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Engine Running Hot Or Something Else?


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#16 Sprocket

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 03:09 PM

I think you already know where the problem lies since you never had a temp problem before you did this voltage regulator mod and now you do, afterwards. I've never heard the need for this modification, except on older cars.

 

I was always led to believe that if a new fuel level sender did not read full when the tank was, you had to bend the wire arm to  make it read right. It is worth checking the sender full range does show the gauge also full range before installing it. do remember that new parts are not original parts and reproductions are not always equal.

 

If the regulator modification you are talking about can be undone, do so and see if your temp issue goes away, you may be chasing a red herring.



#17 systemcp

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 04:23 PM

The ring spanner was around the sender then earthed. My croc clip jaws were not wide enough for the sender

The fuel guage only read half even though full so I followed this guide http://www.theminifo...tage-regulator/

I have a Nippon set of clocks. I can't find anyone saying that it's caused them issues.

If I remove the voltage regulator the temp will always read cold and fuel half full despite the tank being brimmed. The arm is correctly bent. I did that trouble shooting prior to the voltage mod.

I can't trust it without the regulator/stabiliser as it does not seem to be reading correctly but I can't trust it with. If with the new sender I get the same result I'm hoping that means I then have to look back at the guage and the voltage fix.

Edited by systemcp, 23 February 2017 - 04:46 PM.


#18 systemcp

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 07:51 PM

Quick update tested voltage stabiliser / regulator. 12.40v in with 9.80 out so that's functioning correctly.

#19 tiger99

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 11:13 AM

There are too many variables here. The instrument may have been designed to use the raw 12v supply, not a regulator. The particular brand of gauge may need a different sensor to what is on the Mini. Etc. As I may have suggested, the entire area is a mess of non-standard things. One thing is sure, adding a resistor in line will make the gauge read lower at the top end and may be a suitable fix.

I do wish that everyone woukd work to the same standards so this kind of problem would go away. But that is a bit late for the Mini.

On modern engines we are using NTC thermistors as sensors for some things, as on the Mini, but those that need to be far more precise use Platinum Resistance Thermometers, which are not as expensive as the name suggests, as the quantity of platinum is tiny. They are very stable and accurate but need a more complex gauge to get the best out of them. One day I will get around to designing the proper thing. I can't use my previous high accuracy design as it does not belong to me.

Actually a comprehensive temperature system with coolant, oil, exhaust, inlet air, and a few other parameters would not cost much more than a single gauge. It could include fuel too. Some digital dashboards do some of that, but not necessarily very well. Some people may want brake temperatures, and maybe even hub bearings to warn of imminent failure (in view of the Chinese junk being passed off as proper bearings).

None of this will help with the immediate problem, but I do think that there is a future for reliable instrumentation in keeping our favourite cars running well.

#20 systemcp

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 07:04 PM

Solution found it was the sender. I had part GTR101 fitted went to rimmer bros in Lincoln and they had some old unipart GTR143 senders in stock. Fitted and now at 64c it reads halfway.

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