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Brake Fluid Cap


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#1 nerdy norm

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 06:44 PM

I've just spotted that one of the 2 terminals on my brake fluid cap has almost broken away. It's the one with the blue DIY crimp (not mine!) in this pic:
DSC_0004_zps4rxlyhxb.jpg

 

I guess the easiest solution would be to replace the complete cap, but I can't seem to find one with 2 terminals for the warning light. Would a single-terminal one like this work? If so, how would I go about connecting it to the 2 wires I have?
http://minispares.co...|Back to search

 

 



#2 AlexMozza

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 07:03 PM

They are a direct replacement as the original one is NLA



#3 nerdy norm

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 07:05 PM

Thanks, but how do I connect my 2 cables to the single terminal on the replacement cap?

#4 nerdy norm

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 07:11 PM

Just saw a close-up of the new cap, there are 2 terminals next to each other - problem solved :)

#5 nerdy norm

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 01:09 PM

Now I have a new problem!

 

I bought the replacement cap and connected the 2 wires. However, the brake warning test switch no longer lights when I press it. It definitely did before with the old cap.

 

Any ideas folks?



#6 Ado1379

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 02:01 PM

Is your brake fluid topped up?

#7 GraemeC

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 02:11 PM

Shouldn't matter - all pressing the switch does is bypass the cap and tests the bulb.

So either the bulb has blown or the 12V supply to the switch has failed.



#8 nerdy norm

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 04:42 PM

Yes, all I did was swap over the old cap with the broken terminal to the new cap, and plugged the wires in. Does it matter which way round the go? I tried both ways and it made no difference.

 

If I put a meter on the 2 wires should one or both have 12 volts?



#9 Ado1379

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 05:47 PM

I'm guessing you'll need to go from one of the wires to the car chassis. I'm not sure though as I don't have a diagram in front of me

#10 cal844

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 06:07 PM

One is live, the other earth

#11 nerdy norm

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 08:38 AM

Thanks, I'll test it with a meter later. I guess it's possible that the bulb blew when the terminal became detached.



#12 GraemeC

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 03:06 PM

I can't remember without checking the diagram whether it uses a switched live or switched ground.
Either way it is not a live and an earth otherwise the switch would simply create a dead short when fluid level was low.

#13 monkey

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 06:03 PM

It's switched earth. According to the wiring diagram I'm looking at the switch gets its live feed from a line fuse that also feeds the headlamp flasher - so if your flasher works then it ain't the fuse

#14 Rocket.

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 06:12 PM

When I got a kit to switch my master cylinder I had to connect the two wires together and use the second terminal for an earth to the body

#15 nerdy norm

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Posted 22 February 2017 - 09:15 AM

Can anyone give me an idiot's guide as to what to test with my multimeter?






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