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12Inch To 10 Inch


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#1 Shaggy33

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 08:25 AM

Any issues with doing this? I have 12 x 6 mambas fitted but seriously tempted to go to 10 x 6inch. It's an 1986 mk5 so front disks.
Also I already own some nice carbon fibre group 5 arches, are they purely suited to wheel width or is it wheel diameter also? In other words if I stick to same width of wheel and just change diameter will those arches look ok?

#2 RooBoonix

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 09:50 AM

Depending on which disc brakes you have, they may not fit under 10 inch wheels.

 

With 10 inch wheels you will need to get a tyre which has a larger sidewall, the overall diameter of a 10inch wheel and tyre assembly and 12inch wheel and tyre assembly will be very similar, so your current arches should be fine. One thing to bear in mind would be the offset of the wheels too.



#3 alex-95

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 12:05 PM

You'll more than Likely have 8.4" discs so as said above the 10's won't fit with them if you buy this 8.4 to 7.5" conversion kit you can. http://www.minispare...|Back to search



#4 Shaggy33

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 02:01 PM

Thanks guys. So it's new wheels and new brakes...! I am not unhappy with my 12's but really don't want to cut the wings, but if as you say the overall diameter is similar I may well be doing the same with 10's!



#5 RooBoonix

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 06:41 PM

Where are the wheels catching currently?



#6 Shaggy33

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 07:36 PM

Just at the front of wheel arch. If it's a clockface I would between 4-5pm needs 'shaving slightly to,allow full lock. Someone has said don't cut the wings but roll them and there's a trick with a scaffolding pole...?!

#7 alex-95

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 08:07 PM

It'd be pretty difficult to roll a mini wing. you can get limiter spaces for the steering rack so it doesn't turn as much.


Edited by alex-95, 06 January 2017 - 08:09 PM.


#8 RooBoonix

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 08:57 PM

As said, rolling a Mini wing wouldn't be advisable. Either doing what Alex has said above and fitting limiter spacers for the rack or cutting the wing would both work, you can cut the wing in such a way you don't see the part you have cut. 

 

My Dads Mini has 12x5" Ultralites and his used to rub, but after changing the cones/doing a general suspension overhaul this stopped. Is your suspension in good order?



#9 Shaggy33

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 09:58 PM

Yes new shocks (comes were good so I left those in. Yes limiter may work but the lock seems very poor if I turn wheel to the point where it hits wings. Mind you I suppose they wouldn't sell limiters if they didn't work

#10 RooBoonix

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 10:16 PM

Ok. You say you have group 5 arches, is the offset on your wheels quite big? Do they stick out quite a lot, as this means the wheel is more likely to catch.  :proud:



#11 nicklouse

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Posted 06 January 2017 - 11:08 PM

Thanks guys. So it's new wheels and new brakes...! I am not unhappy with my 12's but really don't want to cut the wings, but if as you say the overall diameter is similar I may well be doing the same with 10's!


Yes the OD is just about the same. And with some 10s the catching can be worse.

Please note you are only stating wheel size and giving no indication of the tyres you have or plan to use. As that is what is actually catching.

Note also the wheel ET changes things again.

#12 Shaggy33

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 07:31 AM

Yes the wheels stick out a lot and group 5's just cover them. Running yokohamas a539 mambas et7

#13 Shaggy33

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 07:32 AM

Oh and it's the outer edge of tyres that catch i.e. On full lock left the outer edge of right hand tyre catches

#14 RooBoonix

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 12:29 PM

Ok, that'll be due to the wide offset on the wheels. Looks like trimming the arches is the solution, unfortunately.

#15 mab01uk

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 06:26 PM

My Japanese export spec. Minilite Mk 11 6x10 alloys with deeper dish ET-15 offset and fitted with Japanese Dunlop R7 Road/Race 165/70x10 tyres with the classic 1960's Dunlop CR65 tread pattern required the front lower section of arches to be trimmed back nearly to the bumper flange......leaving enough metal to bend out a new section of flange so as not to leave a sharp edge and in my case to mount the W&P arch with a slight flex. Wheels now turn to full lock without any rubbing.

.

minilite6x10-7.jpg

 

As the factory bodyshell tooling became worn in later years the front panelwork and wings on Mini's varied more and more from one side to the other.......these shims below were added, often several more on one side to try to even up the gaps from wheel to wheel arch each side and prevent tyres rubbing on full lock.

 

"Fitted to rubber mounted subframes from 1976 on this packing piece goes between the front panel and the subframe mounting points. You might be surprised how many of these were fitted to your car when it came out the factory. When replacing the front panel or mountings you should repack them accordingly. They are open end shaped to slide in over the bolt."

http://www.minispare...sic/2A4292.aspx

 

"A set of 8 Mini front subframe shims (2A4292) in stainless steel exact reproductions of the original Rover ones fitted.

These are a must when you are renovating the mini shell to get the front panel and subframe to align correctly, they fit between the subframe and pear drop mount.

Made from stainless steel."

http://www.minisport...eel-2a4292.html

 

More info in this old thread here:-

http://www.theminifo...lems/?p=3338623


Edited by mab01uk, 07 January 2017 - 06:34 PM.





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