28 replies to this topic

[Chodosh]

Hi all,

Very excited to be back in the fold after a 13 year break from owning my last mini... that car was a mini world feature car that decided to wrap itself around a tree. I'm more sensible now, so thought I'd get back into the groove with a fun car.

It's 1992, J plate cooper s conversion, 65,000 Fuel injected.

Went for a test drive and had a poodle around and felt okay. On drove home, when giving it some beans it started to smoke a little. Not constabtly, but bursts on hard accel or deceleration. Checked the oil (not sure why I didn't do that earlier) and was way over the fill line...

Car has sat for a few years, but I know the owner changed the plugs, leads, dizzy etc to get it running for MOT. Presumed he changed the oil, but was clearly wrong!

Dropped the oil and it's, dark, a little thin and there was at least 6litres, excluding what was in the oil filter. Car would not rev past 4,000 and capped out at 70mph. There was some swarfe on sump plug, but no large particles, just very fine.

Am changing the oil, cleaning plugs and starting again. Any other advice of things to check? Would that stop the engine running freely?
Cheers
Adam

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[bpirie1000]

So many things to check on an injection mini.. a case of getting a multi metre a day testing stuff....

Or the expensive way of replacing bits until fixed...

I would look at mixture and choked cat as well.....

[Chodosh]

Cheers, I don't think it's the CAT... I couldn't remember if t had one, but found this pic which should rule that one out!

Curious if the car is getting full throttle so checking the cable will probably be first step. That's once the cars has some new oil.

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[minifreek1]

Start by changing the CTS for a new 1, the choke might not be coming off and it could be overfuelling...

 

What does the temperature gauge say...? does it read normal after 10 mins or so....

 

Mine had a similar problem where it wouldn't rev freely...

 

I removed the cat and replaced with a bypass, that helped..

 

I changed the CTS for new, didn't make much difference to be honest but that eliminated that...

 

I replaced the vacuum pipes to the ECU via the flame trap...

 

It ended up being a blocked water heated inlet manifold, so the temp sensor wasn't getting hot enough to turn the choke off... I changed the inlet manifold and its never run better....

[Chodosh]

Interestingly I think the temp gauge was reading cold... the needle didn't move. Tried to turn the heating on and it came out cold - looking at the t piece in engine bay where the heater valve is it looks rusted and possible seized.

Vacuum pipes were previously split but replaced. Must admit I'm not sure I know what a flame trap is??

What is the function and where is the coolant sensor fitted ?

Cheers

[ukcooper]

compression test is next a report back what you get. and what needle is in the carb ????

[minifreek1]

Interestingly I think the temp gauge was reading cold... the needle didn't move. Tried to turn the heating on and it came out cold - looking at the t piece in engine bay where the heater valve is it looks rusted and possible seized.

Vacuum pipes were previously split but replaced. Must admit I'm not sure I know what a flame trap is??

What is the function and where is the coolant sensor fitted ?

Cheers

The flame trap is another word for the little box thats fitted against the bulkhead with the vacuum pipes coming out of it... I cant think of the name used on here for it...

 

The CTS is located underneath the inlet manifold on the right hand side as you look at it from the front, need to strip down the injection unit to get to it easily....

 

The function of the CTS is (Coolant Temperature Sender) it basically tells the ECU that the engine is up to temperature and also tells the ECU to not chuck as much fuel into it... If its not reading the temperature high enough, the ECU will just keep chucking too much fuel into the engine and thus making it bog down as theres more fuel than air, thus the engine cant burn the fuel enough...

 

Once the inlet manifold is in your hands, check the water pipes are free of crud and ******* (like mine was) if it is then you will need to clean it out as best you can...or buy a replacement manifold...

[minifreek1]

compression test is next a report back what you get. and what needle is in the carb ????

Compression test maybe.... doesn't have a needle, it has a throttle body with an injector... no carb on an injection Mini...

[bpirie1000]

Getting g there hopefully....

[Chodosh]

Had a good chat with Paul at minicraft. Very helpful chap.

Noted that running too much oil would increase pressure in crankcase which would also stifle performance as the pressure builds up - my car doesn't have an oil psi gauge so couldn't check this running.

The temp sensor sounds a bit of a faff of a job. My old Mayfair wasn't anywhere near as complicated. I'll be methodical and see where it goes....

ill also have to check the thermostat to see if that's working or the sender for temp gauge. After 20 miles the needle didn't budge so something fishy there. Cheers guys

[minifreek1]

Mine was the same mate, didnt budge even after a drive on the motorway and after changing the thermostat too....

 

It is a b it of a faff to get to the CTS but it'll be worth it in the end...

 

Mine is a 94 1.3 SPi Mayfair, the old carb engined cars aren't quite as complicated.....

[bpirie1000]

You would be worried if it was all just' get in and drive' stuff....

Always something to do makes it a proper mini...

[Chodosh]

Very true, but I sold my wife on the idea that this would be different and not like the ongoing project (old 911) that I have ticking along. Oh well!

My dad came over earlier and he volunteered himself to help. I'll presume that changing the CTS is in the Haynes manual (as well as depressurising the fuel system), otherwise I'll just figure it out.

Any specific top tips most welcome!

[minifreek1]

No need to depressurise the fuel system, just unbolt the injection manifold and turn it upside down.... its that simple...

 

The inlet manifold is held on by 2 bolts.... once undone, dont lose the 2 locating rings, else you my have problems fitting it back together properly..

 

The locating rings are installed in the injection manifold, and easily fall out, so have a magnet on stick ready..

 

You might have to drain the coolant out though...

Edited by minifreek1, 07 February 2017 - 09:15 PM.

[FlyingScot]

Work methodically, do all the basics you would do on any mini. Change oil, plugs and distributor cap and rotor arm. Set tappets.
Replace all the vacuum pipes and fuel trap (it's not a flame trap) - these are service items and are common items for issues.
If the temperature gauge isn't just below half way on running up to temperature then yes the CTS is causing th overfuelling as explained by minifreek1. Removing the sensor means draining out some coolant or take the opportunity to drain and reverse flush the system anyway so you know it's in good order and replace the thermostat (get the injection one).
The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) can be removed using some long extension shafts and a swivel on a socket set to reach from underneath, otherwise as previously mentioned it's a manifold off job.

This are the most likely issues with SPi cars - they are not complicated to work with, most problems are due to lack of proper servicing.

FS