19 replies to this topic

[mini_matt_106]

Pictures speak a thousand words...





So this is my starting point :/

One expensive trip to Wickes and a slow drive home got me all the wood I need for a new pair of barn doors.



From that I cut out my basic framework with diagonals and clamped it up with a pair of sash clamps

[Richie83]

Great effort so far. What are you cladding it in?

[mini_matt_106]

Really I should have done lap joints but I didn't think about that when I cut the frame oh well
I then made a pocket drill jig so I can screw all the parts together, if you don't know what a pocket hole is I've tried to explain it in pictures how I made it but basically it's so you don't have to use 5" screws!

Drill a hole through a block of wood first










And if you've cut it right, your screw comes out in the centre of the wood!
You can buy jigs that do this but I'm cheap! Haha

Then I went round the frame and drilled my pocket holes ready to screw it all together

[mini_matt_106]

Great effort so far. What are you cladding it in?

Thanks Richie, I've got tongue and groove to cover the outside, hopefully it should look good with some varnish! Not keen on paint.

[Ethel]

You could make the bottom horizontals a few inches off the floor so they're less likely to rot.

[slidehammer]

Good work, if you had paid someone to do it I doubt they would have jointed it just screwed it similar to you. Will be plenty strong enough with the cladding on. Good luck with them.

[mini_matt_106]

You could make the bottom horizontals a few inches off the floor so they're less likely to rot.

That's not a bad idea actually, I can't remember how much of a gap I left but I'm replacing the framework in the aperture so might make the top taller

[mini_matt_106]

Good work, if you had paid someone to do it I doubt they would have jointed it just screwed it similar to you. Will be plenty strong enough with the cladding on. Good luck with them.

Thanks, I'm hoping the tongue and groove will strengthen it up plenty, I will be gluing the frame as well as screwing it so should be good strong joints

[venkman]

Must be garage door rebuild season!! Just made two myself similar frame but I used big coach screws and glue,then clad it with a sheet of 12mm marine ply and sprayed black.

A small note but you may be aware, I had to use heavier duty hinges in the end as it weighed quite a bit more than before!!

[mini_matt_106]

15 minutes back in the cold garage and we have one glued and screwed frame :) happy it seemed to go quite well, considering I haven't really done anything this big before I'm pleased.

[mini_matt_106]

Must be garage door rebuild season!! Just made two myself similar frame but I used big coach screws and glue,then clad it with a sheet of 12mm marine ply and sprayed black.

A small note but you may be aware, I had to use heavier duty hinges in the end as it weighed quite a bit more than before!!

Must be!
I started it in the summer but had other priorities that got in the way like getting married :)

I think I will re-use the hinges there as I know they are strong enough to hold the big doors!

[slidehammer]

 

Good work, if you had paid someone to do it I doubt they would have jointed it just screwed it similar to you. Will be plenty strong enough with the cladding on. Good luck with them.

Thanks, I'm hoping the tongue and groove will strengthen it up plenty, I will be gluing the frame as well as screwing it so should be good strong joints

 

That will as strong if not stronger than any wooden doors you could buy. Plus you have the advantage of getting any preserver on as you build them up. Get plenty on the bottom before you hang them.

[mini_matt_106]

So I left that frame overnight for the glue to dry properly then got in the garage this morning and put the heater on!
Brrr November is cold!

The wood is treated but I don't really trust that so out came the yacht varnish to get a good waterproof coat betweenthe frame and the t&g.



Now onto the next door, the same as the first but with the diagonals flipped.
The diagonals carry the load of the door in compression toward the hinge side and this prevents 'racking' or sagging.

[mini_matt_106]

Next I had to work out how much overhang I would have so I can cut the t&g








So that's 40mm too wide (20mm each side off the end slats)
And 48mm off the length.

Out comes the chop saw


And once you get too confident you get mistakes like this




Hopefully I can hide it with some trim as I had the exact number of boards!

[mini_matt_106]

I decided the easiest way to trim the edges would be a router or plane at the end so set my 20mm offset and screwed on the first board then a couple more.


And carried on until I had this!


1 down, 1 to go!