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Engine Steady Stuck Bolt


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#1 Gregd

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 02:40 PM

I am in the process of replacing the top engine steady bushes and cant remove the rear bolt. The nut is off and the bolt is turning freely but just won't come out....any tips for removal please as I'm getting pretty desperate.

Edited by Gregd, 21 January 2017 - 02:41 PM.


#2 tiger99

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:04 PM

Buy a left hand drill bit and drill it out. It will probably come out during the drilling operation. Then assess the state of the remaining thread which may need Helicoiling, or if you are lucky just cleaning up with a tap.

#3 dyshipfakta

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:09 PM

Bit confused about the above but try rocking the engine back and forth while pulling the bolt with some grips. I seem to remember mine being a pain to get out.

#4 RedRuby

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:35 PM

The bolt will probably be seized onto the steel insert in the mounting rubber. If you have not already done so give it a good soaking with plus gas, far better than wd40, Halfords also sell something called shock and unlock which is not bad stuff. I know it's tight but if you can get a hammer on the under side to tap the bolt it may free it off in combination with the plus gas.

#5 Spider

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 05:25 PM

If Red Ruby's suggestion doesn't work, get the car up on stands and using a long rod, you can - just - knock it from the bottom. Don't go 'Ape' on it though.


Edited by Moke Spider, 21 January 2017 - 05:25 PM.


#6 nicklouse

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 05:50 PM

Oh I remember when I had to change one on a very early car. What a pain in the....

5680F925-FC12-43D1-97FE-4AC1EC165F45_zps

Part 15, But you will note nuts at top and bottom.

#7 Gregd

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:04 PM

Well what a ball ache, that was....tried everything and in the end had to drill the head off. Steady is now off but obviously the bolt is buggered so will have to try and find one to fit tomorrow. Anybody know what size it is M8 seems a bit loose when I put it in the sleeve, I assume it should be a snug fit??

#8 nicklouse

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:12 PM

As 99.9999999999% of bolts on a Mini are imperial...

http://www.minispare...c/BH605151.aspx

5/16"

Edited by nicklouse, 21 January 2017 - 06:14 PM.


#9 Gregd

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:39 PM

As 99.9999999999% of bolts on a Mini are imperial...http://www.minispare...c/BH605151.aspx
5/16"


Thanks for your help, much appreciated

#10 Gregd

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 02:55 PM

Well thought I would give an update........

I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day). I found a 50mm M8 shank bolt and unlock in the garage and it is a perfect fit. So.....the steady is back on boltoed up and the engine is now rock solid. The car now drives the best that it has done since we have owned it (18m), gear changes are smoother and there is no nasty clunking when setting of or accelerating. It was a complete pain in the arse but worth it.

#11 BritishRacingGreen

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:44 PM

Good job on getting it fixed, will make a huge difference.

I know it isn't critical for this particular case, and I don't want to sound patronising, but mixing fasteners between metric and imperial can be externally frustrating down the line, if not for you then a future owner! I'd recommend changing it for the correct 5/16 UNF nut and bolt when it's convienient, should be much simpler now it's not siezed. Minispares fasteners are quite expensive, plenty of other places to get good quality imperial fasteners much cheaper.

#12 Gregd

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 06:04 PM

Good job on getting it fixed, will make a huge difference.
I know it isn't critical for this particular case, and I don't want to sound patronising, but mixing fasteners between metric and imperial can be externally frustrating down the line, if not for you then a future owner! I'd recommend changing it for the correct 5/16 UNF nut and bolt when it's convienient, should be much simpler now it's not siezed. Minispares fasteners are quite expensive, plenty of other places to get good quality imperial fasteners much cheaper.


Thanks for that, we needed to get it back on the road as it's my sons daily driver and I'm away all week after tomorrow. I'll order the right one and change it when we get a chance.

#13 nicklouse

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 06:47 PM

Well thought I would give an update........
I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day).


Odd as they are all the same sleeves.

#14 Gregd

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Posted 22 January 2017 - 09:55 PM

Well thought I would give an update........
I finally got the the remains of the bolt and existing sleeve off, when I said an M8 bolt was loose in the sleeve it was because I had the wrong sleeves in, they where the ones for the bottom steady (to be replaced another day).


Odd as they are all the same sleeves.

Hmmmmm....thought it was strange but just assumed the bolts were larger on the bottom steady

#15 tiger99

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 12:33 PM

I think I may know the explanation. They were not all built the same. My second Mini, about 1972, had the early and short lived type of lower steady with the thin brackets that always break on both subframe and gearbox. Not simultaneously of course! The bolt at the subframe end was larger, with no sleeve.

My third Mini, 1984, had the thicker brackets that don't break as often, if at all, and had a standard 5/16" bolt with a sleeve.

By the way, the first had no lower steady and chewed it's exhausts quite regularly. And, if you have an early type subframe with the thin bracket, it is not hard to fabricate and weld in a second bracket with the steady bar bushes and sleeve sandwiched between. The subframe crossmember is thick enough that I was able to do it in situ with very little dismantling with a cheap arc welder.




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