18 replies to this topic

[southlincspickup]

guys and girls

my pickup has 13" minilites

when i go over a bump or a dip in the road the rear wheels rub on the wheel arches, i have minispare budjet  hi los all round, the rear ones are as high as they will go, but it does dot sit excessively high this gets a lot worse when i have any weight in the back

i have just found out that the rear shocks are off a saloon which have 261mm to 365 mm movement, whereas the pickup ones have 271mm to 410mm travel

if i replace the rear shocks to pickup ones do you think my problem will be sorted out?

thanks for any help

 

[nicklouse]

Nope.

You need to lengthen the Hilo total length. Vans and pick up had longer trumpets as standard.

13" wheels will rub as the bodywork will get in the way as the wheels stick out further.

Raise suspension.
Tub the arches.
Change the wheels.

That is your options.

[Spider]

The correct length shock will help a lot actually, though last time I looked were NLA and had been for a while.

 

Also, check the OD of the Flange on the Hilo. If it's less than 90 mm this will also be a bigger part of the issue.

[nicklouse]

How's that? Longer bump stops?

[southlincspickup]

HI GUYS THANKS FOR YOUR QUICK RESPONSE

one of the things I forgot to mention is that when I first had the problem it was much worse, so I added 10mm spacers on top of the shockers which in turn fit under the shocker mounting holes

this did improve it quite a bit, so I am thinking to get some pickup shockers rather than salon (mini spares sell them) and then increase the length of the hi-lo bars, so to do this should i

1 sleeve it on the outside with a length of tube and weld either end

2 increase the length of the bars by welding a piece of tube onto the end

3 make some longer ones from scratch

if the shockers I have are shorter than what they should be I am thinking this will affect how they work?

I will have a measure of the diameter of the alley trumpets later

thanks for you help

steve

just been looking at minispares website

usually only hydrolastic suspension has bump stops on the rear, unless it has sports pack arhes and 13 inch wheels, which is what I have

so I can fit bump stops inside the rubber cone apparently  but I am not sure these will work with the hi lows

steve

Edited by southlincspickup, 22 January 2017 - 12:44 PM.

[nicklouse]

Shock length will not effect the ride height.

That is done by the spring and how much is is preloaded/loaded.

The only thing that might be different is any internal bump stop. Can also be on the shaft.

Which is really what you have done with your spacers.

The diameter of the trumpet contact with the rubber Spring has great effect ion the rate of the spring. The greater the diameter the stiffer the spring will seem.

If you have acces to machining up new rods for the HiLos I would but increase the diameter as Mr Spider did recently post up some images of bent and failed ones.

[southlincspickup]

just found out that there are two types of knuckle joints

the later ones for cars with 12" wheels as standard had a 4.3 spacer built in which would lift the whole car up, so may be worth trying this too

and I don't have internal bump stops either

thanks again for all your help

[Midas Mk1]

Time to get tubbing, did this on my sportspack

[southlincspickup]

anyone got a link for tubing?

must say it will be the last resort

[Spider]

How's that? Longer bump stops?

 

In the Van (and Moke) crude as it is, it will bottom out on the shock. If the shocker is too short (ie a saloon one) then the tyre can rub in the wheel arch. The Saloon ones are 25 mm shorter than Van types.

 

.......and then increase the length of the hi-lo bars, so to do this should i

1 sleeve it on the outside with a length of tube and weld either end

2 increase the length of the bars by welding a piece of tube onto the end

3 make some longer ones from scratch

if the shockers I have are shorter than what they should be I am thinking this will affect how they work?

I will have a measure of the diameter of the alley trumpets later

thanks for you help

steve

just been looking at minispares website

usually only hydrolastic suspension has bump stops on the rear, unless it has sports pack arhes and 13 inch wheels, which is what I have

so I can fit bump stops inside the rubber cone apparently  but I am not sure these will work with the hi lows

steve

 

A few points here!

 

This is not all as straight-forward a fix as we'd all like.

 

Part of the issue you are having is that the Rear suspension is on a 5:1 Ratio from the wheel to the rubber cone. This makes the rear suspension quite soft and easily susceptible to bottoming out.

 

Just some issues first with the standard extension bars (both steel and alloy types getting about)

 

They can split

 

 

 

They can bend

 

 

 

They can cause the Hilo Bolt to bend

 

 

 

So, if you want longer ones, I would suggest making some decent one piece ones like these

 

 

 

CAUTION !!!!!!

 

Doing all this and / or adding in a 'bump stop' inside the rubber cone will lead to Trailing Arm Pin Breakages, not right away, but after a few 'hits'

 

 

 

I don't recommend Hilos in the back for these reasons and others, if maintaining standard or raised hight.

 

I mentioned ^ that a big part of the issue is that the Rear Suspension has a soft rate. This is where the diameter of the flange on the Hilo comes in, if it's too small, it makes this rate even softer.

 

So, one thing you can try here, if the Flange is already 90 mm dia, is to do other things to increase the rate of the rear Suspension. You can try Red Dot Cones, but I'm not crazy about this route as it still puts a lot of pressure on the shoulder of the Trailing Arm Pin. The other thing is to fit an Assist type Coil Over

 

 

NOTE that these are not the common Coil-overs, but a softer rate type. They are not used as a 'stand alone' replacement unit, but fitted in conjunction with the Rubber Cone, so the best of both worlds are there.

 

These are really the way to go if you put any load in the back of your Pick-up. If you ride around empty, then probably a standard Cone, with a standard VAN Trumpet (these are different to a Saloon type) with Jacking Rings (I'll see if I have a photo of these)

 

 

<EDIT: This appears to be the only file photo I have of Jacking Rings, seen here with the Blue Arrow

 

 

>

Edited by Moke Spider, 22 January 2017 - 07:23 PM.

[nicklouse]

But longer shocks can't stop the bottoming out. Unless the length is in the upper mounting or there is a longer internal bump stop.

A longer shock that has the same upper mounting will change nothing.

Even though I had a pick up I can't remember anything really different in the shocks. But thst was kept standard and ran on 10s.

[Spider]

But longer shocks can't stop the bottoming out.

 

Yes, and I agree.

 

They will however stop the wheel rubbing in the arch, as when compressed, they are also longer than the saloon types.

Edited by Moke Spider, 22 January 2017 - 07:51 PM.

[nicklouse]

But longer shocks can't stop the bottoming out.

 
Yes, and I agree.
 
They will however stop the wheel rubbing in the arch, as when compressed, they are also longer than the saloon types.

Been thinking and searching and found diddly squat.

I would now go back on myself and say they could make the difference if longer.

If the body is longer and the stroke the same they would bottom out sooner.

But without knowing the measurements.....

[Spider]

But without knowing the measurements.....

 

 

 

Bhahaha,,,,, Nick my good mate, put down the Haynes Manuals and look in a factory one, it's all in there,,,,,,,

Edited by Moke Spider, 23 January 2017 - 03:03 AM.

[southlincspickup]

Bit confused now
So pickup longer shocks will help stop my tyre rubbing on the arch?
Thanks for all your input guys