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A Pair Of 64 Mk1 850S


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#31 jamesmpi

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 08:31 PM

Good work so far. Will look stunning when finished

#32 racingenglishcars

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 01:07 PM

Couldn't work on either vehicle this week. I'm sort of on a business trip to India.

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#33 racingenglishcars

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 02:41 PM

Well, I'm back from India. So we had an opportunity to do a bit of work on Peter's blue Mini.

Firstly we again ensured the vehicle was level. I couldn't get hold of the spot welder from our local diy garage so we decided to plug-weld the panel.

We couldn't drill the holes in place so we removed the rear panel, made holes with a hole punch, drilled them out to 1/4 inch, cleaned the shavings and aligned the panels again. Then all the plug welds but only on the back panel to the window frames and back fenders. Not to the floor because we want to be sure the boot floor and main floor are correct again. 

 

After that we pulled most of the front off.

 

That's it for last night.

 

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#34 racingenglishcars

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 07:29 PM

Tonight I felt like welding a bit, so...

I saw the first image on one of the forums as a wall ornament...

 

Then I looked in my junk bin...

 

Then I gathered all the surrounding junk...  (yes, the bonnet is smashed bent rusted and fiberglass filled)

 

And woopsi...

 

After that I decided to do edges around rear left fender... until I ran out of wire. :(  So there are still some small holes that need filling, but I guess the rest of the car still needs a few holes filled.

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#35 racingenglishcars

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 12:14 PM

New toy for tomorrow night :)

 

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#36 racingenglishcars

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 02:58 PM

Well, big disappointment this week. Not enough done. Main problem was that the spot welder didn't  work. I didn't test it first, just because it worked fine when I did my Frogeye a few years ago. Turned out that it runs a two wire solenoid switch powered by a timer circuit. The solenoid wouldn't engage. I looked thoroughly at it and found a broken spring in the solenoid, but that shouldn't be the whole problem. An anomaly showed that the primary circuit was wired 220 VAC but the cover plate was written 380 V. The cable wires were blue, brown and ground. The model is available both as 240V or 380V and it is possible that someone switched the cover plate, but when I read on the solenoid that it was 380V, I suspected that whomever wired it last time used a blue wire instead of a black, which would indicate no neutral and two phase wires. When the last guy put an European type 5 pin connector on, replacing the Danish 5 pin connector, he connected the blue wire to 0 as required, and therefore the welder was only getting 240V.

 

Tim did actually remove the inner fenders and sand the edges in preparation for spot welding.

 

I will begin to spot weld this afternoon.



#37 racingenglishcars

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Posted 06 March 2017 - 03:16 PM

Well, after finding out the cable was wired wrong, and exactly how it should be wired, I got everything working. I lost the helpers Tuesday, so I just did it myself on the weekend. Then I full welded the right rear fender. Oh yes, then rust on the 53 motorcycle sidecar, and the 51 Willys wheel cylinders, and even a friends copper wedding. Busy weekend!

 

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#38 racingenglishcars

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 10:13 AM

Another Tuesday night with some good work. :)

 

Tim (Peter's son) who actually is responsible for buying this project, (though at the time he thought is was a well restored car) got the chance to clean all edges and re-fit the rear right inner fender pending spot welding (picture1). 

 

Peter meanwhile continued on removing the windscreen frame in preparation of refitting the replacement from M-machine. This screen surround contains quite a bit of structure so the old structure was painstakingly disassembled leaving just the minimal original metal remaining. The firewall will soon be completely cleaned, rust repaired and epoxy primed before installing the new windscreen frame.

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#39 racingenglishcars

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 12:42 PM

OK, since last week, I have spot welded the rear inner fender, cleaned up all the plug welds on the rear panel, cleaned away un-needed structure and test fitted several times the windscreen surround. Then started with a thorough cleaning of the front plate with the desire to paint all in-accessable areas with epoxy primer before mounting the surround.

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#40 racingenglishcars

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Posted 17 March 2017 - 01:50 PM

Last night I just worked a bit on the A-posts to clean the internal rust and replace the flange. I put them on with the spot welder and it worked surprisingly well.

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#41 racingenglishcars

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 12:31 PM

Saturday  Peter and I arranged to drive to ÅKM in Thisted. It's quite a drive from Copenhagen, 5 hours each way. Georg Mikkelsen there is quite a character, talks non-stop, about many interesting things, racing Minis in the old days, people he knows, places he's been etc. Turns out he knows my old master's thesis counselor. That is expected because for my master's thesis I used a test engine which was a Mini 1275 with the ÅKM 7 port head. 

