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New Motor - Jcw Conversion - Not Revving Freely


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#16 Chodosh

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 05:11 PM

The rad is fine, but dirty, so I may take the opportunity to remove it entirely, flush it, paint it, replace the yellow fan and refit.

 

I definitely think it was over fuelling as the MPG I got on that short run was abysmal !

 

Thanks all, I have a trip to Mini spares planned on the weekend!

 

20w/50 + Filter

CTS sensor

88 degree thermostat

Rad flush

Fuel trap,

4 x vacuum pipes

bumper

fan blade

front badge

rear lenses

gaskets etc

Soundproofing

 

and all for under £180!!! For my 911, I just spent £110 on a heater relay! good to see inflation has yet to grab hold of the Mini world.

 

Thanks for the advice and wish me luck.



#17 Chodosh

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Posted 08 February 2017 - 09:48 PM

So I thought I'd have a poke around with a flashlight under the bonnet. Located the fuel trap but can't see any pipes leading off of it. Looks like they may have snapped off? In the vicinity I can see the remains of a thin, hard black plastic pipe that makes it way over towards the LH side of the car - I haven't traced it fully... but am guessing this isn't right.

Fingers crossed this might be the source, or at least a contributor to the problem.

Managed to take some snaps although they're a little unclear.

Having some fun with all this. Fingers crossed it solves it. Given how filthy it is under the bonnet I'll probably change the CTS anyway

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#18 Sprocket

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 01:30 AM

If you go as far as replacing or checking the thermostat, make sure an 88c one goes back in! and, that it sits in the top of the sandwich plate, rather than the head. Two common mistakes that make for chasing a ghost.



#19 Steve220

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 06:46 AM

I'd be go looking at the valve clearances with the rockers.

#20 Carlos W

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 10:16 AM

I think you may well have found at lease some of your issues



#21 Chodosh

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 06:28 PM

Mild amount of progress... but then again not much progress.

Changed oil
Replaced CTS
Fitted new fuel trap
Fitted new vacuum hoses to fuel trap (manifold and ecu)
Removed rad, flushed and cleaned
Painted rad and shroud
Fitted new fan
Replaced all jubilee clips

I managed to shear one of the bolts on the thermostat. The others simply wouldn't budge, so I couldn't check or replace it.

Car fired up first time, have just done a holts coolant flush and waiting for the car to cool.

Let the car run for 15-20 mins and temp gauge barely budged, just about hit the blue line. The heater is also not working (still).

Rad hose did feel much warmer than the heater hoses coming off the thermostat. Could the stat cause the temp gauge not to read and therefore contribute to the ECU thinking the car hasn't warmed up? ....and then overfuel....

Also... I got busy removing the sound deadening from the bulkhead as it looks awful. Now the fuel gauge is reading zero, on a full tank. Is there a fuse or connector I could have knocked?

All in all, grazed knuckles, exhausted and still no further really. Have a go hero, but sometimes you wish you didn't bother! Only saving grace is t looks cleaner 😃

Cheers

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Edited by Chodosh, 12 February 2017 - 06:31 PM.


#22 r3k1355

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 01:11 PM

If you've removed the rad and CTS then you could now be battling with pockets of air in the motor.



#23 minifreek1

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 03:38 PM

Is the heater in the hot position...?

 

It could be the inlet manifold is full of gunk and ******* and needs cleaning out, mine was like that and stopping the temp gauge from reading the water temperature because it wasn't getting hot enough - it had no flow of hot water so didn't read anything...

 

Your thermostat might be stuck open also, thus letting cool water constantly circulate around the system...

 

If the heater isn't getting hot, but the pipes are, it could be that there are airlocks which will need bleeding out....



#24 FlyingScot

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 10:50 PM

Temp gauge not reading right is the clue, it's overfuelling as the ECU thinks it cold..
Reverse flush system or get some descaler in there (kettle stuff is fine)

FS

#25 brivinci

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 08:56 PM

When you replaced your CTS, did you inspect and clean where it sits inside the manifold? There is a good chance that there is crud blocking the water from getting to the sensor.

 

If the vac line to/from the fuel trap were that bad, chances are others may be similar. I would replace ALL the vac lines if you haven't yet.

 

There are 3 bolts that hold on the thermostat. So, one came out, one broke and one won't budge? Really need to get into there and see what is going on. Also, take some pix of the way the coolant hoses are routed to and from the heater valve as well as in and out of the intake manifold.


Edited by brivinci, 16 February 2017 - 08:57 PM.


#26 Chodosh

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 07:10 PM

Progress... at last!!

I think nearly all my problems were centered around the thermostat housing. I flushed the heater and manifold and bought a perfect tool to clean the inside of the manifold and the hoses leading to and from it.

Kitchen Craft Sink and Overflow Cleaning Brush https://www.amazon.c...i_WJEQyb3HP5TVC

Flushed them through and all okay, flowed freely and clear.

With an amount of heat a new pair of vice grips from screwfix and an angle grinder (no other choice) I managed to get the thermostat housing off. All three bolts sheared, two high up, one about 5mm proud of the head... they had welded themselves solid into the sandwich plate.

It turns out that a) the thermostat was totally knackered and had fixed itself open and b) the take off from the sandwich plate was full of congealed anti freeze, blocking it totally. So there was no way the car would ever get hot and zero flow through the heater/ manifold cts.

I managed to save the sandwich plate and refitted the battered thermostat housing which I'll replace next week. Car now runs up to temp half way and WE HAVE HEAT!

Went for a quick blast and immediately feels better, revved past 5k easy enough, no smoke and settled to an idle of 900rpm ish.

Plus I noticed a loose connection on the fuel tank so that got the fuel gauge working. Plus I managed to wire up a stereo, but both rear speakers are blown. I've got some 6.5inch out the porsche so those will go in next week.

Now the next frustrating job is to fix the dash panel where the heater cable pull is. The panel has 4 switches. lights. hazards, rear window and something else? I presume there is a nut I have to screw on but it looks a nuisance to get to!!

Thanks all for your help and guidance. Saved me a couple of days labour and considering the parts were cheap, job well done

Attached File  IMG_4031.PNG   336.35K   18 downloadsAttached File  IMG_4032.PNG   303.59K   20 downloads


Edited by Chodosh, 20 February 2017 - 09:11 AM.


#27 brivinci

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 05:44 PM

Great to hear its getting sorted!

 

What is actually wrong with the switch panel? There are two captured screws, with nuts that secure them to the bottom dash rail. Not the most terrible things to get out.



#28 Chodosh

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 03:27 PM

the LH side is secured tightly. The RH side is entirely loose... I can see the bracket with the captive stud that should go through a hole in the dash rail. Only trouble is that either the stud or the hole in the dash rail is out of alignment.

 

I managed to loop a cable tie around the angled part of the bracket and will try a heath robinson fix. I think that should help as its a nuisance to actuate the heater control valve.

 

Train issues this morning so woke up early, took the car cover off and got the car out the garage. Fired up into life and had a lovely run through the back roads to the tube station a few miles away with a big grin from ear to ear.

 

off to race retro tomorrow to buy some more new shiny bits!



#29 brivinci

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 03:40 PM

Good for you. Nice to hear back up and doing what these cars do best...putting smiles on peoples faces.

 

My guess is that the bolt rattled loose and the PO, over time, tweaked the bracket pulling and pushing the heater controls. Its not the most robust bracket so I'd imagine a little muscling to the bracket will get it back into shape and into the hole on the dash.






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