12 replies to this topic

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

Ello all, here I am again with another problem. When I bought my subframe it was advertised as just that - a subframe. I had said item on my trolley today and dropped the engine into place with a fork lift, so far so good. I then loosely bolted up the clutch end mount and started to do the same at the rad end - that`s when I found that the holes in the s/f at this end were spaced about a bolt`s width further apart. Have I bought an auto subframe?  

[whistler]

If you have then you can buy adapter plates to take up the difference.

[tiger99]

That is not the main difference in an auto frame. The side members are farther apart. Yours should be tight on the mounts, making it difficult to get one down into place with the other bolted in. That is to preload the rubbers. If the mounts sit down in their place far too easily, such that it us difficult to bolt them up, stretching the rubber probably to breaking point, then you woukd have an auto frame. I think there would be almost an inch of space at each side.

If it is bolt hole spacing, there are two things to consider. Firstly later Minis with fuel injection had the engine shifted forwards slightly, presumably by drilling new holes. Secondly, I am fairly certain that there were reports of the problem you have, as I understand it, here on this forum a while back and it may have been due to faulty manufacture of a certain Brad of mounts. If you get stuck, post some pictures so we can make more informed suggestions.

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

That is not the main difference in an auto frame. The side members are farther apart. Yours should be tight on the mounts, making it difficult to get one down into place with the other bolted in. That is to preload the rubbers. If the mounts sit down in their place far too easily, such that it us difficult to bolt them up, stretching the rubber probably to breaking point, then you woukd have an auto frame. I think there would be almost an inch of space at each side.

If it is bolt hole spacing, there are two things to consider. Firstly later Minis with fuel injection had the engine shifted forwards slightly, presumably by drilling new holes. Secondly, I am fairly certain that there were reports of the problem you have, as I understand it, here on this forum a while back and it may have been due to faulty manufacture of a certain Brad of mounts. If you get stuck, post some pictures so we can make more informed suggestions.

Thanks for that, I`ll do some photoing. According to the Minispares page on this you just need the one adaptor plate which I have read elsewhere on here is about 10mm (3/8") thick. Nothing ever comes easy to me, lol.

[nicklouse]

pictures. auto had the modded end at the clutch end.

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

pictures. auto had the modded end at the clutch end.

Maybe, but my mount fits the clutch end, it`s down at the rad side the holes won`t line.

[nicklouse]

Ok in your first post you say the bolts are too far apart?

Do you actually mean to high or too low?

Is this for the hot rod?

If yes before going mad you might be onto a good thing. As you can lower the engine in the subframe. And you can mod the subframe to raise it into the the car.

[Sprocket]

A manual engine almost falls through the bottom of an auto frame (OK maybe not quite falls all the way through) so if you have an auto frame, you'll know.

 

The most common issue with engine mounts is that there are some out there that are slightly the wrong shape. It is so small a difference that it is hard to tell most of the time just looking at them.

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

Well folks I think I can safely say that I have an auto subframe. As the Old Skool Minis man told me - the auto s/f is kinked out one side to allow for the longer box and my photos will show that. Photo 2 shows the clutch end with the bolts nicely home where they should be whilst photo 1 shows the gap at the "kinky" end and the different hole pitching. Minispares say that when fitting their adaptor both subframe holes need to be elongated until the bolts go into the adaptor plate. On with the pics.    Oh, yes this is my hot rod.

 

 subframe nearside.jpg   55.46K   31 downloads

 subframe offside.jpg   51.9K   25 downloads

Edited by Mini-Hazel-Nut, 21 February 2017 - 10:31 PM.

[tiger99]

Interesting! It is both width and hole spacing. I am glad it is resolved.

The actual mounts normally used on auto and manual boxes are supposedly different. There would be a good reason for that. Maybe the hole spacing was changed to prevent anyone from fitting the wrong mounts? That may also explain why a number of people some time back had mounts that would not fit. Auto being supplied instead of manual. Naughty supplier, whichever it was.

[nollyd]

Hi just done auto to manual change.spacers are both side of subframe.

[Mini-Hazel-Nut]

Hi just done auto to manual change.spacers are both side of subframe.

Very true as I found out today when I fitted mine. Illustrated is the rad end mounting with spacer block in place. I did the clutch end first and believe me I sweated blood getting this one done up due to the need for pre-loading the mounts. I finally had to squash the engine and mount further down into the frame using a G clamp with a smaller clamp holding the large one in place. With much bad language I finally got the bolts to "take" and screwed them up, phew! The bolts supplied in the kit are 1 inch length and this is not enough, 1 1/4 inches is just right.

 Engine mount.jpg   77.69K   14 downloads

[nollyd]

totally agree,well worth it tho.