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Relay Pack Function And Starting Problems


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#1 TylerW53

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Posted 15 December 2016 - 05:45 PM

Hi there. Got a 1994 spi and had it for a number of years. Got a problem with it not starting. About 2 months ago I had problems with starting. I could turn the key and the engine crank but had no fuel pump or ignition light. Naturally o checked all the fuses and plugs and found them to be fine. After some time it would eventually play ball for unknown reasons and start. It did this a number of times over the period of two weeks and then stopped doing it and behaved. Happy days I thought.

Two months down the line, today it's done the same thing again. Engine will crank but got no ignition light or fuel pump. However I do have a spark.

I have read through Flying Scots threads about the spi system and my thoughts are that it's a faulty main relay pack. Is it possible to dissemble the relay pack and clean up contacts? I would appreciate it if anyone could let me know their experiences and could suggest anything to help.

Cheers Tyler

#2 FlyingScot

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Posted 17 December 2016 - 12:51 AM

You called....

Yes you can carefully split the pack open with a sharp craft knife (later ones are heavily glued). That's how I took the pictures.
Test with a multimeter first before going to all the bother though. A meter set to ohms across the contacts will give a clue.

FS

#3 TylerW53

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 06:03 PM

Quite a while down the line I know, but just incase anyone else has a similar problem in the future I thought I'd update. Upon inspection of the wiring I found that the exciter wire for the alternator (brown with orange trace) had broken. Which is why there was no ignition light when the key was turned. Joined the wire back together and there was life. Fuel pump spark and vroom

Flying Scott could the alternator exciter wire also power up the ecu or relay pack?

Tyler

#4 Sprocket

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Posted 22 July 2017 - 07:13 PM

The charge warning light in the clocks is fed by the same 12v that feeds the relay pack and the ECU (all with a white wire). Same fuse. 12v is supplied from the ignition switch on a white wire to a fuse, and then from there it feeds the ECU, relay pack and the clocks.

 

Word of caution. There is a diode in the brown/ yellow wire preventing the alternator back feeding 12v and holding the ECU 'live'. Without the diode, the engine will miraculously keep running even after you have withdrawn the key from the ignition switch.






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