54 replies to this topic

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I'm leaning towards having a turbo set up ( transplanting my blow through to my cub/moke project). So would like to build a hyper motor.

[hazpalmer14]

Mine was built for 200bhp. Block bored to 1310 with 10cc cast omegas. Metro turbo 6581 crank. Phase 2 cam. Benross cylinder head and sc drops and box with x pin diff. It now has a gt17 on a fusion fabs manifold. But the guy I bought it off was using a gt20. But people have reached 200 with the gt17. And a great big alloy intercooler too. If I put 20+ psi of boost through it it would make 200hp

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

So a normal well built engine, with a decent cr. Top quality components that can take a high psi? I do like the look of that fusion fabs manifold. Do you have a centre strap upgrade?

[hazpalmer14]

Yeh I do, standard rods with arp bolts too

[nicklouse]

You can get close to that without a turbo. Just a 16v head......

Bottom end and box will be the same specs though.

[Turbo Phil]

To get 200hp from a NA A-Series might be possible but the RPM required to do so would require a very serious bottom end if it was to last any time at all.
A Turbo engine on the other hand would require nowhere near the RPM to make 200hp. You don't need a fancy crank and rods to break the 200hp barrier, but the parts you use must be spot on and the engine well put together.
A GT17, GT20, hell even the old T3 will do it. A decent head, phase 2 cam, efficient (not just big) intercooler, the cast Omegas will take the boost, but if it's a track or race car used under boost for prolonged periods go with the forged.

Phil.

[MIGLIACARS]

To get 200hp from a NA A-Series might be possible but the RPM required to do so would require a very serious bottom end if it was to last any time at all.
A Turbo engine on the other hand would require nowhere near the RPM to make 200hp. You don't need a fancy crank and rods to break the 200hp barrier, but the parts you use must be spot on and the engine well put together.
A GT17, GT20, hell even the old T3 will do it. A decent head, phase 2 cam, efficient (not just big) intercooler, the cast Omegas will take the boost, but if it's a track or race car used under boost for prolonged periods go with the forged.

Phil.

I use the die cast omegas on a big powered track car 20 mins a race, they have been great no probs for me, 

167 hp atw

agreed about the bottom end through,

my forced inducted racer eats my pals 16v bmw mini alive...

[Turbo Phil]

That's good to hear about the cast Omegas, I can't fault the ones I've used either, though it's never under boost for continuous long periods.

Phil.

Edited by Turbo Phil, 15 February 2017 - 06:15 PM.

[MIGLIACARS]

That's good to hear about the cast Omegas, I can't fault the ones I've used either, though it's never under boost for continuous long periods.

Phil.

Well again my car is under boost for long periods at at 7300 max revs it does 17psi, so far so good with the die casts

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

What cc would I be looking at? 1310?

[hazpalmer14]

Normally just a 1293 will do it. You can over bore to what ever size you want. But you don't need the extra cc's to make the power

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Where can I get a gt17 from? Can't seem to find much online about where to get them

[hazpalmer14]

I got mine from eBay and my mate rebuilt it with a cheap rebuild kit. Haven't had it running to see if it's any good. But was worth a punt at the cost. You can buy them brand new, and you can get Chinese copies too

[Simon998]

If you check out 'boostedbois' on youtube they're putting 30PSI through Chinese ebay turbos on b18's (650bhp) and they're taking the abuse.

[Ethel]

Aye, cc's don't really matter with a blower. Often less is more as it makes it easier to get the compression ratio down for the extra boost.

 

Good Q about the GT17, what models were they fitted to? 

 

Found this list, nothing on A/R or trim but the part codes might tell you.