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An Old Favourite - Rusty Heel Panel


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#16 camrocok

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 10:43 PM

Mini2_zpsqkxbjjxn.jpg

 

Mini3_zps4cjmiyy0.jpg

 

Decided I am neither a mechanic or an IT techie!!!



#17 camrocok

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Posted 26 December 2016 - 10:44 PM

It is the enlarged drainage holes I am worried about.  The bigger they are the closer they are getting together!



#18 tiger99

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 03:29 PM

Just so we all know what we are talking about, that is actually the TOEBOARD. The HEELBOARD is at the other end, under the back seat. But the holes are actually in the FLOOR.

There is evidence of structural corrosion and you are going to need at least several panels replaced. There is always more rust than it seems. Probably at least a quarter floor and local repairs to the toeboard and inner wing, but it may be that both need complete replacement, which becomes a big job. Then there is the doorstep and A pillar. Does the car have oversills?

#19 MikeRotherham

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 05:22 PM

I can understand the confusion, that's where the driver's heel goes



#20 sonikk4

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 06:40 PM

Personally i would replace the quarter floor on both sides with repairs to the lower flitch being needed as well.



#21 camrocok

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 09:51 PM

Rather annoyingly the car has a new MOT.  The guy who did this one must have been blind when looking for rust.   

 

What type of cost is it to replace the quarter floors?  Is this hours or days in terms of work required?

 

The front panel is fairly shot at the bottom which will be a pain.

 

Appreciate the guidance gents.   



#22 camrocok

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Posted 28 December 2016 - 09:56 PM

ps Also finding bolts are shearing off or threads gone.   I have removed the bonnet to fix rust on the underside and I wanted better access to engine bay.

 

Out of the four bolts: two came off easily, one snapped and the other one just turned so I had to cut it off.   I have definitely taken on more than I had bargained for !!!!!



#23 MikeRotherham

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 01:27 PM

Very frustrating when seized nuts and bolts hold you up.

 

If I can make few suggestions:

 

Firstly, arm yourself with a can of Plus Gas, there's nothing better that I know of. WD40 isn't very good for this type of job.

 

Other's say that Halfords Shock and Unlock is good,

 

If possible, spend a few days before starting the job spraying the nuts and bolts with Plus Gas to give the stuff time to work.

 

Some on here suggest tightening the nut or bolt slightly when you start to break the rusted joint.

 

If you manage to loosen the nut or bolt don't try and unscrew in one go.

 

Tighten it back up slightly then unscrew a little more and repeat until its completely out.

 

I douse it again in Plus Gas whilst doing this.

 

Take your time.

 

When you do get a stuck bolt out it's a great sense of achievement.

 

When reassembling, use copper grease


Edited by MikeRotherham, 29 December 2016 - 01:37 PM.


#24 camrocok

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 01:51 PM

Good tip Mike.  I also find screws minus a decent head a challenge and lubrication makes these even more difficult to get out.

 

I spent a few hours cleaning up this morning and got to this before slicing the top of my tongue and deciding weather too cold to bleed to death in a mini.

 

Not sure if these will work or not.   If the floor was not depressing enough this is rear end minus the bumper as well

 

 

IMAG1314_zpsmvdbdw3v.jpg

 

IMAG1317_zpsxwwvbbtx.jpg

 

IMAG1318_zpsbm1dk5zy.jpg



#25 camrocok

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 01:54 PM

The photography is not great.   I was bleeding profusely at the time if you were wondering what red spots are.

 

The floor area has four holes.  The two drainage ones and two closer to the sill area.   The white light around the transmission tunnel is a reflection and not a hole.   

 

The socket piece is there to give scale although it is the soundest piece of metal in the car :)



#26 sonikk4

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 04:46 PM

Looks like someone has had a go at fitting an inner sill cover panel so that needs to come off.

Now the rusty flange is normally caused by moisture in between the layers there. There is three layers of metal. The rear panel, the floor panel and then the rear valance.

Not the end of the world but will need to be sorted sooner rather than later.

#27 camrocok

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Posted 29 December 2016 - 11:03 PM

I felt fairly gloomy when going to order parts from Mini Spares but two old bangers in their car park reminded me there are much worse cars out there :)

 

Bit annoyed at need for welding because that is way beyond my capability






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