10 replies to this topic

[Inquitus]

• Heater is working, though I have to keep it on on the Motorway to keep the temps down.
• Rapidly overheats as soon as you pull off the motorway into a normal driving situation.
• Seems to be idling too high as well, this is intermittent, @2-2.5k but clearly doesn't help the overheating situation. 
• Could be an intermittent sticking of the throttle cable, seems to be providing power even when changing down and slowing down sometimes @2-2.5k rpm instead of @1k
• Also seems to be an issue with the grounding point in the back right of the engine bay, I can get it working ok with my hands but do need to do some work on it when I have some time (not sure if related) this impacts lights, wipers at the minimum.

Any idea where to start with diagnosis please?

Edited by Inquitus, 18 February 2017 - 12:55 PM.

[ukcooper]

try a compression test, see what results you get or maybe its the rad cap not letting off pressure when it should.

[redmini]

I had a similar issue with my MPI a few months ago, the thermostat was stuck in the closed position.  That's a nice easy check, stick it in a cup of boiling water and watch what happens.

[redmini]

Did you try the thermostat?

[Inquitus]

Did you try the thermostat?

 

No I have to travel with work a lot at the minute, no time, going to drop it into my local mini specialist here in Ireland to get it checked ahead of NCT (Irish MOT) and get him to take a look.

 

I think the head gasket is fine, I hope, think its the thermostat or waterpump. 

Edited by Inquitus, 26 February 2017 - 10:47 AM.

[cian]

Check the cap! I'm in the north and have plenty in stock if your needing one

Cc minis on fb

[Inquitus]

So the mechanic fitted a new thermostat, temp sensor and cap, the expansion tank boiled again when I got home, though the temp readout was never above normal. It is also idling high, turn it off and on and it settles to correct idle until at some point it will go back to idling at 1.4k. Mechanic reckons the ECU might be the problem as he tried everything else including fitting a new throttle body. He also flushed through the cooling system as only half the radiator was getting hot. It will not overheat idling static, but as I say the expansion tank was boiling after the spin home. Anyone got any ideas? A reconditioned ECU is going to set me back about €750.

Edited by Inquitus, 13 March 2017 - 03:07 PM.

[cian]

An erratic idle suggests a faulty idle air control valve don't go down the ecu route just yet is the water pump circulating ?

Edited by cian, 13 March 2017 - 03:13 PM.

[Inquitus]

An erratic idle suggests a faulty idle air control valve don't go down the ecu route just yet is the water pump circulating ?

 

The engine immobiliser also sometimes does not need de-activating, i.e. it never lights up even if ts been sitting overnight, which is making me think the ECU might be an issue. I'll try the idle air control valve.

[FlyingScot]

Immobiliser is separate to engine ECU. Earthing problem or low voltage can cause spurious issues with electronics.

FS

[Jml643]

This is a bit late but you need to give that engine a proper earth/ground. Nothing really to do with cooling but can cause lots of assorted running and charging issues. Mount this directly to the block/head and to somewhere like the inner wing or bulkhead area.