20 replies to this topic

[nollyd]

hi all,hope someone can help as its doin my nut in.when i put into gear and go to pull away the engine sort of kicks back.now ive replaced top engine steady(clutch side)all new engine mounts,new pear shaped mountings on front of subframe and new rear engine mounts are new,hi los fitted,new genuine doughnuts,all new basically.just fitted gearbox stabilizers to both sides and still got same problem.new clutch cylinder and slave cylinder as ive just converted from auto to manual.auto died sadly.the only thing that isnt new is the clutch plate itself tho it pulls and drives as it should.any help would be appreciated.thye only thing left i can think of myself is the ultimate engine steady(thermostat side)tho the engine breather and heater pipe would be in the way i think.

[RedRuby]

May have missed it but cannot see any mention of rer front subframe mounts, knuckle joints, bottom arm bushes, tightness/security of steering rack, shock absorber mounting bushes. Basically it's a case of checking every component to see if there is any sign of failure or movement.

[hhhh]

Maybe it's lean and spitting back?

[nollyd]

its a definate clunk as i pull away,thanks for the replies tho guys.RedRuby i will go over it with a fine tooth comb.

[CityEPete]

The trouble is even when the mounts (engine and subframe all round) look ok or feel firm they often aren't.

[cal844]

Did you fit washers to the bolt at the bulkhead end of the top steady?

I have the same issue but I'm 100% sure that's the fix(there's no washers on my steady bolt ATM)

[nollyd]

yeah all washers fitted,new bushes and arm.all locked up properly.new mountings.

[Cooperman]

Is the front sub-frame solid mounted or does it still have the later (and poorer) rubber mountings?

[nollyd]

still got rubber,new tho.would u suggest solid and what size strengtheners should i go for on heel board.heard they will crack heel board if theres movement but cant see how its moving now,ive replaced everything.

[Cooperman]

Solid mounting is the very best way to attach the front sub-frame.

The reinforcing plates should be made from 1.5 mm steel sheet and be around 150 mm x 100 mm. Fit them by seam welding around the edges and by 'plug' welding through 6 mm diameter holes drilled through the reinforcing plates. There should be around 12 holes for the plug welding. Pre-drill the holes for the mountings and slave-bolt through before welding.

Then just linish back the welds, paint and fit the new solid mountings.

[nollyd]

rite ok cooperman,sounds like a plan.the last time i read up on solid mounts they were a no-no for some reason,is this the reason for strengthening the floor and has this made them more likeable.i have put the solid pear shaped mountings in today with shims so snug fit.

[Cooperman]

You must fit solid mounts all round on the front sub-frame as you MUST NOT part fit these.

There is no reason not to fit solid mounts and every reason to fit them, so long as the front toe-board is reinforced properly.

 

To re-state things, the rubber mounts were originally fitted with the aim of making the car less harsh in view of the change of target market from younger buyers to middle-aged lady owners. Unfortunately the NVH was not significantly improved, but the steering response and overall 'feel' of the car was degraded.

[nollyd]

ok great,would you know anything about wheels and sportspack arches,i currently have 13x7s on but want an easier ride if you know what i mean,hard at slow speed,looks great but need comfort these days haha.

[Cooperman]

13" wheels with 175 x 50 tyres are about the worst combination for optimum suspension.

Basically the tyre-wall depth is small (i.e. low-profile) and with the small suspension travel of a Mini the tyre is unable to perform its intended part of the suspension.

 

The best wheel/tyre combination is a 10" wheel with either a 145/80 x 10 or a 165/70 x 10 tyre. If you can't afford the 7.5" brake and calliper conversion, then a 12" wheel with either a 145/70 or a 165/60 tyre is a good compromise. There is absolutely no point in fitting very wide wheels as a 145 tyre cannot be fitted to a wheel more than 4.5" wide and a 165 should not be fitted to a wheel wider than 5.5" or 6" absolute maximum.  So Sportpak arch extensions are not necessary and if 4.5" wheels are used no arch extension is necessary at all. For a 5.5" or 6" wheel the old 'Group 2 narrow' arch extensions are ideal.

 

Remember, the wider the wheel arch extensions and wheels are, the higher the aerodynamic drag so the slower the car will be and the more petrol it will use.

[nollyd]

the problem ive got is i already have sportspack arches fitted,is there an arch that could replace these without re-doing wings again.whats the best 12 inch for these arches,spacers etc not a problem as i have access to cnc etc.as for aerodynamics my max speed is around 50 if im out and about but normally a sanils pace round town and is a daily driver.