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Help Please. 1275 Engine Swap


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#1 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:31 PM

Guys, I need some help.

I have just installed a 1275 engine into my 998. I did all the usual mods, etc. The engine was a very sound metro engine which was running fine previously. There were a few stripped studs on the thermostat housing so I removed the head and got those done by machine shop along with drilling the heater outlet on top left of head. I fitted a new head gasket etc (mini spares) and put engine in.

I have just filled her up with oil and coolant ready to fire her up and disaster.....

Coolant is seeping from the front of the head - its running out, never seen anything like it. It's like I didn't tighten head up but I torqued up the head to the specified amount. Have I just got a duff gasket or is this symptomatic of something more sinister? all the work, ahhhhhhhhhh

I don't want to remove head agian if I missing something simple or I have a bigger problem. So any suggestions or calming words gratefully received!

#2 panky

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:42 PM

Does it have a by-pass hose fitted?


Edited by panky, 24 January 2017 - 05:45 PM.


#3 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:47 PM

No

#4 panky

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:48 PM

Is the head fouling the water pump?



#5 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:51 PM

I'm not sure - this leaking before I've even turned it over - pump not even run yet.

#6 panky

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:55 PM

I've heard of this happening sometimes when you fit a 1275 head onto a small bore block, just enough to stop the head tightening down properly.



#7 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:57 PM

Makes sense - but the block, head and pump are all from the new 1275 engine. So I can't imagine that would be a problem - would it?

#8 yeti21586

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 05:58 PM

Got any pics??



#9 Spider

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:03 PM

If you've filled it with coolant, drain that and refill it with water. Run it with the water in it for about 300 miles, drain that and then go over to the coolant.

 

Coolant has next to no surface tension (and that's part of how it works) and so will leak / seep out of the tiniest point. Coolant also won't allow the gasket to swell like water will. The water will allow the gasket to swell up initially to get that water tight seal.

 

The Gasket manufacturers also recommend this. Somewhere on the forum, I posted a bulletin from one of them.



#10 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:05 PM

Sorry not on me at the moment I can take some later but I will have to fill up the coolant above the head level to show the problem. Just cleaned off for the night!

#11 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:06 PM

Ah that makes some sense. So It might not be as bad as I was thinking - I'll give that a go and try and get it running.

#12 panky

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:07 PM

Makes sense - but the block, head and pump are all from the new 1275 engine. So I can't imagine that would be a problem - would it?

Not sure but it would be worth trying to peer under there just to make sure.



#13 GraemeC

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:08 PM

Known, good, accurate torque wrench?  You'd be surprised how many are way off calibration.



#14 Seato65

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:29 PM

Only got the one - so can't check it - it's pretty new so I have no idea if it's accurate now I think about it. The last head I did was fine with it but I did fill the Engine with water - so maybe a combo of coolant and wrench. But I did check it with my big socket driver to check and they feel pretty tight!

#15 mingy

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 08:11 PM

Did you use the " Rule of Nine " to tighten up the cylinder head bolts in sequence ?






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