 

Anyway, Georg had a 1275 A+ from a Metro, a reasonable price on a 7.5 inch disk brake kit (mostly shipping costs), and a MK1 double panel boot lid which I just had to have.

After talking and looking at his stuff for about 4 hours, we drove home.

 

Along the way we must have driven too close to Mørke (a town in Jylland whose name means "dark"), because i caught a cold/throat infection from which I am still not back to work on Wednesday. But still I am glad for the trip, not least because I now have a couple new toys for my car.

 

Today I was checking the A+ engine. 0.020 planed head, new valve job, standard cam, worn lifters, excellent pistons. With the GEG300 gasket I got with the engine it should have a CR of 10.2.  

 

I have a cam which I bought off a guy here many years ago, which looks a lot like a Kent 276, but I should measure it again to be sure.

 

Then there's the fact that the gearbox has a 3.44 final drive. I don't know if this will be good enough.

 

Regarding peter's car:

I tested the fit of the windscreen surround so on the Tuesday night work evening I had Peter clean up all the rusty metal inside the A posts and the top of the firewall, then again cleaned with phosphor acid, rinsed with water, dried with heat gun, finally painting with epoxy primer.

 

 

 

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#42 racingenglishcars

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 04:25 PM

While feeling a bit better this afternoon, I decided to do something with the "fuse box hole." When cleaned up I'm sure it will look fine.

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#43 racingenglishcars

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Posted 28 March 2017 - 08:08 PM

Well, last weekend I welded the windscreen frame in place. Because the main floor is not yet spotted to the foot panel, I was reluctant to remove the entire front inner wings, so I only removed the top 15 cm or so and fitted a small upper corner repair section while installing the windscreen frame. I didn't manage to get a snap of these pieces.

 

Being a Mk1, I couldn't have 4 windscreen wiper holes in the scuttle plate. So I had to close a couple off.

 

After test fitting the windscreen surround I found that the top corners are slightly different between the Mk1 and Mk3. The Mk1 door is a bit lower so the roof-edge-surround-inner-structure is wider and the screen surround should match up with that, but doesn't, so I had to make it do just that.

 

This evening when Tim came by (Peter is in Greece) we finished up the rear seat back and welded it to the seat bottom / boot floor & rear inner wings. Sorry no snap yet either.

 

Affixing the main floor is next, although it is held with bolts / welding grips, I want to re-check fitting of as much as possible first. To that end, I'm removing the front subframe from my red Mini to test fitment on the blue one. While it's out, I can clean it up and fit the new engine and brakes. Also clean up the underside of the red car.

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Edited by racingenglishcars, 28 March 2017 - 08:18 PM.


#44 racingenglishcars

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 04:56 PM

Over the weekend I built some stairs in the summer house, but that's not interesting. I also pulled the front subframe from my red Mini and stripped it down. It is actually quite nice so just a bit of surface rust preparation, epoxy primer, and black paint should do fine. I don't have any sport goodies so I just might buy some. Adjustable camber and hi-los would be very nice.

 

I don't have a Mk1 grille so I just for fun cut one out of a bit of 1mm stencil plate which I painted yellow back when I was painting my Frogeye. I know it looks awful, but maybe I can do something with it.

 

in the meantime, I used the front subframe on Peter's car to align the front of the floor. We took a special trip up to his place to get his rear subframe because it's complete and assembled so we could align the rear floor. 

 

We then tried to mount it on the floor heel board and boot mounting holes for floor alignment, but we couldn't really get the bolts to catch. Like the heel board captive nuts were just a bit too narrow. In desperation we just pulled the entire floor out and mounted the subframe while all was sitting on the floor. That worked fine and then we just mounted the entire thing back in the shell. The front and rear subframe holes lined up exactly as did the shifter hole and everything else we could check. Well then it seemed like the thing to do is to tack the floor in place. Done.

 

Next time, maybe just lot of welding, though I really want to get something done on my engine.

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Edited by racingenglishcars, 05 April 2017 - 05:00 PM.


#45 racingenglishcars

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 10:04 PM

We didn't get to weld the floor in because Tim (the one who purchased this rust bucket) isn't in town. I wanted him to do a lot of welding because he has to do some of the hard work. (And he bought the rust). 

 

Instead Peter and I, after a bit of fettling, determined the shell straight enough and cut the roof off. This because it had a stupid sun roof installed.

 

Then we cleaned up the rain gutters best possible and pulled the drip rails off. We are making new drip rails though in a slightly different style from the factory (1.5mm plate, single bend) , and we have lots of rust to repair on the gutters.

 

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