that the new panel didn't overlap the 'C' post (bottom left of the rear quarter window)in the tight corner, as this tends to throw the quarter panel forward tightening up your gap on the door gap adjoining the window frame and raising your quarter panel swage line up a fraction. (then as a result, you will be raising your door up for the swage line to match thus tightening up your door gap near the roof, then ending up with a big gap at the bottom of your door to sill step.

The radii on Magnum quarter panels when pressed and stamped out are quite large; so where the tight spot is next to your door window frame, I.E. the quarter panel external radius that wraps around the 'B' post can be gently hammered tightening up the radius (panel hammer required gentle taps), remember the cold weather so gentle heat using a heat gun will help, no need to use a big flame, but gently tightening up that radius will help give you the gap you need.

If you can't quite get this gap quite as it should be, then as Sonikk4 mentioned you can shave a little off the door hinge face that bolts directly to your door, effectively this will allow your door to move forward a fraction of maybe 1-1.5mm and bolt onto the 'A' post hinge pillar.

With regard to the front leading edge of the door gap where it meets the 'A' panel, trial fit the 'A' panel and lightly clamp it in place (don't weld in just yet)start jiggling the 'A' panel around (very little movement here but it all helps) but remember to follow the seam of the 'A' post lip, you don't want to throw out your wing fitment, so again, jiggling panels around to fit.

I'm not sure if this makes sense to you as describing as opposed to physically showing you is a difficult task, I can say that Sonikk4 photos are good and should help you loads.

In essence, its all about jiggling the panels time and time again without welding making sure all panels fit in the right place, if you don't take your time the knock-on effect will be a panel that is way out of alignment, I suppose the theory is like dropping a pebble in the pond and the ripples extending out causing a subsequent panel to be way out, try small self tappers to hold the rear quarter panel down the 'B' post that way you can close the door.

Edited by neal, 20 December 2016 - 01:14 AM.

[neal]

To be fair after looking at your photos again, you're not that far out and with more time you will sort that.

[30 mm]

I nailed it today!  Literally.

 

Massive hammer and a block of wood and moved the front of the door forward.  result is as shown.

 

Thanks so much guys for the pics and explanations.

 

30

 

 

[Marco1972]

Lol

You can't beat a block of wood and a big hammer

Looking good mate well done

Mark

[30 mm]

Well Im back.

 

The door gap has moved back into place it seems.  For the worse and I can't seem to line the front end at all.  Here are the pics of the front.  Seems so close yet so far away.

 

Any guidance would be great.

 

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